Water pump failure - how to test engine? (1 Viewer)

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I appreciate all the nice and helpful messages.

I’m going to have it towed to another shop for a second opinion. The other shop are late model Toyota specialists and recommended by others on this site. They say it’s probably shot but worth checking the pistons to see if perhaps a valve job would work.
 
My gut tells me that very minimal damaged to the piston since the engine stalled according to the OP, I have been down this rabbit hole many times and I think there is a good chance they could get away with just replacing the damaged valves and do a complete valve job. I am not familiar with the piston design on the 2UZ if they have valve reliefs on the piston or just a flat top, having relief on the piston would have very minimum or little damaged.

Just to get an idea of labor cost (book time) for a long block R&R versus cylinder head w/ valve job
Long block= 26.0 hours
Cylinder head gasket = 22 hours
Now you have to add any parts involved ang the cost of the valve job on top of the labor cost.
I had a similar situation on my E38 BMW couple years ago. For whatever reason, still not known as I did not have the time to tear the engine apart, I had a coolant leak (minimal) that we tried everything to find where it was coming from. After checking it all it got down to either head gaskets or a crack somewhere, more likely a head gasket. As it was really minimal (had to top coolant up every couple weeks - and yeah, every single coolant hose, tank, etc were replaced, pressure tested, checked 100 times - no leaks there) it did not bother me too much but I knew I had to fix that. Costs to replace the head gasket vs getting an used engine were pretty much the same. I was lucky to find an engine only four hours from me, with 28K miles on it. Paid $1000. For a damn V12! That is what is in the car now.

So yeah, here the best course of action would indeed be getting a used one and simply swapping it.
 
I appreciate all the nice and helpful messages.

I’m going to have it towed to another shop for a second opinion. The other shop are late model Toyota specialists and recommended by others on this site. They say it’s probably shot but worth checking the pistons to see if perhaps a valve job would work.
That engine someone posted off eBay for $3K looks like the way to go in case you do need a valve job. You will be able to reuse a lot of stuff from your current engine and do a full service (TB/WP/etc) before it goes in. I saw that you posted the car for sale but give it a chance! Even in that case, you will be able to sell it for much higher price given the insanity on the used market right now. Especially in the LC land!

CR
 
Thanks for the info. The VVTI engines are hard to find.
Is a tundra or sequoia VVTI as good as a LC VVTI? Is used better than reman?
 
Sad to see that you have decided to let this go. Hope you get what you are asking for.
 
@dallasag If you were any closer i would help you out getting it back on the road.
 
I’m taking offers on the car as is but still considering options.


where is it liosted?
what part of the country are you in?
 
 
Similar thing happened to my uncles 2007 TLC. A Lexus dealer had replaced the timing belt, but not the water pump. The water pump failed and sent the timing belt off and destroyed the valvetrain. He just did what the dealer told him to and paid them like $12k to put in a "new" engine. :rolleyes: I advised him to find a used one and swap it in, but he didn't listen.
 
Thanks for everyone's help. So i think we found the culprit - water pump seized up and broke the timing belt. Toyota Tech says this is not an OEM water pump. I am researching my emails to find where i told the mechanic to use OEM Toyota parts. Might anyone know what brand water pump this is? Toyota Tech says the OEM doesnt have the gap circled

Waterpump photo.jpg
 
Would very much appreciate anyone's help in identifying this brand of waterpump. Long story short, i went back and checked my records and have a very specific parts list i gave my mechanic for the 90k service and it included OEM waterpump. Mw WP seized up, broke the TB, and trashed my engine. We pulled this WP off and I am having a very direct conversation with my mechanic about this.
 
Would very much appreciate anyone's help in identifying this brand of waterpump. Long story short, i went back and checked my records and have a very specific parts list i gave my mechanic for the 90k service and it included OEM waterpump. Mw WP seized up, broke the TB, and trashed my engine. We pulled this WP off and I am having a very direct conversation with my mechanic about this.
Found it after a quick search, Gates Engine Water Pump for 1998-2007 Lexus LX470 4.7L V8 - https://www.sixityauto.com/gates-engine-water-pump-1998-2007-lexus-lx470-4-7l-v8-coolant-antifreeze-radiator-seal-bearing-2094004175.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvePRseyD8QIVkyCtBh1HfQA3EAQYEyABEgKPqfD_BwE

I do my own work but if I asked for OEM and my mechanic gave this… especially when the price difference isn’t that large.
 
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Thanks for everyone's help. So i think we found the culprit - water pump seized up and broke the timing belt. Toyota Tech says this is not an OEM water pump. I am researching my emails to find where i told the mechanic to use OEM Toyota parts. Might anyone know what brand water pump this is? Toyota Tech says the OEM doesnt have the gap circled

View attachment 2683225
Surprising it failed if it was a Gates. Its a GMB pump which make good OE and aftermarket parts.

20210618_095945.jpg
 
Surprising it failed if it was a Gates. Its a GMB pump which make good OE and aftermarket parts.

That and most Water Pumps don't 'hard fail' anyway.

More often they 'leak' for quite some time ...warning you of impending failure.

BUT....with the onslaught of fake/counterfeit parts these days, who knows if it was a genuine Gates/GMB part to begin with.
 
Sorry for the delay, but I located the brand based upon a stamp I found on the unit. It is a Autozone house brand Duralast.
 

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