hey out there in mud land. I am going to install a header weber and deSmog my 2f. In particular i am interested in the desmogging process. Any advice and or step by step process would be highly appreciated. Any snags you may have had on the weber and header also...thanks.......oh yea, im also going to adjust my valves but have never done that either
weber, header and deSmog
- Thread starter mp_cude
- Start date
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Here is a start on the desmogging process:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/232036-fj60-desmog-questions.html
Valve adjustment:
Jim Chenoweth on Valve Adjustment
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/147904-jim-c-valve-adjustment-write-up.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/232036-fj60-desmog-questions.html
Valve adjustment:
Jim Chenoweth on Valve Adjustment
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/147904-jim-c-valve-adjustment-write-up.html
REKCUT
SILVER Star
I have the weber 38 and it works great and has for 5 years now, but a lot of people on this board will tell you the weber is junk. I like mine. That being said, if I did it again I might consider have Jim C rebuild my factory carb instead of switching. He is said to be a genie when it comes to carbs.
I have the header also and the only caviot to that is they can be hard to start in the cold. I would suggest the heat riser if you live in cold area
I have the header also and the only caviot to that is they can be hard to start in the cold. I would suggest the heat riser if you live in cold area
I have done two of these desmog/header/weber conversions and the results were awesome! What you're going to do is basicly strip off everything right down to the bare head with the exception of the valve cover. Get rid of the carb cooling fan. The only hoses you will have left are the fuel line and a vacuum advance hose from the carb to the distributor. Use an F gasket, not a 2F, they work better with headers. (You'll see why when you get it) The stock throttle linkage is retained. The cute little air cleaner that comes with the Weber is too small and restricts air flow, get an adapter and put on a regular, round air cleaner, I think I ended up with a 10" unit with a K&N element. I think K&N also makes the AC adapter. I live in Utah, so I had to run a fluid heat riser, made a huge difference, I made my own. The Weber is a super simple carb and will always work the same today as yesterday, unlike some other types of carbs. They use separate idle jets, one per side, accessible form the outside of the carb, and two main jets. So if you can jet a motorcycle, you can setup a Weber using the same principles. The choke is electric, find a key-on source in all the disconnected junk on the driver's side fender, there will be plenty there to pick from. There will be plastic hose nipples everywhere, thermostat housing, intake maniflod, they generally don't go through, just leave them be. Plug the EGR holes with hardware form any home store, it's pipe thread, nothing special. Gut the Air pump and crimp the tubes on the back to keep crud out. Good luck, you will like it when you're done! I ran my rig with this setup for four years and 100K (I drive alot) before putting in a Chevy 350. Not once did it flood even on the nastiest hill. Not once did it refuse to start, it never vapor locked, nothing, no surprises, just an excellent, set-it-and-forget-it carb.
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I've done the header and the desmog. But I rebuilt the stock carb. I like this combination. Can't speak for the Weber, but I (and many others) feel the stock carb is great if running properly. Typically they haven't been touched in forever and so need a rebuild.
I don't run a heat riser on my header and have never had any issues starting my 60. Starts right up every time. However, I do live in Oregon and the winters are mild in comparison to much of the country.
I don't run a heat riser on my header and have never had any issues starting my 60. Starts right up every time. However, I do live in Oregon and the winters are mild in comparison to much of the country.
brian
SILVER Star
if the carb fan is working now, there's no reason to remove it.
but as stated above, with a weber and desmogg, everything goes.
vacuum to the pcv valve, to the brake booster, and ported vac line from the back of the weber to vac advance on the dissy is it.
it makes for a very clean looking engine bay.
weber makes an adpter that allows you to retain the oem air cleaner housing. i recomend that.
the little air cleaners look cool, but the bigger one works better.
but as stated above, with a weber and desmogg, everything goes.
vacuum to the pcv valve, to the brake booster, and ported vac line from the back of the weber to vac advance on the dissy is it.
it makes for a very clean looking engine bay.
weber makes an adpter that allows you to retain the oem air cleaner housing. i recomend that.
the little air cleaners look cool, but the bigger one works better.
Have you ever run that without the air cleaner? I wonder about that massive stocker, is there power to be had by removing it? A simple run down the street with it off will tell you.
