Volk Racing TE37XT SL M-Spec Wheels Fitment Help! (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

sreyes1103

SILVER Star
Joined
May 6, 2021
Threads
13
Messages
242
Location
Baltimore, MD
Anyone have experience with Volk TE37XT M-spec wheels on our 200‘s and if they would fit?

The size I am looking at is the only one they offer in out bolt pattern.

Link - Volk Racing TE37XT SL M-Spec Wheel 18x9.5 5x150 0mm Pressed Graphite | WVDOX00LPG - https://www.vividracing.com/volk-racing-te37xt-mspec-wheel-18x95-5x150-0mm-pressed-graphite-p-154756232.html

1666035568177.png
 
For a complete answer, we'd need to know whether you plan on installing on a LC200 (KDSS concerns) or an LX570.

Regardless, three concerns occur to me at the get go:

1. I can find no Load Rating for this wheel on the Volks site - should be at least 2500 lbs.

2. LC200/LX570 wheels are designed to be Hub-Centric. This requires a center bore of (usually) about 110.1. The center bore of the wheel you linked to is 114 which would be too large to allow the wheel to center on the hub. For me, this would be a deal breaker.

3. Some folks have run 0 Offset wheels (like this one), but it makes tire choice critical, and one's willingness to chop up body mount, fender liner, etc. to make it work.

It is a nice looking wheel, but based on available info I would recommend passing.

HTH
 
For a complete answer, we'd need to know whether you plan on installing on a LC200 (KDSS concerns) or an LX570.

Regardless, three concerns occur to me at the get go:

1. I can find no Load Rating for this wheel on the Volks site - should be at least 2500 lbs.

2. LC200/LX570 wheels are designed to be Hub-Centric. This requires a center bore of (usually) about 110.1. The center bore of the wheel you linked to is 114 which would be too large to allow the wheel to center on the hub. For me, this would be a deal breaker.

3. Some folks have run 0 Offset wheels (like this one), but it makes tire choice critical, and one's willingness to chop up body mount, fender liner, etc. to make it work.

It is a nice looking wheel, but based on available info I would recommend passing.

HTH
Thank you for the reply, this would potentially go on an Lx570.

Ive seen not this specific wheel on a tundra but Te37xt M-spec, but never on a LC200.
 
Thank you for the reply, this would potentially go on an Lx570.

Ive seen not this specific wheel on a tundra but Te37xt M-spec, but never on a LC200.
A set being installed on a given vehicle doesn't at all mean it's the right way to do things.
 
Volk makes some high quality stuff. I'd give them a call about the load rating but wouldn't think you would have an issue.

As for fitment, you're going to need to do some work. Here's 17x8.5 +0 to give you an idea - you're going to have to do more work than this guy (.25" wider on each side). This is with 285/70/17 on stock suspension. If you want them to tuck, probably even more work on top of that. Are you comfortable doing that to your rig?
 
You are looking at >$4-5k+USD for a set of wheels that will likely be fairly detrimental to handling with a 0 offset, and a PITA due to non hub centric…

You can get a set of new, mint, rock warriors (which is arguably the best performing wheels for a 200) for less then half the price of these.
 
@RS6tofj80 ran Volks on Rapido in the 20x9 flavor:

 
And the Medusa SEMA build:

 
I haven't seen any large PCDs that weren't 0mm but haven't looked that hard because these are way too fancy for how I use my truck lol.

Although Those don’t look like a 0 offset
 
I'm pretty deep down this rabbit hole right now because I'm planning on doing a set of TE37's after my rear bumper, but with the lead times I've been debating ordering them now. If you don't have to have the grey finish of the SL there are better options for fitment. Volk offers the regular M-Spec in a +20 offset that would probably give a better end result. They're even on Vivid's site right now offered in bronze, black, and red. The downside is these are a special order item and they will only get made once they have enough orders to do a run. They quoted me 8-12 months lead time. I also brought up the issue of the 114 bore and they recommended the use of hub-centric rings.

As far as anyone running them, I know at Toyota Jamboree in May I saw the Duggy's Garage 200 series with a set of blue TE37's on it. If I remember correctly he has an account here so you might be able to reach out and ask some questions. I can't remember the handle though-- @duggy ?

 
I'm pretty deep down this rabbit hole right now because I'm planning on doing a set of TE37's after my rear bumper, but with the lead times I've been debating ordering them now. If you don't have to have the grey finish of the SL there are better options for fitment. Volk offers the regular M-Spec in a +20 offset that would probably give a better end result. They're even on Vivid's site right now offered in bronze, black, and red. The downside is these are a special order item and they will only get made once they have enough orders to do a run. They quoted me 8-12 months lead time. I also brought up the issue of the 114 bore and they recommended the use of hub-centric rings.

As far as anyone running them, I know at Toyota Jamboree in May I saw the Duggy's Garage 200 series with a set of blue TE37's on it. If I remember correctly he has an account here so you might be able to reach out and ask some questions. I can't remember the handle though-- @duggy ?


$1000 a wheel?!

giphy.gif
 
$1000 a wheel?!

giphy.gif
That was the fist thing I noticed. Even if someone has $$$$$$$ to throw away, The extra ~$3k over a set of RWs could be so much better spent

My other soap box is light weight. It has its place in track cars, I had Volks on my caged s2000 and caterham. No way these will make a difference on a slow truck. Like ballet slippers on an elephant.

In my world 3 things that shouldn’t be weighted: mountain bikes, downhill skis, and truck wheels.
 
I have the wheels. Honestly not sure what the bore is but I cannot even fit the pass through center caps to make the wheel fit so I’m sure it’s the hub centric version,

These are Falke Wildpeak 295/70/18
I had to make adjustments to the fender liner to push them in more toward the front and also BMC. Sounds like a lot of work but the shop doing it does them a lot and I had my car back the same day. Looks very clean.
I do not notice a big difference in handling with the 0 offset but I was running the stock Heritage wheels with 25mm spider trax spacers prior. Maybe if I went from full stock to 0 offset I’d feel the difference.

ACD260F1-383D-4D96-B6FF-5C2810C6F694.jpeg


6DDE161E-FCB0-4867-902E-9528A728C4E2.jpeg
 
I have the wheels. Honestly not sure what the bore is but I cannot even fit the pass through center caps to make the wheel fit so I’m sure it’s the hub centric version,

These are Falke Wildpeak 295/70/18
I had to make adjustments to the fender liner to push them in more toward the front and also BMC. Sounds like a lot of work but the shop doing it does them a lot and I had my car back the same day. Looks very clean.
I do not notice a big difference in handling with the 0 offset but I was running the stock Heritage wheels with 25mm spider trax spacers prior. Maybe if I went from full stock to 0 offset I’d feel the difference.

View attachment 3144736

View attachment 3144737
How do you prevent your paint from getting destroyed? I’m guessing rarely leave payment? When I went from a +55 to a +35 (picture of rear wheel) this past spring noticed that my paint is getting blasted (picture of a ton of chips)…. My project before next spring is to install rally style flaps.

I’ll add for context that I don’t really care about the cosmetics of my paint just worry about it from a rust prevention standpoint.

image.jpg


image.jpg


image.jpg
 
I have the wheels. Honestly not sure what the bore is but I cannot even fit the pass through center caps to make the wheel fit so I’m sure it’s the hub centric version,

These are Falke Wildpeak 295/70/18
I had to make adjustments to the fender liner to push them in more toward the front and also BMC. Sounds like a lot of work but the shop doing it does them a lot and I had my car back the same day. Looks very clean.
I do not notice a big difference in handling with the 0 offset but I was running the stock Heritage wheels with 25mm spider trax spacers prior. Maybe if I went from full stock to 0 offset I’d feel the difference.
How do you prevent your paint from getting destroyed? I’m guessing rarely leave payment? When I went from a +55 to a +35 (picture of rear wheel) this past spring noticed that my paint is getting blasted (picture of a ton of chips)…. My project before next spring is to install rally style flaps.

I’ll add for context that I don’t really care about the cosmetics of my paint just worry about it from a rust prevention standpoint.

View attachment 3144834

View attachment 3144835

View attachment 3144836
I’m not flying through dirt trails every weekend or anything but I try to get out as often as I can. Use paint protection film. I actually own 4 shops that install it lol. These photos are from last weekend. On dirt I may add.

0450D133-BAB8-4027-B73D-9E3726D594B2.jpeg


AC872A1D-D25E-4B31-9BD4-DFE84D4F9117.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom