welded rear, how hard is it on axle shafts

[2badfjs]

gonna put 60 axles under the 40
put the lock right up front and weldd up the rear.
this will be driven on the road every now and then.
how much stress will the rear axles have on the street?
this will prolly be run 35% street and 65% trail.
and will drive to the trail more than be trailer'd

thanx
jim

BTW, i'll be running 36" iroks

 

[Mark W]

There is some additional strain on the axles, but not enough to give any thought to. The tires slip on the pavement at levels of stress far below the normal amounts that the axles handle routinely.


Mark...

 

[Isotel]

arent you the guy who broke a 60 shaft in a parking lot ,

i ran the hell out of my welded rear on my 40, eventualy the welds broke loose..

i ended up with an aussie. its better on my $$ tires

 

[2badfjs]

arent you the guy who broke a 60 shaft in a parking
lot ,


SHAD UP!!


i ran the hell out of my welded rear on my 40, eventualy the welds broke loose..

did you weld them yourself

i ended up with an aussie. its better on my $$ tires

no $$ for a locker, but i have welding wire

 

[Poser]

Burn it and move on...


It will work great until it fails.

 

[Man Jerk]

I could be very wrong, but to me it seems like there would be less shock load on the axle shafts compared to an auto locker.

 

[bigbluefj]

i've been running welded for 4 years took it out for a while then put it back in because the locker i got did not last so the welded went back in and had no problem's..

kevin

 

[2badfjs]

good info,
besides woody's write up, anyone have any more info on "how to"
i did try to search last night, but failed.

thanx
jim

 

[Mark W]

I don't mind the (dry) road manners of a welded rear under a light rig such as a mini-truck. But under a '60/62 series I really don't like it at all. Lots of push in the corners and tire scrub/squeal.
Regardless of what many others may say, I have no problems with a welded rear on snow/ice. Under a heavy or a light rig.


Mark...

 

[woody]

I've yet to break a rear axle shaft, or the welded center....shocker, considering all the other stuff I break....lol

 

[2badfjs]

Good info guyz.

woody, your last update on welding your diff, what you did different was weld the spiders together right?
the first time you welded the spiders to the carrier case?

question: do i want to weld it both ways or just the spiders?

another q: do i want to turn the heat up on my welder to get a good burn, those gears are hardened right?

jim

 

[woody]

spiders to side gears...IMO, welding to the carrier is a waste of time...pre-load the gears too, as shown in my pics...filling is as important as heat....

 

[2badfjs]

spiders to side gears...IMO, welding to the carrier is a waste of time...pre-load the gears too, as shown in my pics...filling is as important as heat....

i know to put the center pin in, but by pre-load do you mean have some axle shafts in the side gears with maybe some twist in them or load?

what would you clean the diff with to prepare it? brake cleaner?

i'll just be using flux core wire and spray the snot out of carrier with anti-splater, then wash it out in a parts cleaner at work.

thanx
jim

 

[woody]

pffft...that's more cleaning than I did....lol

brake cleaner works...

If you check my pics, I believe I show the carrier with a couple short-shart rears in it...yep, just checked...the updated pics show a breaker bar in there, you want to pre-tension things to ensure the sides/spiders are as tight to the case as possible...

 

[2badfjs]

very cool, thanx

when i find time i'll get on it.

 

[Gumby]

pffft...that's more cleaning than I did....lol

brake cleaner works...

If you check my pics, I believe I show the carrier with a couple short-shart rears in it...yep, just checked...the updated pics show a breaker bar in there, you want to pre-tension things to ensure the sides/spiders are as tight to the case as possible...

I'm pulling the welded rear and brand new aussie out of the pig for elockers. I might regret it as I never had a bit of problems with the welded rear. The only issue I had with the aussie was that I broke a birf for the first time with it.

I did the Woody method and it worked great.

You need to be careful with degreasing the gears with brake clean. I went as them a bit too soon with the welder and created a whole bunch of chlorine gas. That stuff burns when you breathe it. That's assuming you're using Chlorine brake clean instead of flammable brake clean.

 

[2badfjs]

Q:gumby..You need to be careful with degreasing the gears with brake clean. I went as them a bit too soon with the welder and created a whole bunch of chlorine gas. That stuff burns when you breathe it. That's assuming you're using Chlorine brake clean instead of flammable brake clean.

excellent advice, thank you!

i'll make sure i wait till i start welding.

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Use the flammable kind of brake cleaner, and then light it all on fire. It will burn off really quickly and leave you w/ clean gears. Friend of mine does that as "standard procedure" before welding diffs. He's welded literally dozen's of diffs w/ no failures to date.

Ary

 

[JRFJ4-]

Lots of weld

We put alot of welds on ours. We use mig because getting flux from between the gears is difficult.

We weld everything we can get to.

JR

 

[Isotel]

you want to pre-tension things to ensure the sides/spiders are as tight to the case as possible...

I missed this.. mine broke apart eventualy, and we welded the piss out of it, Spiders to eachother, In the cracks between the gears, then the gears to the carrier, all with a nice milermatic 175,