Voltage Regulator (ext.) / How it works (2 Viewers)
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Rudi, how feasible do you think it would be to replace this unit with a solar charge regulator?
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
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Aloha Jen , sorry no, repaired my old one and adjusted it a bit to get to 30 volts.
I think if mine would fail I would replace with original, works 30 years.
If I look what is for sale not many seem to be better (or digital)
24 volt voltage regulator | eBay
The best way seems to use a battery saver:, but shipping and import tax was to much for me
Used Vanner Vann-Guard 70-100M Equalizer 100Amp | eBay
I think if mine would fail I would replace with original, works 30 years.
If I look what is for sale not many seem to be better (or digital)
24 volt voltage regulator | eBay
The best way seems to use a battery saver:, but shipping and import tax was to much for me
Used Vanner Vann-Guard 70-100M Equalizer 100Amp | eBay
Rudi, I'm batting 1.000. Three electrical parts, alternator, VR and oil pressure sending unit, that I didn't need. I love chasing my tail. Oil pressure turned out to be one or two bullet connections. Those must have been required with the change in wire routing from the '70 to the '79. And apparently just unplugging and plugging back in was enough to "clean" the connection. However, the new sender pegged over the maximum 100 psi with key on and stayed there when I started it up. You can see the difference in the wire connections between the two, the old one is a one wire and the new one looks like it should have power and ground. But the real difference is on the business end, the old hole is very small and the new one is huge. The only "writing" on the old one is 100 psi. The new one doesn't say anything about psi but does say 12V. Me thinks that is a big difference for usage. Say adios to that $30.
Then I got lucky. I didn't leave it like that for very long. When I installed the old one all is good. The VR/alternator change works, but differently than before. Before I would read around 14.5 when running with really no noticeable change. Now the Voltmeter will rise to just under 16V and fall back to 14 or so at idle, moves about like the tachometer. Not sure if it is the VR or perhaps the condition of the battery. While it is only a one year or so old battery, with minimal use for some nine months, the 7 1/2 hour run with no charging (as the VR was not "excited" via the ignition key) and the last 1 1/2 hour with headlights may have "hurt" the battery?
Thanks Rudi!
Saw you helping another fellow with a gauge problem and remembered that I hadn't told you that I did the VR adjustment as you had noted earlier. I tried it, twice, with the VR bolted to the firewall. Seemed to work but then after a couple of days it would creep back up. I think it was springing back. So I took it off so I could better see my adjustment and it didn't take much but like you said, it is a tough piece of material and you don't have to adjust it much. So now it reads just over 14V and just under 14V with the headlights on. Typically I'm only running in the 1,500 to 2,000 rpm range due to the road conditions and adequate speed. But thanks for the help you provide us all.
Rudi, Same old problem , but still confused with my set up. My regulator was mechanically challenged when the bj42 fell over in the Pyrenees. see bj42 found in a derelict barn. The new regulator only has 5 wires compared to the old one which has a fat white wire on pin 6. My sedimentor / ignition light is on all the time and my ammeter isn't moving. I don't see any change on terminal B on the alternator so I don't think I am charging. I have only driven 10 miles since I completed my 2 years restoration and am reluctant to go further for fear of conking out. ( embarresed ). Any clues? Can I check the output of the alternator with the 3 pin plug removed and applying battery volts to F (field) and see if B goes up on revving ?
The blue wire is the trigger wire from the ignition switch. Without it nothing will happen.
Thanks Cuencanolenny. The circuit diagram I am using shows the blue lead from the igniton goes to alternator B terminal and to point B contact on regulator. Confusingly then, there is also a thin blue lead from the null N point in the alternator back to the regulator to fire up the coil which switches the points to energise the second coil from the ignition blue lead. Sounds simple but I am just off to do a bit of wire chasing and see what, if anything, I get from terminal N at alternator.
The alternator wires all go into the plug to the regulator. The blue lead goes to the ignition switch. See post #1.
My new 5 pin regulator is not functioning at all so I guess the WL (blue) input from the alternator is not energised. Checking WL from the alternator shows 00.9 volts, ie zero. In an attempt to prove my alternator is functioning I disconnected its 3pin plug and applied 24v from battery directly on to WG F field terminal . Running and revving the engine for a minute initially showed terminal fluctuating wildly higher than the steady 24.7 initial reading. Then the reading steadied at 24.7 with no more change. Has anyone tried this method as I am still not convinced that the alternator is OK.
Going from bad to worse regarding checking out alternator. Engine stopped completely whilst monitoring regulator pins. Then no ignition or glowplug lights. Back to basics again. Fuse blown , but still no lights or engine start up. Cleaned all fuse holder pins and tightened. Bingo, back to only bad scenario. Lights on and engine started. Still doubt charging so reinstalled original regulator after straightening out a few bends. Perhaps crucially, just discovered fat blue and white lead from alternator finishes up in 3 pin socket just above regulator connector but is not connected to anything. No 3 pin plug in sight . Any clues anyone as this could be the source of all my problems.
hey Rudi ,
Thank u Very Much for taking the time to create , maintain & Host your : Voltage Regulator (ext.) / How it works
Thread , its a wealth of informational archives for the Membership to refer to .........
I adjusted the VR per Rudi's direction and it works great. I did have to take it off as the first couple of tries I wasn't getting it properly tweaked and it would spring back to the high reading. But once adjusted, never need to do anything but monitor my gauge
.
FJBen
SILVER Star
Bump from the dead.
1988 BJ74 12v external voltage regulator. 6 wire oem, new era.
2770015040 Partsouq shows as the VR
Just the other night alternator/battery light came on at idle, buzzing from the voltage regulator.
One side buzzes the other doesn’t on the VR I will upload a video in the next few days. I’ve adjusted the VR but it was still causing the light, then would go up 15.8 charging. Lights, brights and off-road lights cause voltage to go under 12.9 at idle.
Is this the VR or alternator causing this?
1988 BJ74 12v external voltage regulator. 6 wire oem, new era.
2770015040 Partsouq shows as the VR
Just the other night alternator/battery light came on at idle, buzzing from the voltage regulator.
One side buzzes the other doesn’t on the VR I will upload a video in the next few days. I’ve adjusted the VR but it was still causing the light, then would go up 15.8 charging. Lights, brights and off-road lights cause voltage to go under 12.9 at idle.
Is this the VR or alternator causing this?
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