W E L D E R S ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

[Junk]

hey junk i dont know if you know this or not-a stick/arc welder is basically a TIG and a TIg is basically a Arc welder. i am sure almost all of us have a lincoln AC/DC 225 laying around. well you can get a conversion (you still get to use both) but for about 300 bucks.

Yeah, seen a lot of guys buying those just to convert them. For what I wanted though the T/A was the way to go.

Most schools in this area either no longer offer courses or require you to sign up for like a whole year program. So just fyi, a lot of programs are being scrapped.

 

[brian]

i'm just going to sit back and watch.
there's a lot of misconceptions in here and i don't feel like correcting all of them right now.

i find it assuming how most people think dealing with metal is hard, or even better, are afraid of it.
hey, it's only metal, trust me, it can be out thought. it's really not that smart, more of like the big, tough, dumb guy.

just a few:
cast iron can easliy be welded with a stick machine

with a mig setup you can weld SS and in most cases alum as well

tig is far from hard to do, if you can stick you can tig. it is also the last thing i would use for sheetmetal.

as for a hood(helmet), huntsmen, huntsmen or if all else fails, a huntsmen. i preffer the 451P

 

[Junk]

i'm just going to sit back and watch.
there's a lot of misconceptions in here and i don't feel like correcting all of them right now.

cast iron can easliy be welded with a stick machine

No s*** dude, really? Like re-read the above and it states that stick can do cast iron - what was mentioned was that other processes would not work well with cast iron.

tig is far from hard to do, if you can stick you can tig. it is also the last thing i would use for sheetmetal.

Didn't say it was too hard to learn. It takes time and practice. If I was only doing a small patch of sheetmetal, I would use tig hands down.

huntsmen or if all else fails, a huntsmen.

uh.... NO

 

[Junk]

junk- you sound like you are on a few welding forums. about flux core. you cant beat a sheilding gas style for the cleanest welds and good prep. Flux is good for a area where sheilding gas wont quite work (windy area) but the slag and the like it producces to me isnt worth it in the "clean up" time. i like my welds just to scrape a few times and have just dust come off and with my Co2 argon mix that is what happens..........i am newvous about working with my body panels on my cruiser since its gotta be perfect :whoops:

I'm on a few. Got a great chance to test drive some blue when I was working in their product test program.

I know what you are getting at with flux core, but my comment still stands. If I had to use an underpowered machine, I would flux core it. And in some situations spray transfer is definitely superior to short circuit. Don't be nervous about working with the body panels. It's only metal. If you screw something up you just fix it.

 

[tucsonlx]

TIG is a great process for up to about 1/8 inch. Anything thicker will take quite a while to get a puddle without some preheating unless you have a pretty big machine. With a little bit of practice TIG is really easy, just like using a torch. Argon is cheap and tungsen is relatively cheep. You can weld almost anything with tig. I have a Lincoln INVERTEC 200 which is an inverter. The whole machine weighs about 40 pounds and will give 200 amps off of a 30 amp 220 circuit. Mine won't do aluminum or magnesium but I have had really good luck with titanium and stainless. It makes some very pretty welds. Now for general truck stuff I think you will be better off with MIG, it is cheaper and even easier, just not as pretty.

 

[Velocity2]

with that said-Even though TIG produces welds that could be used for art (kinda like ppl taking ppls organs and calling it art) a perfect MIG weld can be beautiful too. I am a fan of MIG and i think i might go trade in my HH180 here fairly soon for a bigger miller or a hobart ironman............descions descions!

 

[Steve C]

Another issue is budget

if you have 500 you can maybe get into an entry mig

1000 gets a bigger mig, or an entry tig (that can also stick weld)

2000 + gets you a pro quality mig or tig, the mig could maybe do aluminum, the tig would be generally good for all weldable metals.

It seems like there are alot of misconceptions about welding and welders. This is normal because welding is a very broad field that combines manual skills and science. One persons experiences may lead them to much different conclusions from another persons. My welding knowledge comes mainly from working in pharmaceutical manufacturing, where precision, and full penetration are critical. Tig is used almost exclusively. Someone who has worked in a production bodyshop may like mig for it's speed.

I would recomend to anyone that wants to learn to first go to the library or bookstore and do some basic research, then to establish a list of capabilities that are desired. For some the ability to weld aluminum or stainless may be important, for others it may not be, etc. Then go to some welding stores and ask questions. The store I deal with occaisonally has an "open house" where machines are set up for demo.

It's a big purchace for a hobbyist.

Of coarse, anyone buying a welder should get a plasma cutter to go with it

 

[Velocity2]

LOL steve! a plasma cutter is a very expensive tool and a cut off saw or a oxy fuel cutting torch would work great as well but just for a fraction of the cost. i mean geeze not all of us have 1,200-3,000 dollars to lay down on a plasma or a carbon gouger. i only have a cut off wheel and a grinder but plan on picking up a oxy-fuel rental tank. and for light body MIG is better. it uses filler so you dont have to when ya get ready to paint (that is if your good) but anyways for me instead of getting the power of blue i think i am going to pick up a Hobart ironman 250 for 1,400 bucks at the local TSC. it can do 1/2 in a single pass! <:-O

 

[Junk]

If you pay 1,400 for the Ironman 210 you are paying more than you would for the MM210 and you're getting a machine that is not as good as the MM210. Within the 135-180 range I would stick with Hobart, but for the 210 or 251 I would definitely go blue.

Read about the differences on the Hobart site forum.

 

[Velocity2]

If you pay 1,400 for the Ironman 210 you are paying more than you would for the MM210 and you're getting a machine that is not as good as the MM210. Within the 135-180 range I would stick with Hobart, but for the 210 or 251 I would definitely go blue.

Read about the differences on the Hobart site forum.

hey junk i said 250. i the 210 is a good machine but not enough juice for what i want. i the 250 is a great price and i have never had trouble with my HH180. and besides hobart says i can do a trade up and get 400 bucks back on my HH180 so i would only actually be paying for the 250. and for the price you cant beat the ironman250. i mean 60% duty cycle at 200 amps and infinite wire speed control? i like big blue but you really pay for a name there too. i like the hobarts and the price is good.

fyi its 1,400 new for a ironman 250
i could get a ironman 210 for under 950!

 

[bayrunner]

Hey Guys _____Thanks for the input, after some research and digging around, I finally narrowed my choice down to two machines, the Millermatic 210,or the Lincoln Power Mig 215. It seem that for my needs (auto fab., bumpers, sliders ,cages and some aluminum down the line )these seem to fit the bill, also I don’t want to get a machine that’s not powerful enough then regret it down the road. So, what do you think?????? WHICH ONE ????????????_____ THANKS BAYRUNNER

 

[Velocity2]

take a look at the hobart ironman 250. its a powerful machine for a good price. i hope to get mine in 3 weeks!

 

[haystax]

Hey Guys _____Thanks for the input, after some research and digging around, I finally narrowed my choice down to two machines, the Millermatic 210,or the Lincoln Power Mig 215. It seem that for my needs (auto fab., bumpers, sliders ,cages and some aluminum down the line )these seem to fit the bill, also I don?t want to get a machine that?s not powerful enough then regret it down the road. So, what do you think?????? WHICH ONE ????????????_____ THANKS BAYRUNNER

Miller, we have that welder and I have used the Lincoln as well. Until you get up to the Lincolns powered with Detroit diesels, Miller has them beat hands down. Anything up to 400 amps, Miller is the only way to go. Typically Miller has a higher duty cycle than the same amp Lincoln and your not just paying for the blue paint, Millers are a superior product in my opinion. Look around, how many service trucks and professional welders use Millers? That should tell you all you need to know.

 

[Junk]

Hey Guys _____Thanks for the input, after some research and digging around, I finally narrowed my choice down to two machines, the Millermatic 210,or the Lincoln Power Mig 215. It seem that for my needs (auto fab., bumpers, sliders ,cages and some aluminum down the line )these seem to fit the bill, also I don’t want to get a machine that’s not powerful enough then regret it down the road. So, what do you think?????? WHICH ONE ????????????_____ THANKS BAYRUNNER

Bayrunner,
Best thing to do is find a local dealer that has both and give them a twirl. Then you decide which you prefer. Both are excellent machines. I prefer the MM210, but I know several that have the PM215 and dig it.

There is no subsitute for you personally trying both out and any local dealer worth your business will gladly arrange for such a showdown.