Weekend in the desert 110F - the pig is not a desert rig yet

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jul 5, 2017
Threads
113
Messages
1,708
Location
Israel
new CSF RAD new everything OEM including new oil cooler blue FC mode 30K 50 ml. 2 front electrical fans it was hard for the pig to keep cool with AC blasting at some points.
measurements were done by OBD1 Toyocom and an dry skin digital thermometer.
toyota dash thermometer always less then half never moved above normal

max steady temp off road full overland load in 206-217F alarm set to 224 no alarm off road

on road mountain pass high it went to 225 for short time

I dont know what more to do, except electrical fan
in any case it is the last trip for all offroaders it is just to summer is just too hot

I arrived to the meeting point

IMG_2967.webp


my frends went to a natural pool filed by flash floods we had this year

LYBL1000.webp


i waited near the rigs and 2 new Israeli made Storm 4 jeeps arrived

army.webp


as we drove into the desert one Rubicon split rear drive shaft

we removed it and he drove lame duch 2FX4

IMG_2978.webp
 
crazy how much that looks like Yuma az. even the heat. I never see those temps and it makes me ask what all have you don't to your cooling system? I used to get that hot before I changed literally every part in the system and added an lcp fan. now, in deep sand I only get to 198 but that's with an un-modded blue hub with 20k...
 
Fought this problem on a few rigs with copper radiators. More/bigger fans, tighter clutches, bigger holes in the hood, etc, swap to an aluminum radiator, problem solved. In our local desert conditions, have never been able to get any of the copper radiators to run as cool as aluminum ones.
 
I have a new CSF radiator in my Tacoma and it's 70% larger. It's working great in high 90-100's, and fortunately I haven't had it in 110. I hate heat! Anyway, the CSF 80 series is the same size as stock, right? I started looking at that after I got the Tacoma radiator. I'm now thinking Ron Davis is the way to go on the 80. It's larger than stock.
 
IIRC, the Lead/Solder used to bond the tanks on a copper radiator makes it harder for it to shed heat. Aluminum radiators use only aluminum or aluminum and plastic tanks.
I had a guy build me a 4 row copper/brass radiator for my FJ40.. it actually made it worse! went to a cheap summit all aluminum and fixed the problem!
 
IIRC, the Lead/Solder used to bond the tanks on a copper radiator makes it harder for it to shed heat. Aluminum radiators use only aluminum or aluminum and plastic tanks.
I had a guy build me a 4 row copper/brass radiator for my FJ40.. it actually made it worse! went to a cheap summit all aluminum and fixed the problem!
My new CSF in my Tacoma is all Al.
 
whats funny is that copper is a better thermal conductor but not with gobs of lead/solder stuck to it...
 
  • Like
Reactions: RFB
@Desert Dino I also have the CSF 2517 and those engine temps you experienced on that 110* day are exactly what I’ve had with very similar ambient temps.

The CSF is definitely a well built radiator but I’m beginning to believe that I too should have gone with an aluminum unit. You can bet that when/if I do switch to aluminum it won’t have plastic tanks.
 
DD, a valley of Berachah to you!
Do the temps go way down in the evening at the desert?...looks way to hot for me I would totally whimp out...lol
 
Last edited:
Blue clutch fan with better (thicker oil) in it and secondary fan.


Bet you that Trooper never complained about high temps.
 
I think at those temps you are running at the top of the cooling systems capacity. As long as the truck isn't going over 230 - 240 then you should be good. Considering you are driving at the extreme end of the temperature scale with the a.c. on full blast while driving slowly off-road, I don't think you should expect much more.
 
Meh, we regularly see 110*+, and a properly tuned and functioning cooling system can handle it without issue. For sure if anything's not up to snuff it will immediately show, but engine temps over 205* are rare. My bets are on the copper rad, rad core clogged with crap, maybe air bypassing the core if the gaps around the radiator aren't sealed. Got shroud? Did you fill all the gaps with foam?
 
I have a new CSF radiator in my Tacoma and it's 70% larger. It's working great in high 90-100's, and fortunately I haven't had it in 110. I hate heat! Anyway, the CSF 80 series is the same size as stock, right?

I run the CSF 2517 in my 80 series ( for a bit over 4 years now). It is adequate for the conditions I encounter (mid 90's to low 100's) for 4-5 months of the year. I am not at high altitudes and not in 'desert' conditions.

BUT....I would not hold it to be the ideal radiator for all folks under all conditions. Modern aluminum radiators will cool better than a copper radiator (OF THE SAME SIZE). Its a fact too plain to require argument. And I've never made that argument. But I have argued that the all metal 2517 can be a good replacement for folks looking for certain features. (no plastic, rugged construction, easy to repair).

In the OP's case....I would readily agree with @ Tools R Us that a 'good' aluminum radiator would help provide all the cooling capacity that is possible.

As concerns Aluminum vs. Copper/Brass radiators...it is more complex than just the materials used. There is plenty on the internet to explain the differences...if anyone wants to read about it.

A Copper/Brass radiator can be made to perform every bit as well as an aluminum one...BUT it would need to be bigger and heavier.

The 'ideal' radiator for extreme conditions would be ALL aluminum with large capillary tubes and as many fins as will allow good air flow and of all welded construction.

Different conditions and needs are the reason there are 'different' builds/makes of radiators. Choose wisely!
 
Fought this problem on a few rigs with copper radiators. More/bigger fans, tighter clutches, bigger holes in the hood, etc, swap to an aluminum radiator, problem solved. In our local desert conditions, have never been able to get any of the copper radiators to run as cool as aluminum ones.

OK lets do this expriment

I am willing to throw in the garbage a brand new 600$ CSF copper radiator for this experiment and install an aluminum radiator.

@Tools R Us Can you suggest a model and a brand?

Before it will arrive in Israel, which will take time, there are 2 issues that bother me

On top of the radiator there is another element that is not OEM, the thermostat is MOTORAD 302170 {#19114504, 30270} Standard 170F

Should I change it to Toyota ???

The last issue is PO used tap water on top of that he had a PHH problem so he add tap water every day, after that he stopped using the rig and did not drive it for 3 years. Until I bought it, it was a miracle it started and worked perfectly all it needed was a new battery. When I opened the oil cooler I found a disgusting disaster see pics

fz3.webp
fz2.webp
fz1.webp


Should I flash the engine?

I use the services of one of the best off-road shops in Israel and they are against this...


 
  • Like
Reactions: RFB

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom