- Thread starter
- #81
These bumpers will fit the 08-15 range Lc. The air bag sensors are inertia switches, so they will be unaffected. The rear will maintain the full factory tow rating, as it will retain the factory hitch.
ARCHIVE Victory4x4 LC200 build, prototyping and product development!
- Thread starter brimy311
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
These bumpers will fit the 08-15 range Lc. The air bag sensors are inertia switches, so they will be unaffected. The rear will maintain the full factory tow rating, as it will retain the factory hitch.
Will you be accounting for the Ahc pump behind the right rear for the LX?
- Thread starter
- #83
Testing flex on that strike rear
That’s awesome!
will the lines match up to the 2015 front end too?
Any option to relocate the trailing wiring harness into the rear bumper? That's been one of my pet peeves.
Are you planning brake lights in the bumper (since tire swingouts often block the tail/brake lights) or are those holes for rear camp lights?
Yes! I am toying with the idea of putting a hole in my factory bumper for this. I have a 40 gal LRA which evicted the trailer plug from its normal spot and is now tucked up well out of reach. I needed to access the plug a lot more than I thought I would and I have been longingly eying up the Dissent bumper for this very reason.
I toyed with that idea too. The problem for me was that the hitch is in the way and forces you to install it actually even further to the side than it currently is. Also there was not really any support for the bracket behind the bumper, and although the bumper is reasonably thick I was afraid a lot of tugging and bouncing around would cause it to crack the plastic and break loose.
You went further down the road than I have yet. Waiting for a free day to pull the bumper and see what’s back there. I had assumed there was some metal bar behind there that I could drill through. I wouldn’t mount to the plastic.
You won’t be able to drill through the metal. If your clever and there’s enough space you might be able to somehow mount it to the frame, but I think the plug is too deep
You can get access to a lot of the inside of the bumper without removing it, just need to pull the black plastic trim off behind the rear wheel
best bet I think would be to get a long piece of 3/16” aluminum maybe 4-5” wide and 1-2’ long, drill that so you can fit plug through it and then use that to reinforce behind the bumper so any movement is spread across a wide area of the bumper
There’s enough room, but you’ll need to take off some of the plastic bits protecting the plug wires:
I just got around to installing the molle panel. Always other projects getting in the way of the fun stuff. I ran into a couple issues that I decided to email Victory about. I just sent the email, and I'm sure they'll respond. However, I wanted to let you all know about the issues so that you would all maybe learn from my first mistake, and near critical second mistake. I think that these issues should be addressed by Victory. I've got no reason right now to think they won't be. If I'm wrong, then I'd like to know it so I can learn from my mistakes.
1. I followed the video instructions on removing all the interior tril panels. Quite helpful! However, I got to the step where I was to remove the clips that were for holding up the top "garnish panel". I cut off the front and rear clips, then I twisted the center clip to release the panel. Cool. The video then skips past a very infuriating step. How do you release the clips from their bracket? I had to cut out one of them, which was not easy. Then when it came out, I found out that it was a simple matter of compressing the clip to release. Even the Factory Service Manual doesn't show that. It would have been very nice to have at least a picture of what the clip looks like so I would have known how to compress the clip to release it. With that knowledge, the front clip came out no issue. From the looks of the video, it appears the installer (Kevin?) had a heck of a time removing that clip as well. The metal bracket the clip was in had most of its paint removed in the attempt to get the clip off.
2. I kept going with the install up until the point where the installer recommended putting all panels back on before threading the screws for the mounting brackets. I decided to test threading first. I'm glad I did. The bolts included with the kit were too long! I couldn't snug up the bolts without damaging the body of the vehicle. I was forced to cut the bolts down. No where in the instructions does it mention this fact. If I did snug up the bolts without trimming them, they would have hit the outer body panel and probably cracked the panel and paint. Correct length bolts should have been supplied and a warning issued before the install. This is really not OK the way it is.
The final issue I encountered is my own fault. I messed up the nutsert install on the rear hole. I used a socket wrench to cinch up the nut, and the included M6 bolt (used as the install tool) released from the nutsert without issue. However, now I can't screw in the supplied M6 screw for the bracket. It gets caught and eventually will not move at all. I have never installed nutserts before yesterday. How do I remove them? I'm imagining with a drill bit, but what size? I think these are M6 nutserts (since the bolt is an M6). Should I spend the money to get a proper nutsert installation tool?
1. I followed the video instructions on removing all the interior tril panels. Quite helpful! However, I got to the step where I was to remove the clips that were for holding up the top "garnish panel". I cut off the front and rear clips, then I twisted the center clip to release the panel. Cool. The video then skips past a very infuriating step. How do you release the clips from their bracket? I had to cut out one of them, which was not easy. Then when it came out, I found out that it was a simple matter of compressing the clip to release. Even the Factory Service Manual doesn't show that. It would have been very nice to have at least a picture of what the clip looks like so I would have known how to compress the clip to release it. With that knowledge, the front clip came out no issue. From the looks of the video, it appears the installer (Kevin?) had a heck of a time removing that clip as well. The metal bracket the clip was in had most of its paint removed in the attempt to get the clip off.
2. I kept going with the install up until the point where the installer recommended putting all panels back on before threading the screws for the mounting brackets. I decided to test threading first. I'm glad I did. The bolts included with the kit were too long! I couldn't snug up the bolts without damaging the body of the vehicle. I was forced to cut the bolts down. No where in the instructions does it mention this fact. If I did snug up the bolts without trimming them, they would have hit the outer body panel and probably cracked the panel and paint. Correct length bolts should have been supplied and a warning issued before the install. This is really not OK the way it is.
The final issue I encountered is my own fault. I messed up the nutsert install on the rear hole. I used a socket wrench to cinch up the nut, and the included M6 bolt (used as the install tool) released from the nutsert without issue. However, now I can't screw in the supplied M6 screw for the bracket. It gets caught and eventually will not move at all. I have never installed nutserts before yesterday. How do I remove them? I'm imagining with a drill bit, but what size? I think these are M6 nutserts (since the bolt is an M6). Should I spend the money to get a proper nutsert installation tool?
I put in several nutserts with the simple spinning / star washer tool. But the $50 long handled version is way easier and relatively fool proof, particularly if you can set the depth of compression.
unfortunately the long handles on the tool make it a difficult proposition for many car uses, where there are lots of immovable objects potentially in the way.
If the bolt won’t go in it probably doesn’t match the nursert thread pitch
unfortunately the long handles on the tool make it a difficult proposition for many car uses, where there are lots of immovable objects potentially in the way.
If the bolt won’t go in it probably doesn’t match the nursert thread pitch
- Thread starter
- #96
We are working on the tube prototype. Hopefully we have it sorted out by the end of the week.
Our fabrication department is the most impacted right now. We are running around 8-12 weeks on lead times for bumpers and sliders.
- Thread starter
- #97
Fit, finish. Ready for tube work.
what is the thickness of the metal used? also there should be some gap with a rubber trim taking it up for when you hit things
also could you post some pictures of the winch drum access?
thank you
Agreed that cut is extremely tight. There absolutely needs to be a 1/4 - 1/2" gap to account for any bumper and body flex. Looks like even if you went on a dirt road that will bump and dislodge the OEM plastic trim nevermind bashing it on a rock. Good thing it's just a prototype, hopefully the production model addresses that.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
@brimy311 i think the key issue is the frame and body move independently, and having no appreciable gap may look nice, but it won’t work well in use.
Seems like most vendors address this with more gap between the bull bar and the body panels and a bulbous edge trim that can fill the gap, allowing for that movement.
I think the Ironman bull bar users here were even having issues with the bumper hitting the tabs on the bottom of the headlight housing.
Seems like most vendors address this with more gap between the bull bar and the body panels and a bulbous edge trim that can fill the gap, allowing for that movement.
I think the Ironman bull bar users here were even having issues with the bumper hitting the tabs on the bottom of the headlight housing.
