- Thread starter
- #41
Thanks for the info and pics! 
Warn M12000 Rebuild
- Thread starter DirtaddictLC80
- Start date
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I was able to get the rewinding procedure from a very reliable source. Here's what he told me to do.
1. Hold lower cone with left hand and slide spring onto the protruding shaft. The pointy part of the spring should point up.
2. place the upper cone (narrow side down) onto the spring, putting the point of the spring in the hole on the upper cone.
3. slide the smaller circular piece with the dog ears (wings) on the splines of the shaft. Align so it fits together.
4. Clock that piece two teeth to the right (about 8-10 degrees). The dog ears of the smaller circular piece will now be offset relative to the dog ears of the upper cone.
5. put washers and snap ring back on
6. Turn upper cone 180 degrees clockwise. Hold while putting the 3 brake pad pieces around the cone.
7. While holding everything together, put the assembly back into the drum. When the drive shaft turns, it will expand the brake assembly and lock it into the drum, allowing the drum to turn with the drive shaft.
Pieces of the Brake Assembly
20130210_131745
Picture Showing Proper Offset of Dog Ears
20130208_221812
Great write up.
Just to add a further note, I have just done the same to my Warn HS9500. Exactly the same procedure with the exception of point 6 where I had to rotate 360° not the 180° (at 180° the brake would only just scrape and not hold).
It could down to a weak spring?
Worth experimenting if you dont get a brake on just one twist.
- Thread starter
- #43
Wrap Up
I thought I would wrap this project up with a post on some of the final steps I took to get this winch up and running, and installed on the truck.
While I was [very] slowly working my way through this winch rebuild project, I phoned Southeast Overland with some questions and their opinion on the accessories I needed. I talked to Steve, who was awesome and took time to explain my options. They carry some very high quality products. With Steve's help, I ended up with 100 feet of Amsteel Blue Rope with a Excel Hook. I also added a 100 foot sythetic extension line, and rounded out the order with a few Van Beest Shackles, snatch block and an offset Hawser Fairlead for my ARB Bumper. Here are the goodies.
Winch Accessories
Looking at the electric motor as I was ready to install it, I had a nagging concern that a few nicks I made in the varnish during my initial cleaning with a wire brush may have compromised it. Note to self, do not use a wire brush to clean an electric motor.
Not wanting to have gone this far, only to install a damaged motor, I went ahead and re-varnished the motor windings on the top and bottom, and also filled the spaces in the rotor area, where there had been varnish, but now was missing in some areas, exposing what looked like more windings underneath. It took a lot of taping off to get the varnish where i needed it, and not where I didn't.
If you can get away with a simple wipe down, stop there. My motor was very dirty and needed a lot more than that. After the wire brush fiasco, I had good results using a very fine grain sand paper. Anyway, here's a picture of the finished product.
New Varnish on Electric Motor
After a bench test on the motor to make sure it worked (it did), I put everything back together, noting the clocking of the gear end as well as the control box, per the direction of a previous poster (thanks iptman!). Since I was working alone, I used two ratchet straps and a jack to lift up and align the winch in the bumper. It is a VERY TIGHT fit. My biggest problem was the control box getting jammed. I probably could have removed the box and installed it after the bumper was bolted up, but I was able to get it through with some effort. Here are two pics; one showing the orientation of the clutch and control box, and the other showing installation from the font.
Top View: M12000 in ARB Bumper
Front View: M12000 in ARB Bumper
Now, that's a wrap!!!
I thought I would wrap this project up with a post on some of the final steps I took to get this winch up and running, and installed on the truck.
While I was [very] slowly working my way through this winch rebuild project, I phoned Southeast Overland with some questions and their opinion on the accessories I needed. I talked to Steve, who was awesome and took time to explain my options. They carry some very high quality products. With Steve's help, I ended up with 100 feet of Amsteel Blue Rope with a Excel Hook. I also added a 100 foot sythetic extension line, and rounded out the order with a few Van Beest Shackles, snatch block and an offset Hawser Fairlead for my ARB Bumper. Here are the goodies.
Winch Accessories
Looking at the electric motor as I was ready to install it, I had a nagging concern that a few nicks I made in the varnish during my initial cleaning with a wire brush may have compromised it. Note to self, do not use a wire brush to clean an electric motor.
Not wanting to have gone this far, only to install a damaged motor, I went ahead and re-varnished the motor windings on the top and bottom, and also filled the spaces in the rotor area, where there had been varnish, but now was missing in some areas, exposing what looked like more windings underneath. It took a lot of taping off to get the varnish where i needed it, and not where I didn't.
If you can get away with a simple wipe down, stop there. My motor was very dirty and needed a lot more than that. After the wire brush fiasco, I had good results using a very fine grain sand paper. Anyway, here's a picture of the finished product.
New Varnish on Electric Motor
After a bench test on the motor to make sure it worked (it did), I put everything back together, noting the clocking of the gear end as well as the control box, per the direction of a previous poster (thanks iptman!). Since I was working alone, I used two ratchet straps and a jack to lift up and align the winch in the bumper. It is a VERY TIGHT fit. My biggest problem was the control box getting jammed. I probably could have removed the box and installed it after the bumper was bolted up, but I was able to get it through with some effort. Here are two pics; one showing the orientation of the clutch and control box, and the other showing installation from the font.
Top View: M12000 in ARB Bumper
Front View: M12000 in ARB Bumper
Now, that's a wrap!!!
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
Thanks for the purchase and I hope you enjoy using your goodies!
- Thread starter
- #45
The winch has been on for over a year. In that time, I have only done a couple of hard pulls on it, but I re-spool the line about once a month. It still runs smooth and free-spools easily. Since I live in a mild climate, I don't think I need to change out the grease at this time, so instead I decided to do a little upgrade.
I added a battery cut off switch ( Blue Sea M-Series model 6006) and also changed out the standard 2 gauge power cables and replaced these with 1/0 gauge.
Pardon the dust...I just returned from camping in the Desert.
Winch Cut Off Switch and Winch Cable Upgrade
Winch Cut Off Switch and Winch Cable Upgrade
I added a battery cut off switch ( Blue Sea M-Series model 6006) and also changed out the standard 2 gauge power cables and replaced these with 1/0 gauge.
Pardon the dust...I just returned from camping in the Desert.
Winch Cut Off Switch and Winch Cable UpgradeWinch Cut Off Switch and Winch Cable Upgrade
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
Thanks, I got a M12000 yesterday, I think,... , seems greased and fine, wired different so thinking about testing or rewire like diagram.
Here are the manuals, very nice job to take apart (not like birfs or brake disk, tierods
)
My problem is the American size bolts, if you have Europen tools beware, allen key, bolts: all that "funny" size
Warn MIL 12000 winch PDf service repair manual:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6D936 ... xkbFU/view
Warn manual 6 page introduction:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6D936 ... sp=sharing
Warn basic guide to winching:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6D936 ... sp=sharing
Nice learning and with online help I made this test thing, I will try to repair one solenoid but the albright contractor seems the only proper way:
Here are the manuals, very nice job to take apart (not like birfs or brake disk, tierods
)My problem is the American size bolts, if you have Europen tools beware, allen key, bolts: all that "funny" size
Warn MIL 12000 winch PDf service repair manual:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6D936 ... xkbFU/view
Warn manual 6 page introduction:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6D936 ... sp=sharing
Warn basic guide to winching:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6D936 ... sp=sharing
Nice learning and with online help I made this test thing, I will try to repair one solenoid but the albright contractor seems the only proper way:
Last edited:
Great thread. Curious how noisy the m12000's are supposed to be? I bought mine new, have used it for some good hard pulls and submerged it more than a few times. It makes lots of noise but seems to work fine. Cant remember what it was like when I first installed it. Wondering if it is time to pull it ap[art for some TLC. Thanks!
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2002
- Threads
- 168
- Messages
- 5,366
- Location
- Durango, Colorado
- Website
- www.durangomagazine.com
Mine is noisey as hell. Bought it used. Opened it up to clean and regrease. It was still noisey as hell. But that was 5 years ago or more? My only real complaint is the free spool is really hard for some reason. Maybe my brake is binding a little.
I service mine every two years, if it gets submerged for any period of time it comes appart to remove any water that has gotten in and re grease.
Would rather spend $15 on seals and grease every two years than be stuck with a non working winch when it's needed.
Would rather spend $15 on seals and grease every two years than be stuck with a non working winch when it's needed.
ok thanks. I dont usually pay attention to other people's winches but had a few comments on how loud mine is....made me think its time for some TLC.
Thanks for this write-up. I also have a M12000 and a full teardown, powder coating and rebuild is on my short list. My front bumper is screaming for New powder coat and hardware, too.
Big thanks for the brake procedure. Just got me out of the pooBrake Rewinding Procedure
I was able to get the rewinding procedure from a very reliable source. Here's what he told me to do.
1. Hold lower cone with left hand and slide spring onto the protruding shaft. The pointy part of the spring should point up.
2. place the upper cone (narrow side down) onto the spring, putting the point of the spring in the hole on the upper cone.
3. slide the smaller circular piece with the dog ears (wings) on the splines of the shaft. Align so it fits together.
4. Clock that piece two teeth to the right (about 8-10 degrees). The dog ears of the smaller circular piece will now be offset relative to the dog ears of the upper cone.
5. put washers and snap ring back on
6. Turn upper cone 180 degrees clockwise. Hold while putting the 3 brake pad pieces around the cone.
7. While holding everything together, put the assembly back into the drum. When the drive shaft turns, it will expand the brake assembly and lock it into the drum, allowing the drum to turn with the drive shaft.
Pieces of the Brake Assembly
20130210_131745
Picture Showing Proper Offset of Dog Ears
20130208_221812
Just putting my M12000 back together to line up with cut outs in my bullbar. Noticed that the gearbox is now on the opposite side
Is this going to cause issues with the brake or rope direction? Or have I botched it completely?
Thanks
Back together minus motor
When I first bought it
Is this going to cause issues with the brake or rope direction? Or have I botched it completely?
Thanks
Back together minus motor
When I first bought it
1911
chupacabra
Don't know about the brake (on planetary winches), but if the direction is reversed, all you'd have to do to fix it would be to switch the field cables on the motors, or the in and out wires on the controller.
iptman
SILVER Star
I think the feet are just clocked 180 degrees off.
alia176
SILVER Star
Hmm, this thread is making me think that it's time to drop the winch and tear into it. I bought it new in '99 and never opened it up 
But, I also don't treat my vehicle like an amphibious assault vehicle and go swimming!
My M10,000 winch is also quite noisy as compared to a 9.5XP but I guess that's normal, from what I read up above. It works just fine and has never let me down.
But, I also don't treat my vehicle like an amphibious assault vehicle and go swimming!My M10,000 winch is also quite noisy as compared to a 9.5XP but I guess that's normal, from what I read up above. It works just fine and has never let me down.
I’m picking up one of these tomorrow and am planning a full rebuild. Is this procedure written down anywhere?
its pretty self explanitory. (the brake anyway.)
iptman
SILVER Star
No but I should have since I can't remember at this point. Warn sells these as an assembled unit and officially says once the brake has been removed it can't be reused. The gist is you have to preload the spring by winding it some number of times before stuffing it in. 1 and a half or 2 times around sounds familiar but I can't remember the specifics.
Edit.
I went in to my old PMs and found this from 10 years ago...
The Warn tech (who I went back and forth with about 25 times over my project) told me to put it back together and then twist the spring so it winds tighter around the shaft, about 180 degrees. Then, holding it, put the friction pieces back and shove it all in the drum.
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That's a huge help. Thank you! Any thoughts from anyone on what FIPG would be best to increase water resistance for any of the seams?
