- Thread starter
- #41
Put the other drum support on with greased thrust washer.
Warn M15000 Rebuild.
- Thread starter JDMGoodness
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
End of the day for me. Will grease up and assemble gear housing hopefully tomorrow. Have to figure out where to clock it for the ARB install. I don't want to have to remove it after.
I have the same winch and did the exact same rebuild about 4 years ago.
- Thread starter
- #45
Read the instructions for clocking the motor and the gear end.
Instructions said to clock the motor to have the terminals face back towards the vehicle by rotating motor 180 degrees. I had sealed the motor in the original position that the winch came with. Fortunately it had been put in the needed position and I didn't need to reseal the motor.
The gear end was mocked up and I have lined up where it should go. Did not want to grease and assemble the gear end and bolt it in the wrong position. I used some Fine Line tape to mark the correct orientation.
With that done I can now grease up the gear end and install the 2 new gear end gaskets.
Instructions said to clock the motor to have the terminals face back towards the vehicle by rotating motor 180 degrees. I had sealed the motor in the original position that the winch came with. Fortunately it had been put in the needed position and I didn't need to reseal the motor.
The gear end was mocked up and I have lined up where it should go. Did not want to grease and assemble the gear end and bolt it in the wrong position. I used some Fine Line tape to mark the correct orientation.
With that done I can now grease up the gear end and install the 2 new gear end gaskets.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
It's a pretty impressive rebuild. It looks like your engagement handle needs to be rotated. In its current position, it looks like it will interfere with how the winch mounts.
- Thread starter
- #47
I'll double check in the morning. I mocked it up in the ARB and reached my hand through and it seemed to be in position.
Didn't have a chance to grease it up yet anyway. I'll take a photo or two mocked up.
It has to be pointed to the front of the ARB which I think it is. Measure once and cut twice.
Didn't have a chance to grease it up yet anyway. I'll take a photo or two mocked up.
It has to be pointed to the front of the ARB which I think it is. Measure once and cut twice.
- Thread starter
- #48
Checked fitment and the clocked position.
It was correct. I moved it just to be sure and of it was obvious that changing it caused it to hit the ARB.
It was correct. I moved it just to be sure and of it was obvious that changing it caused it to hit the ARB.
- Thread starter
- #49
This is rotated one bolt hole too much.
- Thread starter
- #50
Continued on with greasing the gear end. Ran out of latex gloves but managed to finish.
I believe that I should not have greased the free spool gear/area. It does not want to free spool. Took it apart a couple times scratching my head. Took brake assembly out double checked that. Working as it should. I'm going to clean the grease from the free spool area. A few Youtube vids and other forum posts elseewhere say to not pack grease. It needs to move freely.
I believe that I should not have greased the free spool gear/area. It does not want to free spool. Took it apart a couple times scratching my head. Took brake assembly out double checked that. Working as it should. I'm going to clean the grease from the free spool area. A few Youtube vids and other forum posts elseewhere say to not pack grease. It needs to move freely.
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- #51
More pics.
Again I don't think I should have greased the free spool area.
Again I don't think I should have greased the free spool area.
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- #52
Put together before testing.
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- #53
Together but failed when the free spool would not engage. I'll take it apart and clean the grease from the free spool surfaces.
I think that you are supposed to use machine oil on the part of the free spool cylinder that slides against the gearbox housing. You are supposed to periodically re-oil the surface through the freespool knob hole, after removing the knob.
Agree on just a thin film of grease.
Slightly off topic, but I have found a magic bullet for some of this stuff where grease is too thick and oil will run out is using John Deere Cornhead grease. It's pretty amazing stuff. It will replace gear oil or grease, but won't leak out. By the case it's only a few bucks a tube.
Slightly off topic, but I have found a magic bullet for some of this stuff where grease is too thick and oil will run out is using John Deere Cornhead grease. It's pretty amazing stuff. It will replace gear oil or grease, but won't leak out. By the case it's only a few bucks a tube.
- Thread starter
- #58
Oh it's greased alright!
I'll be cleaning that off and checking operation prior to reassembly.
I'll be cleaning that off and checking operation prior to reassembly.
- Thread starter
- #59
- Thread starter
- #60
Cleaned up the grease on the outer surfaces.
Sanded down some burrs and scoring. Turns freely unassembled at this point. Going to use a little Lubriplate and button it back up.
Sanded down some burrs and scoring. Turns freely unassembled at this point. Going to use a little Lubriplate and button it back up.
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