weak 70 Brakes

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I was reading a thread somewhere about brakes and dieseldog mentioned he had the TLC calipers. Now my BJ70 stops about as fast as it gets up to speed which isn't saying much. I really have to stand on it when encountering those highways where you can do 55+ and they have stoplights. Why are these brakes so crummy in my 70? They are basically a 60 which i've had before and it stopped fine. FWIW I have a NEW OEM master and when I installed 4.11's I did a front end job and bled the brakes all the way around. Pedal is good and don't get me wrong is stops but not nearly what it should. Is it because of the vacuum assist? I have fairly good vacuum.

Dieseldog how are those TLC calipers?
 
how is the adjustment on the rear shoes?
when set up properly they should stop you very well.
cheers
 
Yeap..I've adjusted them(rear) a couple times to factory spec. Could be I have them too tight but don't they end up self adjusting?

and it stops ok.. but my 40 has much better braking power.
 
did you replace the master recently? have you tried adjusting the master rod length? do you have a siezed piston or 2?
 
I'm very used to how most cruisers brake when properly adjusted, but when I first got my BJ-73, I was quite surprised how sluggish the brakes felt. I checked everything out and although pedal feel and master and everything else seemed okay, the braking power was just not as good as I was used to. I saw an eBay auction for the TLC monster calipers and went with it. I paid less for the pair than what you might expect to pay for ONE OEM caliper and also checked the SOR price. Based on that, I bid and won. The added bonus was that I replaced the rubber flex line with a much better line supplied by TLC.

After I installed and bled the brakes, I definitely noticed improvement in braking response. The units look fantastic, bleed easier and use stock pads--what's not to like? I am even going to install a pair of Brembo cad-plated cross-drilled rotors on the BJ-73. All of this behind Tundra/Sequoia 17" double five-spoke alloys wearing 265/70R17 Nitto Terra Grapplers. As far as I'm concerned, these calipers are a great product and good value. Nothing wrong with OEM--especially if you can score some at a low price; however, if you are even thinking of buying new calipers, I'd opt for the TLC monster calipers. I like them so much, I bought another set for my BJ-42 when I noticed that my flex lines were pretty worn. New rotors, calipers and stainless flex lines for that truck too.
 
wesintl said:
and it stops ok.. but my 40 has much better braking power.

The same goes for me. My 40, which I'm selling today, seems to have much better braking power.I haven't checked my BJ's rear brakes yet, but the front pads are practically new.
 
crushers said:
did you replace the master recently? have you tried adjusting the master rod length? do you have a siezed piston or 2?

New OEM master (in first post). I could have a siezed piston but doubt it, I have good even pad wear all around. I doubt the rod length needs to be adjusted but you never know. I just think it the vacuum assist is kinda weak as compared to a booster like I'm used to on gassers.

Thanks for the first hand info on the TLC calipers dieseldog. I may go that route when there is some xtra cash or I change the pads next.
 
my truck will lock up the rear brakes like nothin and the front won't lock but it slows down pretty quick
 
Try some PBR 4wd disc pads as well.

gb
 
Hey I kind of have the same problem on my bj70.
The previous owner told me he changed the master cylinder recently.
And it looks new.
The brakes pads are even.
I tried slamming the brake down and they did'nt lock my wheel.
I don't know if it's about that vacuum assist thing or what but I'll definitely have to look on that.
 
Also tire diameter makes a huge difference, obviously. My new 33s are way harder to stop than the old 30s.

B
 
I've been thinking it's the rears... I can't get them to lock up and I seem to be fiddling with them the most. I'll have to check the rear p valve but I didn't really notice all that much of a difference when I put the OME on vs. flat stock springs and it's sagged down a tad after install. Maybe some new pistons and drum turning is in order.
 
wesintl said:
I've been thinking it's the rears... I can't get them to lock up and I seem to be fiddling with them the most. I'll have to check the rear p valve but I didn't really notice all that much of a difference when I put the OME on vs. flat stock springs and it's sagged down a tad after install. Maybe some new pistons and drum turning is in order.

Good point Bruce. Try extending the rbpv by the amount of the lift (50mm). See if that makes any difference. It did on my BJ74 when I put on the Belton.

gb
 
Thanks Bruce and Greg I'll give that a try tomorrow ;)
 
Greg_B said:
Good point Bruce. Try extending the rbpv by the amount of the lift (50mm). See if that makes any difference. It did on my BJ74 when I put on the Belton.

gb

Maybe that could improve mine. My brakes definately got worse at the same time the new springs and 33s went on,but I was never sure if there was a connection.
 
Is there a rear disc conversion for the 70s? Would it help? After the change in braking on my 42 with the 33s, I was thinking of going for the 40 series conversion, which is cheap, common, and readily available.

B
 
wesintl said:
Thanks Bruce and Greg I'll give that a try tomorrow ;)

could anyone please describe the procedure of lengthening the rpv, or maybe even take a pic? I also noticed diminished breaking in the rear after lifting the BJ70, and would like to give the valve lengthening a try.
thanks
Jan
 
I haven't lifted my BJ-73 but I do run 33" tires. I should not have had to do anything to my rear p valve given these facts. Before I even went to larger tires I had somewhat poor braking. My monster calipers helped out a bunch.
 
Boy those calipers aren't cheap though, $233 a pop. I guess that's relative in braking though. I've never had a sports car but I know braking systems aren't cheap.
 
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