Rudi, suddenly I have no oil pressure. How do I test the Toyota 2F oil pressure sending unit?
Voltage Regulator (ext.) / How it works (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter bj40green
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Thank you Rudi, positive to the bulb, negative from the bulb to the sender. Now to find a 3.4 watt bulb. I think I have some from the old '70 that I bought and never needed to use. I will check that tomorrow.
I was looking through a few pictures and saw where I had rebuilt the heater box assembly and it looked so good. And all I had to do was keep it clean, which I did. So considering how it looks now I decided enough shoddy work has been done and I will drain the cooling system tomorrow and pull the heater as well as my shift levers and make them look good, again. Thanks for your help. Did you see that your Dutch countrymen are in Vladivostock with their BJ45 rig?
I was looking through a few pictures and saw where I had rebuilt the heater box assembly and it looked so good. And all I had to do was keep it clean, which I did. So considering how it looks now I decided enough shoddy work has been done and I will drain the cooling system tomorrow and pull the heater as well as my shift levers and make them look good, again. Thanks for your help. Did you see that your Dutch countrymen are in Vladivostock with their BJ45 rig?
I think my brain was getting in my way. I was confusing 3.4W with 3.4V and thinking the terminal of the sender was providing the resistance. I mean, a tail light bulb would do the same thing, wouldn't it? Maybe just not as bright?
The bulb I had set up for testing is an old dash board bulb. I can read the 3 but not anything after that. Connected to the battery terminals it is bright. Connected to the oil sender, key on, no light. Start engine and the bulb is very dim, just barely glowing. Increase engine rpm, no change in the dim bulb.
Yeah, but thanks for the confirmation. I think this is an anomaly unrelated the the other wiring issues. It just happened to fail. Curiously the day I'm to bring it home it won't start. Despite numerous wiring issues, replacement of points (twice, bad bushing no spring) we stuck an old used coil on it. A fully charged battery is the only reason I made it as far as I did. Fingers crossed I can find a oil pressure sending unit down here tomorrow, after I drop off the heater box and shift levers at the powder coating to re-do. One thing that is easy, just loop a piece of hose to the two lines to the heater box and you don't lose use of the vehicle. Can't shift it of course
.
Is that something that can be corrected with a gasoline bath?
I replied and then re-read the post. At first I thought you were teasing me about one person holding the engine upside down to see if it spilled. Geez, I am too tired and my brain hurts. Wife is taking the day off tomorrow, so I will have a second person on hand to do just what you suggest.
Hello Rudi/bj40green
You seem to be the Guru on everything and i have a question for you from NZ.
i have an 85 BJ70 with a 24v 3b and of late have been having some issues with charging...
All seems to work well but after a while the battery's become flat and will no longer start the truck. you can however run start it and it carry's on its mary way.
I also noticed that the battery's are drained overnight so decided to try some trouble shooting of my own thinking i had a parasitic draw of some sort. After running a meter over it i found a drain of 0.3A. Pulling just about every fuse and plug there was i traced the source of the drain to the external VR on the side of the engine bay OR the alternator, i am unsure as to which is the issue.
This is what i have found so far.
- Sometimes when the battery terminal is connected (Disconnected to avoid the drain overnight) it arcs and you can hear the VR click as a connection is made. Sometimes this doesn't happen and the drain is nonexistent when measured with a meter (0.015a).
- When the VR is heard to click upon connection of the battery terminal there is found to be no glow or filter light come on in the cab when ignition is turned to the heat stage. However it works normally when the VR does not click upon battery terminal connection
- After driving round the last few days the charge and filter light has come on but is faint.
What are your thoughts? is this due to an electrical short somewhere, dead VR, alternator or all three?
Thanks Chris
You seem to be the Guru on everything and i have a question for you from NZ.
i have an 85 BJ70 with a 24v 3b and of late have been having some issues with charging...
All seems to work well but after a while the battery's become flat and will no longer start the truck. you can however run start it and it carry's on its mary way.
I also noticed that the battery's are drained overnight so decided to try some trouble shooting of my own thinking i had a parasitic draw of some sort. After running a meter over it i found a drain of 0.3A. Pulling just about every fuse and plug there was i traced the source of the drain to the external VR on the side of the engine bay OR the alternator, i am unsure as to which is the issue.
This is what i have found so far.
- Sometimes when the battery terminal is connected (Disconnected to avoid the drain overnight) it arcs and you can hear the VR click as a connection is made. Sometimes this doesn't happen and the drain is nonexistent when measured with a meter (0.015a).
- When the VR is heard to click upon connection of the battery terminal there is found to be no glow or filter light come on in the cab when ignition is turned to the heat stage. However it works normally when the VR does not click upon battery terminal connection
- After driving round the last few days the charge and filter light has come on but is faint.
What are your thoughts? is this due to an electrical short somewhere, dead VR, alternator or all three?
Thanks Chris
Last edited:
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
- Thread starter
- #195
Hi Chris,
I assume you have a 5 or 6 wire VR?
That VR should not click when you connect the battery, if it does, the VR is malfunctioning.
Probably the contacts of the V relay (page 2 post #38) are causing the trouble.
Try to clean them with a little piece of very fine (500, 800 or 1000) sandpaper.
Rudi
I assume you have a 5 or 6 wire VR?
That VR should not click when you connect the battery, if it does, the VR is malfunctioning.
Probably the contacts of the V relay (page 2 post #38) are causing the trouble.
Try to clean them with a little piece of very fine (500, 800 or 1000) sandpaper.
Rudi
I have a 6 wire VR. I will have a look at the contacts shortly and give it a clean.
Yup the drain reduces back to 0.015a. Took the cover off, cleaned all the points but it still does it. The unshielded coil is the one that’s activating
I shall try source another one, should this coil be brown like this?
Similar threads
