Simple, I like it.
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can someone help me with the geometry on this one? i’d really like to understand it.
at the axle there is a front bushing and a rear bushing.
the instructions say “moved the rear holes in the bracket 1/4” back and up 3/8 “”.
this is talking about the bushing just behind the axle (not the forward facing one)? which picture shows this? it looks to me like at least one photo shows 1/4” back and 3/8” DOWN. also can someone remind me which way i am rotating the axle to get the caster back to stock? i want to can’t it /forward/ more than it is after it was lifted? i can’t quite visualize this and would like to.
THANKS
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shoot. i totally missed that phil. how much adjustment is here? it’s got a 2” lift phil? either way won’t the geometry be the same for all of them. i mean if you are just looking at the geometry it is 2 degree correction here for 2” lift. so if i wanted to sketch up the geometric relationship it would be like center if the rear bushing through a line at the driveline? and kevin’s “over and up” or “over and down” should let me sketch it up.If you are lifted 2" or more look elsewhere
shoot. i totally missed that phil. how much adjustment is here? it’s got a 2” lift phil? either way won’t the geometry be the same for all of them. i mean if you are just looking at the geometry it is 2 degree correction here for 2” lift. so if i wanted to sketch up the geometric relationship it would be like center if the rear bushing through a line at the driveline? and kevin’s “over and up” or “over and down” should let me sketch it up.
like 1/2” back snd 3/8 up or down should give you 2 degree adjustment or whatever adjustment this is.
thanks. roger that.I would suggest knowing what your caster reading is currently FIRST. The factory caster is 2°-4°. At 2° on a lifted 80 you are still chasing sheep when driving. At 4° your mom can drive your 80 at 80. YMMV
Sure I do understand but you need to know your starting point. All 80s are slightly different from a starting point.thanks. roger that.
i’m going to get measurements (3” lift) for caster.
i think part of what i was hoping to do was to figure out where the caster (and caster correction geometry) is coming from. meaning i wanted to draw up a diagram to see what the geometry was on the correction.
so like caster is the measurement between a perpendicular at the axle and the vertical at the axle (as best i can tell).
so the center of the three bushings are presumably in some relation to this. and the caster plates have some geometry in relation to correct it.
i /thought/ there was a thread somewhere showing this but i couldn’t find it.
do you know what i am saying? i want to draw the geometry so i can see how it is working geometrically.
seems like you could do this with the 1/2 and 3/8 if i could figure out how these holes are being adjusted.
thanks. sorry. i am being super geeky about this so it is hard to explain.Sure I do understand but you need to know your starting point. All 80s are slightly different from a starting point.
yeah. i wanted to draw up the geometry so i understand it.I don’t know exactly what you are trying to figure out. When you add longer coils to the front of an 80 series land cruiser the effect on the front suspension is the axle rotates. The bushings or plates offset this rotation to realign the axle geometry. The limitation on the realignment with bushings or the washer mod are about 1 degrees so a lift of more than 2 inches doesn’t typically get resolved with either method, but will improve things. Most OME lifts get you to about 3+ inches and would benefit more caster correction.
thank you medtro. i didn’t realize this was in a regional forum i must admit. still some of the best info out there on this topic.Suspension Geometry With Various Caster Correnction
Some time ago there was ‘that’ thread, about different options on caster correction and what each did to the front suspension. I had done up a couple of examples on CAD, and I decided to sit down one day and do up three different options. 1st is stock arms w/ either caster bushings, or caster...forum.ih8mud.comCaster Correction Options, Differences, and Opinions
First off, I do not want to start a vendor war. I want to have a nice discussion of the options for caster correction and the pros and cons of each one. We have several options when we are looking to fix our rig's on the road squirreliness after a lift. Caster correcting bushings Caster...forum.ih8mud.comCaster Question: Relative to chassis or ground?
This is probably a silly question to many of you. If this has been covered a million times already, I apologize. I've read through piles of lift threads here and haven't run across this yet, but I'll admit it may have slipped through the cracks or gotten lost in information overload. Maybe this...forum.ih8mud.com
shoot. i totally missed that phil. how much adjustment is here? it’s got a 2” lift phil? either way won’t the geometry be the same for all of them. i mean if you are just looking at the geometry it is 2 degree correction here for 2” lift. so if i wanted to sketch up the geometric relationship it would be like center if the rear bushing through a line at the driveline? and kevin’s “over and up” or “over and down” should let me sketch it up.
like 1/2” back snd 3/8 up or down should give you 2 degree adjustment or whatever adjustment this is.
OK. i haven’t seen that link. who put that together? i did see a pdf elsewhere but it is the same as the info here.Honestly I don't understand your description. If you are looking for more than 2 degrees correction without buying caster plates, then may be this is what you need. Before you ask, no I don't have any geometry . Last line says "Elongating by bolt diameter (14mm) moves caster two degrees. Four degrees change could be obtained by doing similar elongation to back mounting hole in opposite direction."
The front of the AXLE moves up, and the rear of the AXLE moves down to increase caster. The bolt (and radius arm) position in relationship to the axle would be the opposite, and seems to be moving in the pictures.
Another note is that Kevin recommended raising the rear of the axle slightly to provide clearance between the steering link and radius arms, something that at least one of the flavors of brackets is also designed to do.
Finding the degrees of rotation would require finding the actual center of rotation by comparing the geometry between the the trunion bearings and mounting points on the axle. Technically, you could get close by just comparing mounting points with level, then moving the desired number of degrees from that.
That picture is the front hole, which gets moved down to raise the front of the axle (holes are in brackets welded to axle). The text is talking about the rear holes being moved up, bringing the rear of the axle down.