Wanted: Pics of Lower 4-link Uppers Inboarded on a 40

[Sputnik40]

Running an offset rear about 4" longer than stock (SM420 with AA spudshaft adapter) to a stock offset axle. Has anyone managed to cram the upper frame end links inside the frame rails with minimal clearance issues?

I've been asking questions or reading build up threads from Mace, Eskimo, R.K., Woody, Bryan, LC Hamma, etc. etc. but have yet to see anyone post pics of the above with an offset output (LC Hamma - your pics link only shows the t-case or the axle side - can't see the upper link mounts? RK's is very nice - but he's got a centered output. Woody - you said you have 39" links - but no pics of how they're mounted?

Want to figure out how to make something that will have minimal rear steer.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Sputnik40]

Ok - read thru the first two and need to study up on the Pirate link guide. GF is gonna be pissed I wasted the morning on this - have to take off now and take the kiddo surfing...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/8268-starts-9.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/10213-spy-photos-spaceghost-8.html

New Version of my 4-link Analyzer & Request for Help - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

 

[LC_Hamma]

I have a few other pics in this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/ga-georgia-cruisers/169437-gotta-few-more-mods-underway.html

 

[mrqtipp]

I am in the same boat, hope the link kings respond with some pictures

 

[Sputnik40]

Thanks LC. I have very limited room on the inside of the passenger side framerail due to the offset output.

Here's what I am thinking of running to mount the frame side of the lower arms - except swapped to sit inboard. Any comments?

Frame Outriggers 4.5" [0692200] - $45.90

Still puts me at about 0 to 5 deg angle outwards to the axle mounts - but better than being entirely outboard?

 

[Mace]

Rear steer will be minimized with a doubly triangulated set of links, or a REALLY long set of lowers..


you angling your uppers or the lowers?


You could always do a Three link and a panhard bar...

 

[Sputnik40]

Rear steer will be minimized with a doubly triangulated set of links, or a REALLY long set of lowers..

you angling your uppers or the lowers?

You could always do a Three link and a panhard bar...

The uppers will be angled from the inside frame rail to the center of the top of the axle with a squared truss - axle end link tabs will be located using tabs with pre-cut 90 deg notches - so located at top front of truss.

Am trying to get the lower frame side links as inboard as possible so as to triangulate - but with the offset output there's not much room to get them inboard with a cross member without it hanging below the t-case output - which is an option but I've limited fab skills. I think using the brackets noted above I can get the angle slightly triangulated - say 5 deg with a stock Cruiser axle - and much more in the future if I ever go to one tons.

This might allow for longer lower links - but thought the goal was to try and keep them of similar length to the uppers?

Ironically - while I don't know enough about 4-links, a 3-link is even more intimidating.

Do you have a link to the frame side JJ type bushes you used?

 

[Mace]

I used the RE joints.

They are not much different than the Johnny Joints with one exception. The bushings thread together instead of using clips and varrying thicknesses of washers. Makes Assy and adjustment much easier IMHO.

Poly Performance Inc. :: Suspension Kits/Parts :: Jeep Suspension Systems :: 2004-2006 LJ Wrangler Unlimited Suspension Systems :: Rubicon Express :: Super-Flex Assembly XJ/MJ/ZJ/TJ/WJ - JK Synergy Suspension Systems, Fox Racing Shox, Beard, CTM, Joh

Lots of places sell them. Shop around for the best prices.
Considering the economy right now. A bunch of buisnesses are giving great deals.

 

[Mace]

BTW, building a good strong skidplate as a foundation for the lower links is another popular option..
Easy to slide over stuff then. And both the uppers and lowers can be fully triangulated. But the skid will have to be stupid strong..

 

[Sputnik40]

BTW, building a good strong skidplate as a foundation for the lower links is another popular option..
Easy to slide over stuff then. And both the uppers and lowers can be fully triangulated. But the skid will have to be stupid strong..

I currently have a skid plate with three 2" x about 1/8" square tubing cross members, maybe thicker (cut, angled and rewelded to wrap around the t-case) with braces between each of the three crossmembers and then reinforced with a 1/8" thick plate steel - welded to two pieces of angle iron that mount to the inside/bottom side of the frame rails. I don't consider it strong enough for lower link mounts - but honestly I should look a little closer into that. I know it would require adding some better inside frame mounting points - was thicking sleeved dom bushings, boxing the inside frame rails and using tabs. Not sure how much more reinforcement or strength would be required for the portion that the link tabs would need to connect to.

It's been strong enough to locate my track bar to - which was an FJ80 front trailing arm - which is now horribly twisted and bent.

I just hate removing the damn thing to get to the driveline.

 

[Sputnik40]

Here's the existing mess. Limited passenger side room - want to ditch the multi-purpose skid plate and build a new sleeved bushing cross member for the AA adapter tranny mount (have front engine, bellhousing and the AA pad to hold up the drivetrain), mount the frame links inboard on top of one another OR have a separate rear removable cross member for the lowers.....least that's what I'm narrowing down to.

 

[LC_Hamma]

have a separate rear removable cross member for the lowers

Too much work for that option, IMO. I tried that route but had fixed lowers to the skid Even if it was removeable, they'll hang too low unless you curve that crossmember up to the framerails, similar to what I did on my new skid. By the time you did all that you may as well just stack them similar to mine. At the closest point, my driveshaft is 5" away from my pass side lower link.

 

[Tapage]

I used the RE joints.

They are not much different than the Johnny Joints with one exception. The bushings thread together instead of using clips and varrying thicknesses of washers. Makes Assy and adjustment much easier IMHO.

Poly Performance Inc.*::*Suspension Kits/Parts*::*Jeep Suspension Systems*::*2004-2006 LJ Wrangler Unlimited Suspension Systems*::*Rubicon Express*::*Super-Flex Assembly XJ/MJ/ZJ/TJ/WJ - JK Synergy Suspension Systems, Fox Racing Shox, Beard, CTM, Joh

Lots of places sell them. Shop around for the best prices.
Considering the economy right now. A bunch of buisnesses are giving great deals.

Are those that you use Mace, better than this ones ..

Poly Performance Inc. :: Suspension Joints :: Johnny Joints® :: Forged Johnny Joints® - JK Synergy Suspension Systems, Fox Racing Shox, Beard, CTM, Johnny Joints®, Currie Enterprises, Edelbrock, Total Chaos, Ramsey Winch, Walker Evans, Wilwood, Maste

 

[Mace]

I used a forged JJ on my 60 on the upper wishbone. For the price they are hard to beat..

Better, worse, they are just a bit different.

I do not like the JJ's clip retention style. It is strong enough, just a PITA to deal with.

 

[Eskimo]

Mine, granted my upper links are higher than most because of the toploaders. All the brackets were from RuffStuff.

The lower crossmember is 2" x .250 box, recessed into the frame rails with a plate around it to spread the load.

 

[Sputnik40]

Thanks Rich. I need to go back and reread your build thread, from where your uppers are I'm assuming your rear axle is almost a couple of feet back the stock location? I'm ordering the Ruff Stuff 22 deg brackets like you have - the pic helps to see how massive they are, a pair of their inboard brackets and lots of tabs - I might be able to sqeeze in a similar 2" cross member - it'll just hang a little and will require small ramps and gussetting.

Also looks like you just triangulated your links with no angling at the mounts - and pics of JJ's in the background makes me think you have misalignment at both ends?

Damn nice - thankful am no longer married and girlfriend doesn't pay attention to what I'm doing on the 40, Series or boat - she just rides in them .

 

[Tapage]

I do not like the JJ's clip retention style. It is strong enough, just a PITA to deal with.

Thanks Mace ..

Damn nice - thankful am no longer married and girlfriend doesn't pay attention to what I'm doing on the 40, Series or boat - she just rides in them .

tha's only until you found yourself married again ..

 

[mmcinnis]

Bill, did u ever really look at my set up? I could send pics if needed.

Mike

 

[woody]

lower link bracket, upper link mount is sleeved completely thru the frame and then double-shear mounted on the inside with a tab

look thru the frame, opposite side upper mount is visible....both sides were identical....and yes, the sleeve was angled thru the frame to keep the heim as 'neutral' as possible

IMO, i had no issue fitting 39" eye-to-eye upper links in there....my mount system didn't change a bit when I switched to the centered diff in the rear, or the centered d300 tcase

 

[Sputnik40]

Bill, did u ever really look at my set up? I could send pics if needed.

Mike

Mike - Actually would help to have another look see of your profitt's kit again - have just been too embarassed to go down to your place after that last party fiasco . Crazy!

I am doing something very similar - have just been trying to improve on the lower triangulation so as to minimize rear steer, and am going to run RE or JJ's at the top - and maybe even the axle side? Otherwise - your setup rocks (more so with your switching to 60 axles).

Rather than pics - the specs on the heims you used would be cool (recollect you had 1.5" x .250" sleeved links with 1" heims?