{SOLVED} VSCTRAC/VSCOFF/VGRS lights all on (2 Viewers)

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aaronrules

aaronrules

Coolest person you know!
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Walked out to my truck today after work. The key fob didn't unlock the doors. Started the truck and the steering wheel didn't automatically move to the correct position. A/C wasn't at the same settings as when I turned it off 10 hours ago, and all three of the above lights are on. I have driven it a half mile. Pulled into parking lot, used my wifi OBDII scanner....no codes. Currently sitting in a parking with the truck running and the A/C working fine. Am I safe to drive it home?
 
Oh yeah AHC won't go into high, but will go down. I stopped it from going down and it returned to neutral.
 
TPMS light has been on since new tires.

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My wifes van does that when the battery voltage gets low. All of the warning lights come on, charge the battery, problem solved.
Drive it home, charge the battery, see what happens.

Modern cars are heavily dependent on computers, computers need exact voltage to work properly, frequent short trips (my wifes problem), bad battery, or a weak alternator will all cause the battery voltage to drop below the needed threshold that the computers need.
 
Spike555 said:
My wifes van does that when the battery voltage gets low. All of the warning lights come on, charge the battery, problem solved.
Drive it home, charge the battery, see what happens.

Modern cars are heavily dependent on computers, computers need exact voltage to work properly, frequent short trips (my wifes problem), bad battery, or a weak alternator will all cause the battery voltage to drop below the needed threshold that the computers need.
Click to expand...

I was thinking this might be the problem. Think I had it happen on my last truck and the drive home fixed the problem. I'm going to head home 15 miles at 55mph half the way. Hopefully it fixes itself enough to get my Slee battery tray and Interstate battery in.

Since you all are worried, I'll report in when I make it home.
 
Road and engine speed have nothing to do with it, it is the run time and load on the electrical system, turn everything off, drive home, let it idle for 15-20min with no extra electrical load, as long as the alternator is good adn the battery takes a charge that will do the trick.
But driving with everything on will not allow it to charge the battery.
If you are swapping out the battery with a known good one, then screw it, drive it home, install new battery and go from there.
Just remember, brand new batteries are charged at the factory, but then sit on a shelf loosing power until they are installed, so even a brand new battery can be low on voltage.
 
Agree that it sounds like low voltage or possibly a bad ground. When you get home, put a known to be good battery on it and see if that cures the problem.

You didn't happen to weld on it recently did you?
 
I guess I didn't hit post when I typed this up yesterday.



I'm home. Put my battery meter in and it showed what in the pics on the high (truck on) and low (battery only). Gonna leave the truck running for another 20 minutes. I had the A/C going pretty good on the way home because....Arkansas. Hopefully it'll charge the battery enough to nurse it until I get the tray and battery.


And no I haven't welded on it.....recently.

IMG_0795.JPG


IMG_0796.JPG
 
I have one of those little voltmeters too, pretty nifty little device.

Looking at those numbers it just seems to me that the battery was low because of high load/short trips.
 
Checked the fuse, it was blown. Disconnected the battery completely replaced the fuse, and it blew again. I tried both just taking the positive off the battery and taking both the negative and positive off. Both times, the fuse blew.

When I put the positive back on the battery, there a really short faint "sizzle" and tiny wisp of smoke. Man I hope this is because the battery on the way out and not a short I have to try to chase somewhere.

The same three lights are the only ones lit. No codes still. But the DVD system gives me "please and wait, loading system" or something like that screen. I've never seen that before, but that may be because it's a 2006 and the first time I've encountered a real problem.

I need help! Everything will be closed tomorrow. Can I get this fixed today? Do I have to take it somewhere? I was planning on driving to a minor league ballgame today...about a 180 mile round trip.
 
Just switched with a smaller but known working battery lights still on and.....fuse blew again. And he small bit of smoke and sizzle from connecting the battery happened with this battery also.
 
Unlikely it has anything to do with your main battery - you've got something shorting [or drawing excess current] that gets its power via the ECU B fuse so you'll need to grab your EWD and start trouble shooting. Maybe it's moisture that dries itself. For me (blowing the ECU B fuse) I observed a correlation with going into Reverse and the side mirrors dipping and the fuse blowing. Turned off the auto dip and fuse held, so I cleaned and lubed the side mirror internals and haven't had a reoccurrence in 8 months.
 
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Just noticed that this reservoir (AHC?) is missing the cap. No idea how or when that happened.

IMG_0797.JPG
 
PADDO said:
Unlikely it has anything to do with your main battery - you've got something shorting that gets its power via the ECU B fuse so you'll need to grab your EWD and start trouble shooting. Maybe it's moisture that dries itself. For me (blowing the ECU B fuse) I observed a correlation with going into Reverse and the side mirrors dipping and the fuse blowing. Turned off the auto dip and fuse held, so I cleaned and lubed the side mirror internals and haven't had a reoccurrence in 8 months.
Click to expand...

I did get one of those unlimited car wash deals about two weeks ago. Been hitting it almost everyday since. But I can't find anything other the heater fuse for the mirrors.
 
That ECU B2 fuse feeds the mirror ECU and other circuits - that's why you loose functionality of so many seemingly unconnected things including remote locking, mirror and seat memory. So not saying it's the mirrors in your case, but it was for me. You'll need to run through everything that's powered via ECU B2 and isolate if/where possible to indentify the offending circuit. Or you might have car wash water where it's not suppose to be.
 
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Currently trying not to screw up getting inside my mirrors....and no....I'm not going to weld anything back together!
 
OMG!!! Got the drivers mirror taken apart...nothing special to note. Other than the motor housing exploded in my hands trying to pry it open! Took a while to get it all lubed and put back together. Chasing a switch the PO had installed. Never found out what it even did.
 
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