WARN winch in cab controls.

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Thanks Pete. OK now for the big oversight, no neg attachment and only the motor ground equals a big learning experience- have to be honest!!! Motor is good now back to the action.....
 
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Confirmed all wires are intact with no damage, removed motor housing visually inspected the windings, brushes, etc... the best that I could. Re-installed the winch, routing a new #2 gauge wire along with the motor ground to the #1 battery and WARN remote connector. Once the install was complete I was able to confirm the motor is fine, it was my own oversight with relocating the solenoid pack and carelessly not running a #2 neg to the motor- the circuit basically had one long 16 gauge "fuse" (motor ground). Lesson learned here, I should have consulted the factory manual before and after to verify my install. Now back to the remote set-up
 
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Had a chance to work on the in cab control set up today, it is not funcitoning as of yet, but is what I have found so far....

From the 4Runner Antenna switch, which is a DPDT momentary switch, with the OEM plug attached I will reference the colors and what I am suspecting to be the correct function.

GREEN - WINCH MOTOR GROUND OR "FLOATING GROUND" (RED)
GREEN/ WHITE TRACER - SOLENOID PACK GROUND (BROWN)
RED/ GREEN TRACER - SPOOLING "IN" (GREEN)
RED/ GREEN TRACER - SPOOLING "OUT" (BLACK)
WHITE/ BLACK TRACER - 12V (WHITE)

If this information is incorrect please confirm so I may change it for those who may follow.

Thanks.
 
VanGo said:
Had a chance to work on the in cab control set up today, it is not funcitoning as of yet, but is what I have found so far....

From the 4Runner Antenna switch, which is a DPDT momentary switch, with the OEM plug attached I will reference the colors and what I am suspecting to be the correct function.

GREEN - WINCH MOTOR GROUND OR "FLOATING GROUND" (RED)
GREEN/ WHITE TRACER - SOLENOID PACK GROUND (BROWN)
RED/ GREEN TRACER - SPOOLING "IN" (GREEN)
RED/ GREEN TRACER - SPOOLING "OUT" (BLACK)
WHITE/ BLACK TRACER - 12V (WHITE)

If this information is incorrect please confirm so I may change it for those who may follow.

Thanks.
Click to expand...


You only need one side of the DPDT if you use the ground as a power disconnect otherwise what will keep anyone from winching?
 
I believe the brown WARN ground is considering "floating" and will not power the solenoid pack until grounded? I wonder if a simple body ground is adequate? Just "thinking" out loud....
 
VanGo said:
I believe the brown WARN ground is considering "floating" and will not power the solenoid pack until grounded? I wonder if a simple body ground is adequate? Just "thinking" out loud....
Click to expand...

A floating ground is not connected directly to the chassis ground. Is this case it obtain from the winch motor for safety. Switch the floating ground on a seperate switch(SPST) for safety.
 
landtank said:
you could use one side of the DPDT switch for the floating ground just to cut down on the wiring and number of switches.
Click to expand...

The purpose of the floating ground is safety, your proposal has no safety.
 
The old Warns are permanently grounded and all you do is provide hot to one solenoid or the other. The new Warns will work the same way if you run a seprate ground to the solenoid pack to bypass the floating ground. I did the latter when I switched from my old 8000 to the new 12,000.

I wired my in-cab switch with a center power leg in and when the switch is thrown it sends the power out one side or the other. I have an "arming" switch that supplies the hot in to the inbound side of the winch switch.

The reason Warn went to the floating ground was to keep a vandal from easily jumping terminals at the solenoid pack with a paper clip or the like. My pack is burried and not easily fiddled-with so I did not mind grounding it.
 
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cruiserdan said:
The old Warns are permanently grounded and all you do is provide hot to one solenoid or the other. The new Warns will work the same way if you run a seprate grouind to the solenoid pack to bypass the floating ground. I did the latter when I switched from my old 8000 to the new 12,000.

I wired my in-cab switch with a center power leg in and when the switch is thrown it sends the power out one side or the other. I have an "arming" switch that supplies the hot in to the inbound side of the winch switch.

The reason Warn went to the floating ground was to keep a vandal from easily jumping terminals at the solenoid pack with a paper clip or the like. My pack is burried and not easily fiddled-with so I did not mind grounding it.
Click to expand...

Not to confuse the original poster but only difference is you are switching the positive switching feed to coils where Im switching the negative side of the coils both providing arming safety for the in and out control.
 
VanGo said:
LCPhil-

If you would not mind elaboratingyour your approach to this in cab design...
Click to expand...

Print out the Warn wiring diagram you linked and reread post #35 to help make sense of everything. The 4Runner switch you have will work fine, you only need 3 of the wires to make the winch go in-out.
You need a reg on-off switch to switch the floating ground if your winch plug has 5 wires. If your winch plug has 3 wires(no floating ground), use the on-off switch to switch the center or common (+12) to the 4Runner switch. The on-off switch is so the winch in-out switch will not do anything unless the on-off switch is in the "on" position.
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
The purpose of the floating ground is safety, your proposal has no safety.
Click to expand...

I thought the floating ground was for not allowing operation of the solenoids by others outside the vehicle, security. Like simply jumping the 12v high amp line to the solenoid which would then trigger the winch.

My mistake.
 
Phil-

I will give this a try and report back...I am glad this thread is heading in this direction of working out this circuit and making information available to others as well.
.
 
My arming switch powers the low current circuit that triggers the solenoids.
 
LT and CDan- Thanks for your responses to this thread. Sorry to drag this out.... My biggest question is the pin out functions of the 4Runner antenna switch , 12V in, spool out, spool in, and which ground to use for the most efficient circuit. I like the idea of the floating ground and understand the "safety" aspect. I have my solenoid pack relocated above cruise control box on the PS, so wiring this circuit really does not need the safety from vandals, but more of keeping the original WARN function of the floating ground. Some pictures would really help, once I have this installed a write-up to organize this feature will follow.

Van
 
(Assuming both switches are 84-89 OEM Toyota switches)

4Runner antenna momentary switch:​

Condition /Tester Connection /Specified Conditon​

Down/Up /1,2,3 /Continuity
Position free​

Down button
Position pushed in/ 3,6 /Continuity​

Up button
Position pushed in /1,5 /Continuity​

No illumination circuit​

Basic plug configuration from switch:​

[4][3][2][1]
[7][6][X][5]​


4Runner rear defrost switch on/off:​

Condition Tester Connection Specified Conditon​

Defrost OFF/ON -3,5 /Continuity
OFF Position​

Defrost OFF/ON -1,2,3,5 /Continuity
ON Position​

Illumination circuit- 3,5 /Continuity​


Basic plug configuration from switch:​

[2][X][1]
[5][4][3]​


Wire color identification from the wire harness side as viewed in the attachments, they are as follows:​

4Runner antenna momentary switch:​

[4][3][2][1]
[7][6][X][5]​

1. Green
2. White/Black
3. Green/White
4. X
5.Red/Green
X.
6.Red/Green
7. X​

4Runner rear defrost switch on/off:​

[2][X][1]
[5][4][3]​

1. Red/Yellow (Faded white?)
X.
2. Red/Blue
3. Black
4. White/Black
5. Green​
84_89 OEM sitches 001.webp
84_89 OEM sitches 002.webp
84_89 OEM sitches 005.webp
 
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