weak 70 Brakes
- Thread starter wesintl
- Start date
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I just eyeballed the things and as best I can measure, it's awful close to 44mm. There are four pistons on each caliper. When I bought the calipers off eBay, the lines came with. When I called TLC to buy the second set, I bought the lines seperately--and yes, they are stainless steel braided.
With the TLCA memeber discount, I paid $233.10 per caliper and $36.00 per brake line.
With the TLCA memeber discount, I paid $233.10 per caliper and $36.00 per brake line.
crushers
post ho
Jan,Jan-78FJ40 said:
after thinking about it for a while i do remember when i put a lift on the HZJ75 is stopped like crap.
what i did was contrary to what these guys are suggesting but i agree that could be your problem.
what i did was completely eliminate the load sensing valve at the back completely and went to a 60 series setup with no load valve, now that bugger stops quick even with 35" boots on it.
go see Micheal and he should be able to help through that problem...
cheers
Thanks Wayne, I'll be over at Michaels next Saturday, learning how to do service a front axle 
Jan
Jan
Jan-78FJ40 said:
I took off the stock adjuster, temporarily put a piece of flat bar in it's place that was cut about 2" longer. The plan was to replace the stock adjusting bolt with one long enough, or have an extension welded on. That was last summer...
I really gotta get around to it one day.
Will take a picture later if you still want.
gb
Greg_B said:
picture would be nice, if you find the time.
thank you,
Jan
I either double nut'd it, or used nylocs so there would be enough free play for the bar to move. Best way would be to cut the stock adjusting bolt, and weld in an extension of 50mm. At least you will be able to adjust the ppv. I will have to complete mine...this is a good reminder, as I forgot all about it.
Thanks!
gb
Thanks!
gb
Greg_B said:
thank you!
Jan
- Thread starter
- #30
Dave, (or anyone that has a caliper handy) what's the stock piston dia?
If you do the math, you'll find that the TLC monster calipers are roughly 15% more powerful than the OEM calipers with the 41mm pistons. Assuming in both cases the same line pressure, the TLC calipers have roughly 15.16% more square inches of piston surface area acting upon the pads and being transmitted to the rotor.
It's even more of a difference if you compare with the OEM mini truck calipers. From my calculations, the TLC moster calipers have roughly 75.2% more piston surface area acting upon the pads and being transmitted to the rotor than the OEM mini truck calipers. That makes a HUGE difference in my book. Again, this assumes equal line pressure in both instances.
It's even more of a difference if you compare with the OEM mini truck calipers. From my calculations, the TLC moster calipers have roughly 75.2% more piston surface area acting upon the pads and being transmitted to the rotor than the OEM mini truck calipers. That makes a HUGE difference in my book. Again, this assumes equal line pressure in both instances.
TLC calipers give better clamping force no doubt, dieseldog. OTOH the larger pads on the 4Runner caliper and the ability to fit even larger 100 series pads gives it some advantage in terms of fade resistance. Once you can lock the front wheels at speed, caliper clamping force adds little to overall braking ability. Now imagine going down a 7 mile grade at highway speeds
Dave
Dave
- Thread starter
- #34
hijack.. do the runner calipers bolt up with the runner disk on mid 80's tlc? other mods for it to fit?
and back to the LSPV.. I was reading in the FSM that it should be bled. I don't think i did that when I bled the brakes last. HUM. I think i will add a piece of flat bar to the linkage like greg did.
and back to the LSPV.. I was reading in the FSM that it should be bled. I don't think i did that when I bled the brakes last. HUM. I think i will add a piece of flat bar to the linkage like greg did.
When upgrading to large calipers is it necessary to change the master cylinder out for a larger one too? Would adding larger calipers cause the travel of the brake pedal to increase?
Just Curious
-Noah
Just Curious
-Noah
You may or may not. Search the archives on the 60/62 Forum. Some guys say they do OK with the stock 7/8" bore master, some had to change to the Supra or 80 series master.
You can redrill the brake pedal so the booster rod mounts lower, but braking effort would increase a little.
Dave
You can redrill the brake pedal so the booster rod mounts lower, but braking effort would increase a little.
Dave
Just finished lengthening the rod on the proportioning valve. I added 4 inches, since that was the lift on my truck, and it makes a much bigger difference than I expected. breaking is much, much better, thanks for the advice!
Jan
Jan
- Thread starter
- #39
I installed a bolt through the other end. Mating them with a nut to gain another 50MM or so. It worked well and I have better pedal feel but I don't think it increased my braking. I'd say in my case I need to replace the rear pistons and turn the drums.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
With regard to the longer connecting rod for the proportioning valve. This would have the same effect as adjusting the bend in the proportioning valve rod. Has anyone found that they cannot adjust the rod enough to compensate for the lift?
Cheers,
Michael
Cheers,
Michael
