VSC off and VSC trac lights came on (1 Viewer)

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Sep 21, 2012
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Didn't do anything crazy. Was at the store and backed out of the parking spot and both lights came on. I have a code scanner but it shows no codes. No other lights are on, I did a search and most others have the check engine light on as well. It seems to run and idle just fine. Upon restart, the lights are off but as soon as I put it in gear and move they come on. Any idea on what to check?
 
Just throwing out a few easy checks:

Does your CDL light come on and go off when you press CDL button?

Is brake fluid level at or above minimum?

With ignition off pump brake pedal more than 40 time (empties booster).Turn ignition to on, you should hear booster pump on, check that booster pump stops after 30 to 40 sec.

Check that ABS speed sensors are properly secure in back side of wheels.
 
Didn't do anything crazy. Was at the store and backed out of the parking spot and both lights came on. I have a code scanner but it shows no codes. No other lights are on, I did a search and most others have the check engine light on as well. It seems to run and idle just fine. Upon restart, the lights are off but as soon as I put it in gear and move they come on. Any idea on what to check?

diff lock button. My wife does this frequently.
 
Center diff light comes on the dash when i press the button so that's not it. Made sure the gas cap was tight. Checked all speed sensors on the wheels, they seem secure. Did the brake pump, light is still on.
 
I looked up how to pull the codes by the paperclip trick on the diagnostic port. This is what i got. ABS code 46 master cylinder pressure sensor or pressure sensor circuit and VSC code PNP switch or PNP switch circuit.

Any ideas??
 
I got these last week, came up with p0441 and p0455 codes for emission control system
I did the "remove gas cap, wait 5 minutes thing" the lights went away...for 10 minutes. Then they came back.
getting it checked out tuesday...hope its just that I need a new gas cap otherwise could be pricey
 
When I had those lights on the dash in my 2003 100, after much head-scratching and poking around I discovered that a critter (squirrel?) had chewed through some wires under the hood. So take a look at the wiring looms, particularly drivers-left of the engine.

-Phrog
 
I'm having similar issues with my year 2000 Hundy right now. Some of what follows may or may not be relevant but as you probably know VSC and TRAC are tightly integrated with the Master Cylinder system and the ABS accumulator (aka booster). In my case it has been painful...and expensive...and not over yet. Here's the gist of what I've learned so far in my situation.

1. Most typical code readers won't give you codes for ABS malfunction. Ammco Transmissions can and will do it for free. But it's best to spend the money (~$110) at a dealer and have them run a full diagnostic with print-out.
2. My rig is throwing code "C1223 – ABS Control System Malfunction", and "C1252 – Hydro Booster Pump Motor". In addition to occasional VSC and TRAC lights on the dash, it is now also making an occasional noise like someone is skinning a live goose under the hood on the driver side.
3. Given the periodic noise and vibration of the pump, it's most likely a problem with the mc booster pump.
4. The master cylinder, the booster pump and the controller are all integrated as one unit.
5. According to several sources,including two dealers, Toyota typically does not sell the pump as a standalone part, nor will they install it. Other places might but beware.
6. The master cylinder, the booster and the controller are sold as an integrated unit, particularly for vehicles with VSC.
7. According to the dealer Tech I spoke with in Santa Fe, vehicles showing intermittent VSC dash lights likely have much bigger issues with the integrated master cylinder and ABS system.
8. The precise month of vehicle manufacture matters as apparently the integrated design was evolving during production. Hence Toyota's reluctance to sell a booster that may not be compatible with the ABS controller used in a particular month of production. Also a good reason not to try to 'rebuild' the mc unit or install parts of one from a salvaged vehicle. Remember too that ABS can generate fluid pressures around 2,000psi so unless you really know what you're doing you might want a pro to deal with it.
9. Recently the ABS/VAC/TRAC lights came on on the dash the morning I was leaving for Santa Fe. Then everything went back to normal. I suspected it was a loose connection on a sensor wire (I had all the fluids, hoses, belts double checked before hitting the road.) Brakes worked flawlessly so off we went.
10. When I reached Santa Fe I took it to the dealer and received the above ref'd codes. The brakes continued to work fine. The dealer told me that because it was likely the booster pump the only real risk was if a panic stop was needed it would completely lock up all four wheels and full-function could only be restored in a shop with the proper diagnostic tools.
11. THE SCARY PART-- The dealer quoted me $3,700 for the integrated master cylinder with booster suitable for use with my truck based on its production date. That did not include the 5 1/2 hours shop time ($852) that included the cost of using a Toyota SST to bleed and recalibrate the brakes once the unit was installed.
12. OMG!!!
13. WHERE THINGS STAND NOW-- I ofound a OEM unit for around $2,300 and it's on its way. While DIY installation as possible, the vehicle will still need recalibration and system bleed utilizing the dealer special service tool (SST).
14. Apparently some DIY'ers have done the recalibration and bleeding of the system, but this has on occasion resulted in total failure of the newly installed parts -- so they got to spend ~3K -- AGAIN. (anyone who gets that far, unless you have access to the SST -- have the dealer do it!)

I love my truck. It's great on the highway and has yet to fail to go where my buddies with locked, solid front axels can go. It's just that the damn thing is going to break me. Toyota needs to get some sort or re-man program put together for this master cylinder (and a lot of other stuff too!). It's something that shouldn't take a house payment or two to fix!

Good luck and feel free to pm me should you want to chat.
 
I'm really hoping it's not the master cylinder and it's some other silly sensor that is setting off the code.
 
I want to say I have come across a post of someone rebuilding the motor.

If it were me, I'd take the motor to a starter alternator shop and ask if the can rebuild it. If they don't, there are small electrical shops that rebuild motors all the time.

I wouldn't disclose what it's for though. Maybe say it's for a project.

.02
 
Everything seems to be operating properly. Brakes feel the same and I can hear the pump run. Could something else be triggering it to pop up that code? Weird how I also get the PNP switch which I assume is the neutral safety switch.
 
Use FSM to follow diagnostic step by step for the code you got, which may point to Master cylinder pressure sensor.
 
Got the FSM, thanks 2001LC!! Will it hurt anything to drive it like this until I can get it figured out or should I keep it parked?
 

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