Awesome information. Really helped me diagnose charging issues with my fj40 here in West Papua, Indonesia. Thank you Rudi!
Voltage Regulator (ext.) / How it works (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter bj40green
- Start date
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I am having problem with my voltage regulator. So my problem is I believe is that it is not charging the battery the voltage of the alternator is 12.10 and really slowly climbs. I missed wired the wires on the back of the alternator to what I thought was right and have corrected it and match your info/specs. At what level should I see the voltage regulator kick back to full charge? Also I did a diesel swap could it be at idle its not kicking on the alternator?
To sum up my questions what are the specs of the stock voltage regulator? Thanks in advance this thread as helped me learn a lot.
Sorry if this does not pertain to this thread.
The info
1971 Toyota FJ55
1f alternator new reman
voltage regulator original
5 cylinder Mercedes Diesel motor
Wiring is stock with extension to alternator on passenger side of the engine.
To sum up my questions what are the specs of the stock voltage regulator? Thanks in advance this thread as helped me learn a lot.
Sorry if this does not pertain to this thread.
The info
1971 Toyota FJ55
1f alternator new reman
voltage regulator original
5 cylinder Mercedes Diesel motor
Wiring is stock with extension to alternator on passenger side of the engine.
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
- Thread starter
- #143
12.1 Volt is too low. When the battery is full:
At idle not much happens it should be around 12.6V but it's not really charging at this low rpm's.
Revving up to above 1000rpm the voltage should (slowly) go up to between 13.4 and 14.4V Depends on how empty the battery is.
When the battery is fully charged the VR should stop energizing the alternator and the voltage could go down to 13.6 or so and then kick in again and start charging again.
12.1V indicates mostly one or more defective diodes in the alternator.
Take it out and bring it to an electric shop for testing.
Rudi
I agree with Rudi, way too low. I also don't understand why it would be so low at idle as Rudi indicates. Diesel or gas, running is running and my old F alternator is still being used on my "new" 2F engine and as soon as it starts I am showing 14V on my AutoMeter gauge.
Thank you, I guess being new doesn't count as good. Guess I will be trying again. lets hope new voltage regulator and alt will help.
Perhaps Rudi can help us out here. You stated that you had it wired incorrectly and fixed that. However, if the unit was spinning because the engine was running, what impact would that mis-wired circuit have on the alternator? Rudi indicated that it could have one or more failed diodes. I wonder if the incorrect wiring/usage could have caused that.
Could the charge light on the dash be the cause of this problem? is it required on the voltage regulator I noticed this today it does not come on.
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
- Thread starter
- #148
The charge light is not required but is a status indicator of what happens in the charge circuit.
That light should come on when you turn the key to the "on" position and should go off when the engine runs and comes on when the charge circuit malfunctions.
I doubt that wrong wiring caused the problem.
That means that there is a form of life but not enough.
Rudi
Well not sure what is wrong alternator is fine tested and put out 13.6 volts. Brand new voltage regulator. Still no charging not sure what is wrong. Put everything on the car an not seeing any more voltage than what the battery is putting out. Battery tested fine. Pulled the battery out and charged that battery over night and off the charger left for a few days stayed 12.8. So going to start a new thread as not thinking this is realavent to this thread
You have checked your wiring and have a wire going to the battery?
Just thought of that and may have found the problem the charging cable the B+ wire has pulled apart not sure how that happened. Going to check to see if that it or I pulled it apart taking the tape off the wiring loom post my finding here in a bit. Thanks for all the help with this been 4 years and this may have been my gremlin would explain why the old motor never ran well.
You should be able to connect a multi-meter to that wire and verify the 14.2V coming out of the voltage regulator. If that wire doesn't check the same at the battery, you have probably found your problem.
Well that was not the problem I am reading the same at the battery at every connection, no idea what is wrong.
Voltage regulators have points. Are they opening?
Found the Problem, Took a bit but just because the fuse looks good doesn't mean it is making a circuit. Thanks for all the help with my charging system and I have learned so much for this thread on Voltage regulators.
You deserve a beer. This Bud's for you!
So I have a 1980 bj40 with 6 wire voltage regulator that is dead. I have gotten a hold of a 3 wire one is there a way I can wire this one to make it work?
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
- Thread starter
- #158
What's the problem with the 6 wire VR? Is it burned or are the contacts bad/corroded?
Can you post a picture?
Back to your question.... Yes you can, but you loose the charge lamp (if fitted).
You don't use the B, L and N wires.
Just use the IGN, F and E wires. Should work.
3 wire VR
6 wire VR
Rudi
Thanks I'll post pics later. As far as I know I think she is burnt.What's the problem with the 6 wire VR? Is it burned or are the contacts bad/corroded?
Can you post a picture?
Back to your question.... Yes you can, but you loose the charge lamp (if fitted).
You don't use the B, L and N wires.
Just use the IGN, F and E wires. Should work.
3 wire VR
6 wire VR
Rudi
So the weird thing is that there is only 5 wires coming from the 40 to the connector
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