- Thread starter
- #121
Working space is so limited in there by the input but on the cooler - great idea cutting a big wrench down. I guess somebody else in your thread must have talked about the method I described. Either sounds pretty good though.
Builds Welcome home Matilda - faded like your favorite pair of jeans
- Thread starter CruiserTrash
- Start date
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Just read everything up to this point. Good work @CruiserTrash Matilda will be cruising in no time!
I won’t be able to make SAS this year. Wish I could. Would be cool to get our trucks together to sniff tail pipes. I’m overdue on repairs from last SAS still. Lol
Oh and the wheels on Matilda look a lot like trailer wheels. I’d check them to make sure they are safe.
I won’t be able to make SAS this year. Wish I could. Would be cool to get our trucks together to sniff tail pipes. I’m overdue on repairs from last SAS still. Lol
Oh and the wheels on Matilda look a lot like trailer wheels. I’d check them to make sure they are safe.
- Thread starter
- #123
@klinetime574 As I recall you have a pretty new little kiddo at home, right? That's the priority and it'll keep you very busy, but I'm sure you'll be back to Ouray with the pipsqueak soon enough. It would be cool to get the pair of Light Metallic Blue (861) trucks together one day, though. You don't see that color very often. Maybe if I ever drive it back to Toledo to visit my folks.
What do you mean trailer wheels? I didn't know there was a difference in wheel construction for a vehicle versus a trailer. FWIW, the PO said the wheels were on it when he got it in 2004 so they've been holding this thing up for a while. They are 15 by probably around 8 or so with 33x10.5x15 KO2s. Worst case scenario, I have the mom-and-pop tire shop up the street from me swap the KO2s over to my OEM wheels. That might be better anyway since I have 5 OEM wheels (matching spare) but only 4 of these things.
What do you mean trailer wheels? I didn't know there was a difference in wheel construction for a vehicle versus a trailer. FWIW, the PO said the wheels were on it when he got it in 2004 so they've been holding this thing up for a while. They are 15 by probably around 8 or so with 33x10.5x15 KO2s. Worst case scenario, I have the mom-and-pop tire shop up the street from me swap the KO2s over to my OEM wheels. That might be better anyway since I have 5 OEM wheels (matching spare) but only 4 of these things.
@CruiserTrash Yes I’ve got a new pipsqueak at home. She’s 4 months old now. She’s the best. I find time to work on the Cruiser when I can.
My basic understanding of trailer wheels is that they don’t see the same loads as a car/truck. For example trailer wheels don’t turn left and right. Some people run them. I wouldn’t though. I’m guessing markings on the inside would be the only way to tell. Now don’t forget I could be wrong here.
My basic understanding of trailer wheels is that they don’t see the same loads as a car/truck. For example trailer wheels don’t turn left and right. Some people run them. I wouldn’t though. I’m guessing markings on the inside would be the only way to tell. Now don’t forget I could be wrong here.
- Thread starter
- #125
Rods ends and damper IN. Check another one off the list.
- Thread starter
- #126
@klinetime574 ding ding ding! Trailer wheels! On the inside lip is stamped “MADE IN USA 15x7 LCID JJ DOT CT&W 07 18 2016”
That tells me a couple things. First, these did not come with the truck in 2004 when PO bought it - they were made in 2016. Second, and most important, is “CT&W”. As best as I can tell that means Carlisle Tire and Wheel, a company that makes TRAILER wheels, along with riding lawnmower wheels and agriculture wheels. Looks like I’m going back to OEM. Thanks for you hunch Alex.
That tells me a couple things. First, these did not come with the truck in 2004 when PO bought it - they were made in 2016. Second, and most important, is “CT&W”. As best as I can tell that means Carlisle Tire and Wheel, a company that makes TRAILER wheels, along with riding lawnmower wheels and agriculture wheels. Looks like I’m going back to OEM. Thanks for you hunch Alex.
- Thread starter
- #127
After the steering rods went back in tonight I tightened up all the suspension nuts. Good lord, I’m glad I did. Several were finger tight or spinning free, and one was backed off half an inch. 
I swear PO did zero maintenance. He didn’t take it anywhere to have maintenance done for him either.
The front is a shackle reversal that looks to be old Man-a-fre weld-in plates. The rest is mostly old Australian-made Old Man Emu that appears to be holding up well. Almost every nut and bolt is a different size though which is frustrating. Everything is torqued to spec now and I’ll feel a hell of a lot safer driving this thing.
I swear PO did zero maintenance. He didn’t take it anywhere to have maintenance done for him either.The front is a shackle reversal that looks to be old Man-a-fre weld-in plates. The rest is mostly old Australian-made Old Man Emu that appears to be holding up well. Almost every nut and bolt is a different size though which is frustrating. Everything is torqued to spec now and I’ll feel a hell of a lot safer driving this thing.
- Thread starter
- #128
Switched the KO2s to a set of five OEM wheels and bolted them up. All four feet are back on the ground! The front shackle reversal definitely adds height in the front - I’ll most certainly do an add-a-leaf to each rear pack if I get time before SAS.
Had a piece of the carb break in shipping so a new base is en route, then it’s time to see if she’ll run
Had a piece of the carb break in shipping so a new base is en route, then it’s time to see if she’ll run
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- Thread starter
- #129
All engine bay hoses replaced - vacuum, PCV, etc. Doing fuel hoses tonight. Anybody know which hardline stub is which? I.E., send versus return?
Closer every day.
Closer every day.
- Thread starter
- #130
Humpty Dumpty is back together. Thanks to @mattressking for walking me through how to swap a carb base and all the linkages.
Got the transmission fill plug busted loose tonight, big win. I’ve been fighting that for a month. Now all the fluids will be fresh.
I tried to get the truck started - today was the day I thought - but I’m not getting fuel flow. I’m running out of a Jerry can, to a new fuel filter, to the pump, to the carb. Before I tore the engine down I did it the same way and had no problem getting flow. I removed the pump and it seems to work like it should. Talked to @RDub tonight and he suggest taking the return line from the pump and putting it in a container to see if fuel is being pushed that way. But I don’t even see any action at the fuel filter….
I have all weekend with the truck so hopefully it’s locomoting under its own power by Sunday night. We’re close.
Transmission fill plug:
Got the transmission fill plug busted loose tonight, big win. I’ve been fighting that for a month. Now all the fluids will be fresh.
I tried to get the truck started - today was the day I thought - but I’m not getting fuel flow. I’m running out of a Jerry can, to a new fuel filter, to the pump, to the carb. Before I tore the engine down I did it the same way and had no problem getting flow. I removed the pump and it seems to work like it should. Talked to @RDub tonight and he suggest taking the return line from the pump and putting it in a container to see if fuel is being pushed that way. But I don’t even see any action at the fuel filter….
I have all weekend with the truck so hopefully it’s locomoting under its own power by Sunday night. We’re close.
Transmission fill plug:
- Thread starter
- #131
I also borescoped the gas tank. The thing is full to the filler neck. What the hell do I do with 24+ gallons of 4 year old gas??
- Thread starter
- #132
Swapped the fuel pump from the tomato truck into Matilda, and after a little trial and error adjusting the dizzy …. SHE’S ALIVE.
Needs a tune, but it’s running!
Needs a tune, but it’s running!
Stand at the side of the road with a sign that reads “FREE GAS” <—LARGE PRINT
(4 years old) <—fine print
Pics or it didn’t happen. What was up with the dizzy? Off a few degrees?
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- Thread starter
- #134
Dude, that’s brilliant!
FREE GAS - 24 GALLONS
(4 years old)
I bet I can make it disappear tomorrow morning.
Tank is now drained - 14 gallons came out even though I could see gas in the filler neck. Weird. It’s in Home Depot buckets so I hope those hold.
Unfortunately I can’t post a video here, but I did put one up on my Instagram. I wasn’t able to set timing or tune the carb. I was sucking gas from a Jerry can, but the return line was feeding back to the tank causing it to pressurize and gas was coming out the filler and the pinched off fuel send line in the engine bay. I had to stop and solve the “tank full of bad gas issue” which involved going home to eat dinner with the wife and a trip to Home Depot. Some of the gas that came out had crud in it (worst one shown). I did scope the inside of the tank and it looks clean, though.
It’s now got 10 gallons of fresh gas and is ready for the morning.
FREE GAS - 24 GALLONS
(4 years old)
I bet I can make it disappear tomorrow morning.
Tank is now drained - 14 gallons came out even though I could see gas in the filler neck. Weird. It’s in Home Depot buckets so I hope those hold.
Unfortunately I can’t post a video here, but I did put one up on my Instagram. I wasn’t able to set timing or tune the carb. I was sucking gas from a Jerry can, but the return line was feeding back to the tank causing it to pressurize and gas was coming out the filler and the pinched off fuel send line in the engine bay. I had to stop and solve the “tank full of bad gas issue” which involved going home to eat dinner with the wife and a trip to Home Depot. Some of the gas that came out had crud in it (worst one shown). I did scope the inside of the tank and it looks clean, though.
It’s now got 10 gallons of fresh gas and is ready for the morning.
- Thread starter
- #135
SHE’S HOME! Drove her from my shop back home today and she ran great. The brake work is a huge improvement over the tomato, same with flushing the clutch fluid. Carb tuning has been by ear because the tach is stuck at 2600, so I need to get that dialed. But it does all the things a cruiser should. Even just having power steering again after two years is a joy.
More work though:
Figure out the stuck tach
Figure out why the temp reads low
Do lean drop again with tach
Chase suspension clunk
Add leaves or Longer shackles to the rear spring packs to level (Shackle reversal up front adds some height)
Swap over some Tomato stuff (rear bumper, rack, sliders, Koito headlights, fresh alternator, bigger ground wires, 4Runner wiper arms, maybe the head unit)
Install upper rad hose temp gauge, vac gauge, and if so have enough time the A/F gauge - also from Tomato
We leave 7/28 for a big trip that includes SAS. I don’t have a lot of time, but maybe just enough.
More work though:
Figure out the stuck tach
Figure out why the temp reads low
Do lean drop again with tach
Chase suspension clunk
Add leaves or Longer shackles to the rear spring packs to level (Shackle reversal up front adds some height)
Swap over some Tomato stuff (rear bumper, rack, sliders, Koito headlights, fresh alternator, bigger ground wires, 4Runner wiper arms, maybe the head unit)
Install upper rad hose temp gauge, vac gauge, and if so have enough time the A/F gauge - also from Tomato
We leave 7/28 for a big trip that includes SAS. I don’t have a lot of time, but maybe just enough.
- Thread starter
- #136
Tach fixed. Swapped over another from a donor gauge.
With a functioning tach I did a lean drop on the carb. Motor sounds great.
Swapped over the swing arm bumper.
Now the back end really sags. I found some 6” shackles locally so I’ll put those on. It might be worth adding a leaf but now I’m not so sure the springs are OME … there’s a half torn off “Made in Canada” sticker. I wonder if my spare OME leaves would fit anyway.
Still chasing the squealing sound at 2k rpm. I’ll swap over the new-ish smog pump and alternator from the tomato and then try again. If it’s still happening I’ll methodically take off each belt one at a time and run it, see what I get.
Feeling a lot better about the progress tonight. Gotta keep pushing - we leave in 8 days.
With a functioning tach I did a lean drop on the carb. Motor sounds great.
Swapped over the swing arm bumper.
Now the back end really sags. I found some 6” shackles locally so I’ll put those on. It might be worth adding a leaf but now I’m not so sure the springs are OME … there’s a half torn off “Made in Canada” sticker. I wonder if my spare OME leaves would fit anyway.
Still chasing the squealing sound at 2k rpm. I’ll swap over the new-ish smog pump and alternator from the tomato and then try again. If it’s still happening I’ll methodically take off each belt one at a time and run it, see what I get.
Feeling a lot better about the progress tonight. Gotta keep pushing - we leave in 8 days.
- Thread starter
- #137
Smog pump and alternator have been swapped over from the tomato - both rebuilt in the last year. I tensioned the belts a little looser per a chat with @HemiAlex too (I hate tensioning belts). Whatever I did, the noise at 2k rpm is gone, and now I can really drive this thing.
I ripped apart the factory battery+ lug tightening the bolt back up. The metal had just fatigued too much over time and the whole thing tore in half. I stole the fat starter cable @Fourrunner made me, a fusible link I had with a ring terminal on it, and a heavy duty terminal from the tomato and put it all on so I could drive. I feel like tomato is looking pretty sad right now since it’s getting raided for parts. She’ll go back together eventually though.
I ripped apart the factory battery+ lug tightening the bolt back up. The metal had just fatigued too much over time and the whole thing tore in half. I stole the fat starter cable @Fourrunner made me, a fusible link I had with a ring terminal on it, and a heavy duty terminal from the tomato and put it all on so I could drive. I feel like tomato is looking pretty sad right now since it’s getting raided for parts. She’ll go back together eventually though.
reddog90
SILVER Star
Our support line.
- Thread starter
- #139
Here’s where I’m at with the SAS prep list. There are still a few tedious tasks left, like bringing the rear suspension up, and sorting the lighting and radio electrical. Stuff like a coolant flush and knuckle rebuild will happen this winter.
***
CHASSIS
lube all suspension
Lube drivetrain
Lube rear u-joint
Tighten all suspension
BRAKES
2x calipers
2x front hoses
2x new backing plate hardlines
2x new mid hoses
Flush & fill fluid
FRONT END
tie rod ends
Stabilizer
REAR END
Longer shackles
Add a leaf?
FLUIDS
Front diff
Rear diff
Transmission
Transfer case
Clutch
ENGINE
Manifolds & gasket
Side cover & gasket
carb base plate
Carb
EGR
Vac hoses
Spark plug wires
Dizzy + o-rings
PCV and misc hoses
Fuel pump
Acceleration lag?
MISC (mostly swap from tomato)
Tighten antenna
Wiper blades
Rear swing arm bumper
Buy 5th tire (Discount)
Roof rack
Koito Headlights
Aux lights
Front bumper + lights + winch
Mirrors
Sliders
Alternator
Smog pump
Visors
Gas cap
Battery
Corner lenses
Radiator cap
Key copies
INTERIOR
vacuum
Clean
Floor mats
Install stereo
Lift gate struts
Horn pin & ring
Swap steering wheels
Remove cruise control
Seat bumpers
Clean grounds
Dash LEDs
Fix tach
***
CHASSIS
Lube drivetrain
Lube rear u-joint
Tighten all suspension
BRAKES
2x front hoses
2x new backing plate hardlines
2x new mid hoses
Flush & fill fluid
FRONT END
Stabilizer
REAR END
Longer shackles
Add a leaf?
FLUIDS
Rear diff
Transmission
Transfer case
Clutch
ENGINE
Side cover & gasket
carb base plate
Carb
EGR
Vac hoses
Spark plug wires
Dizzy + o-rings
PCV and misc hoses
Fuel pump
Acceleration lag?
MISC (mostly swap from tomato)
Wiper blades
Rear swing arm bumper
Buy 5th tire (Discount)
Roof rack
Koito Headlights
Aux lights
Front bumper + lights + winch
Sliders
Alternator
Smog pump
Visors
Gas cap
Battery
Radiator cap
Key copies
INTERIOR
Clean
Floor mats
Install stereo
Horn pin & ring
Swap steering wheels
Remove cruise control
Seat bumpers
Clean grounds
Dash LEDs
Fix tach
Good progress! I’m planning to work on mine tomorrow. I’ll be at SAS in spirit!
AFAIK the rear shackles to match the SR up front would be pretty long. I wanna say my rear shackles are 3-5/8” pin to pin. Don’t quote me on that. The old rule of thumb is if you increase shackle length by 1” you would gain 0.5” lift. Just LOOK at the image MAF has on their website of the rear shackles. They’re monsters. I say just drive it as is and order those shackles for replacement at a later date.
AFAIK the rear shackles to match the SR up front would be pretty long. I wanna say my rear shackles are 3-5/8” pin to pin. Don’t quote me on that. The old rule of thumb is if you increase shackle length by 1” you would gain 0.5” lift. Just LOOK at the image MAF has on their website of the rear shackles. They’re monsters. I say just drive it as is and order those shackles for replacement at a later date.
