For what it's worth, running significantly low on oil will wipe out bearings WAY before the engine gets a chance to overheat from lack of lubrication. Also, subscribing for updates.
Builds Welcome home Matilda - faded like your favorite pair of jeans
- Thread starter CruiserTrash
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Looks good to me. One trick that is commonly used to remove some build up is to add a quart of ATF to your oil for a few hundred miles and then change the oil. I did this however I just let it idle for a half hour instead of driving it. The dipstick showed slightly dirty oil before I added the ATF and after it ran for a half hour it was filthy black.
I didn't look under the valve cover before performing this 3 different times, but when I did pull the valve cover last week, it was damn near spotless, as was my oil pan. I don't like the idea of driving it with an extra quart of ATF but I can't see the harm in letting it idle a bit before changing the oil. Just my two cents....
Also, I still don't think you have a cracked block.
I didn't look under the valve cover before performing this 3 different times, but when I did pull the valve cover last week, it was damn near spotless, as was my oil pan. I don't like the idea of driving it with an extra quart of ATF but I can't see the harm in letting it idle a bit before changing the oil. Just my two cents....
Also, I still don't think you have a cracked block.
- Thread starter
- #83
This is good to know. I did have it running (rough) and didn't hear anything concerning from the lower end, although I wasn't driving the truck or putting it under load. More info will reveal itself.
@77CruiserDog I gave heard the ATF trick. There are other products out there that are specifically made for that too - like a pre-oil-change cleaner sort of thing. When I get this thing put back together, you bet your ass I'm gonna run about a case of seafoam through the intake too. Eventually it'll probably get the refurbed head plopped on top, but for now I'll clean up what's there.
Awesome... I like seafoam in the gas tank. I've run about 10 tanks of it through Falcor when I first started driving it. I noticed two things, smoother idle after a few tanks of it and less propensity to ping under light throttle. This leads me to guess that it may have cleaned some of the carbon off valves and pistons.... maybe. I figured it's not expensive and I can't see the harm. I like the slower cleaning process of putting it in the tank vs the faster application of it in the intake. Again, just an opinion.
ATF is the most agressive cleaning solution I feel comfortable using in a crank case. I can't see the harm in putting 1 quart in and idling it for 30 minutes before an oil change. It's my opinion that a pre-oil change sort of cleaner has a higher potential to do more harm than good. I worked at an Acura dealership where I witnessed the potential benefits of running a quart of ATF in an engine for a short time to clean lifters and by proxy anything the oil touched.
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- #85
Been a minute. Had some big deadlines at work and couldn’t get up to the shop to work on Matilda.
I’ve been fighting with the cork side cover gasket, so there’s that. I think brute force and chemicals will be the answer. I found no cracks behind the cover, but there was some sludge in the low areas just like on the head.
On to the manifolds. I got the RTV cleaned off and mated them to the head with no gasket. I went 1/4 turn past finger right on the bolts. The manifolds are mostly tight to the head except a few spots where I can get my smallest feeler gauge started - 0.011.
FSM states to use a straight edge on the manifolds and have no more than 0.020. Obviously my test procedure isn’t the same - I don’t have a good straight edge. So … look good or not?
I’ve been fighting with the cork side cover gasket, so there’s that. I think brute force and chemicals will be the answer. I found no cracks behind the cover, but there was some sludge in the low areas just like on the head.
On to the manifolds. I got the RTV cleaned off and mated them to the head with no gasket. I went 1/4 turn past finger right on the bolts. The manifolds are mostly tight to the head except a few spots where I can get my smallest feeler gauge started - 0.011.
FSM states to use a straight edge on the manifolds and have no more than 0.020. Obviously my test procedure isn’t the same - I don’t have a good straight edge. So … look good or not?
Cautiously optimistic on behalf of you and Matilda...........
PS - I think I know what Matilda's theme song could be once she's back to running well.......... Live to Rise. Good 'n loud.
Kathryn and Kaylee
PS - I think I know what Matilda's theme song could be once she's back to running well.......... Live to Rise. Good 'n loud.
Kathryn and Kaylee
That will measure how evenly your manifold is torqued in some respects, but there's nothing in the FSM that has you measure that. If either (or most likely both) have any warp in them, you're only measuring the evenness of gasket crush.
The measurement I think you're referencing is for manifold & cylinder head flatness.
- Thread starter
- #88
Indeed what I’m doing is a subjective measurement. I don’t have an engineer’s-grade straight edge.
I guess let me back up: how would I know if the head or manifolds are warped, and along which axis would the head warp? Engineer’s straight edge is my thought on the answer to that question, but I’m play-acting at mechanic here. Any and all advice welcome before I start bolting things up with a gasket in there.
The faces are usually going to distort the most where the bolts are pulling. It won't be a line, rather peaks where the studs protrude. The metal will creep over time too, but that shouldn't be as pronounced if it hasn't been overheated.
I wouldn't worry about an "engineer grade" straight edge. Get a metal straight edge from HD/lowes & measure. If you have over .020 gaps, it needs to be resurfaced (and a machine shop with more precision tools will dive into that circus). Otherwise, throw a Toyota or Remflex gasket in there & run it.
Plus one for Remflex. Used it on both cruisers with awesome results.
- Thread starter
- #91
Took the last two days off work anfter putting in overtime last week and got a lot of miscellaneous stuff done around the shop. I’m still aiming to get this motor running as is, but I painted the refurbed head in the meantime.
Yes, it’s very, very gold. The inspiration was a photo of a Jag E-Type motor I saw in another forum - that photo is below. It’s pretty ridiculous looking on its own, but it really works with the rest of the motor.
Painted some brackets, coolant pipes, and the air rail. The bare metal stuff got clear coated. J-pipe has some 2000*F pewter colored ceramic spray paint. Brackets are black. The usual.
Finished scraping the side cover gasket area. What an awful job that is. This Permatex stuff helped a little. And I mean only a very little. I think I went through 30 razor blades and I have a bruise on my rib cage from leaning over into the engine bay.
I also knocked out an easy task and replaced the hood bumpers since the old ones were falling apart. Part number 53382-90K01. Really cheap.
As I was eating dinner I got a call from a friend who was moving out of his place today - his lease is up at midnight! - and needed rid of a complete 2F with all accessories. He threw in the stand and hoist too, and all told it was a good and fair deal. So now I have a lower end to rebuild, a throne for the golden head to rest on. I’ll get Matilda going as is and then build a nice shiny engine on a stand to drop in later, maybe next year. I’ll be selling all the smog equipment (I have doubles and triples already) and most if not all of the accessories, so PM me if you want something. It was a long evening of muscling this thing around, but a pleasant surprise to say the least.
Yes, it’s very, very gold. The inspiration was a photo of a Jag E-Type motor I saw in another forum - that photo is below. It’s pretty ridiculous looking on its own, but it really works with the rest of the motor.
Painted some brackets, coolant pipes, and the air rail. The bare metal stuff got clear coated. J-pipe has some 2000*F pewter colored ceramic spray paint. Brackets are black. The usual.
Finished scraping the side cover gasket area. What an awful job that is. This Permatex stuff helped a little. And I mean only a very little. I think I went through 30 razor blades and I have a bruise on my rib cage from leaning over into the engine bay.
I also knocked out an easy task and replaced the hood bumpers since the old ones were falling apart. Part number 53382-90K01. Really cheap.
As I was eating dinner I got a call from a friend who was moving out of his place today - his lease is up at midnight! - and needed rid of a complete 2F with all accessories. He threw in the stand and hoist too, and all told it was a good and fair deal. So now I have a lower end to rebuild, a throne for the golden head to rest on. I’ll get Matilda going as is and then build a nice shiny engine on a stand to drop in later, maybe next year. I’ll be selling all the smog equipment (I have doubles and triples already) and most if not all of the accessories, so PM me if you want something. It was a long evening of muscling this thing around, but a pleasant surprise to say the least.
- Thread starter
- #92
Spent most of my time yesterday chasing a t-case leak on the tomato truck, but I did knock out an easy task on Matilda: replaced long gone side markers lights. I installed them as-is for now, but I have a set of euro-spec lenses en route from the Netherlands. The bolt hole spacing is the same as the US-spec lenses, and I'm hoping the footprint is the same as the backing/bulb holder piece. Hopefully I can just swap the lenses out for some style points. If not I'll order the proper backing piece later. These will still function as side markers, even though the lenses are coming off blinkers in Europe - the laws require different things. Since the wiring of my truck isn't changing, there won't be any change in functionality.
I also finally ordered the euro-spec mirrors after driving around with the total pieces of crap (US spec mirrors) on my tomato truck. It will be nice to actually see behind me.
Engine reassembly should start in earnest this week.
I also finally ordered the euro-spec mirrors after driving around with the total pieces of crap (US spec mirrors) on my tomato truck. It will be nice to actually see behind me.
Engine reassembly should start in earnest this week.
- Thread starter
- #93
Progress has been real slow lately. It’s the end of the school year for the kids so lots of events going on. Some troubling times for my 14 year old who’s not doing great. The two biggest projects I’ve ever been given at work. Etc. life.
I’m still on the reassembly phase, and kind of stuck on the EGR system which I want to FULLY disassemble and clean. One more bit to come off and I’m good. I’m also at a crossroads with the manifold. Either use the one that came off the motor or use a spare set that will be resurfaced and rebuilt with new horns and rings and all be studs. But that would take more time obviously.
Next steps:
-EGR system back on
-Side cover back on
-Manifold back on
-Carb back on
-Try to start it
Other stuff I can get to later, but that I have parts for:
-Got my stripes from @tougenation, but need to buff the paint per the @HemiAlex method he used on Grey Gardens.
-I got a fire extinguisher mount from @NLXTACY. Supposedly scratch and dent but I don’t see a single flaw anywhere.
-Today I got a set of used Aussie-spec sliding cargo windows from Oz, apparently off a White Lightning 60. I need to find the post on the parts needed to refurb them, I saw that a while back.
-New carb baseplate from @cruiseroutfit that will go on top of the manifolds.
-Euro-spec mirrors and Euro-spec fender blinker lenses that will hopefully replace my side marker lenses - if they fit - from Cruiser World in the Netherlands.
Now I just need time or help - or both.
I’m still on the reassembly phase, and kind of stuck on the EGR system which I want to FULLY disassemble and clean. One more bit to come off and I’m good. I’m also at a crossroads with the manifold. Either use the one that came off the motor or use a spare set that will be resurfaced and rebuilt with new horns and rings and all be studs. But that would take more time obviously.
Next steps:
-EGR system back on
-Side cover back on
-Manifold back on
-Carb back on
-Try to start it
Other stuff I can get to later, but that I have parts for:
-Got my stripes from @tougenation, but need to buff the paint per the @HemiAlex method he used on Grey Gardens.
-I got a fire extinguisher mount from @NLXTACY. Supposedly scratch and dent but I don’t see a single flaw anywhere.
-Today I got a set of used Aussie-spec sliding cargo windows from Oz, apparently off a White Lightning 60. I need to find the post on the parts needed to refurb them, I saw that a while back.
-New carb baseplate from @cruiseroutfit that will go on top of the manifolds.
-Euro-spec mirrors and Euro-spec fender blinker lenses that will hopefully replace my side marker lenses - if they fit - from Cruiser World in the Netherlands.
Now I just need time or help - or both.
I hear you on busy/motivation. If I was close I’d hold a beer and bolt parts on with you.
Part of the journey for me at least is knowing there will be days or weeks where I can’t or don’t want to work on my rig.
14 can be hard, add a couple of remote learning years into the mix and it’s like throwing gas on a fire. I hope all smooths out.
Part of the journey for me at least is knowing there will be days or weeks where I can’t or don’t want to work on my rig.
14 can be hard, add a couple of remote learning years into the mix and it’s like throwing gas on a fire. I hope all smooths out.
- Thread starter
- #95
We'll get through it with my son man, and thanks for the kind words. The pandemic has really messed up so many kids - or at least gotten them off track. It'll be analyzed and discussed for decades I'm sure.
reddog90
SILVER Star
Was the scratch and dent fire extinguisher mount available online?
I’m also in Denver, and though my tool access is a bit irritating (divorce), I have a better than average collection of tools if you’re lacking something. I’ve also been through the minefield of adolescence twice in the last decade, and am setting myself up to do it again, so I’m happy to commiserate. Lemme know if I can help.
- Thread starter
- #98
EGR almost ready to put back on. I found a much less crusty cooler and didn’t break any bolts. I need to remove and clean the big J-pipe nut, assemble, and bolt it to the block. Then I can move on to the manifolds. Things should move more quickly after that.
My package from CruiserWorld in the Netherlands finally arrived. I got some Euro mirrors:
…and some Euro-spec side blinker lenses. These fit exactly into the US-spec side marker base. I took a chance and it worked.
My package from CruiserWorld in the Netherlands finally arrived. I got some Euro mirrors:
…and some Euro-spec side blinker lenses. These fit exactly into the US-spec side marker base. I took a chance and it worked.
Those look great!!! Nice work man!
- Thread starter
- #100
Oh …. Those side marker lenses will go on Matilda. I was just test fitting on the tomato since I was at home.
