Vibration due to Uneven Coated Shaft?++Famous Clunk Solved (1 Viewer)

94SRUNNER

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I believe it is just on the passenger side.

Also...have you checked your engine and transmission mounts? What about condition of the exhaust hangers/dampeners?
 
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I believe it is just on the passenger side.

Also...have you checked your engine and transmission mounts? What about condition of the exhaust hangers/dampeners?


Yea under the vehicle I spent serious amount of time with a tall pry bar. Also ran the vehicle while it was off the ground. Unfortunately all seem fine...


Exhaust pipe/muffler mounts are fine, they are hitting somewhere. I have a small crack at the passenger side manifold which disappears after warm up due to expansion but since working on vehicles as an amateur I never saw them cause speed related vibration.

But I am noting down all your ideas such like TRE, engine/transmission mounts, to work them on again.

I've read many threads, starts with an issue, people comment on it, and the thread owner usually disappears without sharing the conclusion. I am going to keep sharing experiences and if I can conclude it, gonna share all the story like I do now.

I am still open to gather your ideas. Thanks.
 

94SRUNNER

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I didn't see it mention, but could have missed it. Have you had the wheels/tires balanced? Maybe weights got knocked off?
 
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********** I actually didn't understand the seal or sealant in between halves thing :D I am sorry for that.

Back to vibration, it appears after a certain speed and never decreases. I never get it on the steering wheel ****
"********** I actually didn't understand the seal or sealant in between halves thing :D I am sorry for that."
The front caliper are separated in to two halves, circled in red.

urD9u9.jpg


I'm asking is any seal or sealant was found here circled in yellow?
As the small holes, is a high pressure canal between the halves piston chambers. Being brake fluid canal, not just any seal or sealant can be used.

tQFC9I.jpg


BTW: I love your metal top bench with vise.

"Back to vibration, it appears after a certain speed and never decreases. I never get it on the steering wheel ****"
If you don't feel in steering wheel, than not likely front end issue. But I agree, still needs considerations!
 
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"********** I actually didn't understand the seal or sealant in between halves thing :D I am sorry for that."
The front caliper are separated in to two halves, circled in red.



I'm asking is any seal or sealant was found here circled in yellow?
As the small holes, is a high pressure canal between the halves piston chambers. Being brake fluid canal, not just any seal or sealant can be used.



BTW: I love your metal top bench with vise.

"Back to vibration, it appears after a certain speed and never decreases. I never get it on the steering wheel ****"
If you don't feel in steering wheel, than not likely front end issue. But I agree, still needs considerations!

Oups, now I got it, the brake hydraulic pressure line sealers in between calipers. You mentioned at the first page that you never saw before them divided, I should have understood from that post :D

Yes, its also possible to do it without dividing them. Just wanted to make more detailed and easier (pistons were really hard) on the bench and also gonna replace the screwish thing which holds them together. Yes there was a sealer as you mentioned (don't know factory or not but should be factory) before got'em cleaned. Also gonna keep that in mind and noting down the brake hydraulic sealer. You must be damn right cuz hydraulic is very abrasive and pressure there is huge.

---BTW: I love your metal top bench with vise.---

Thanks local products with good quality and reasonable prices :D
 
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New update, today I finished the brake calipers rebuild job, new cv axles, new UCA and new LCA bushings, new hub flanges and caps, new bearings etc... some other small things and also brand new lower off set wheels. Before wheels were -44 off set 16x10, now I changed them to ET0 16x8 wheels with 265 75 16 AT tires.
Vibration thing %50 got better, but still there. Now it's something I can live with that. But I am pretty sure that vibe decreased due to newer drivetrain stuff and wheels, vehicle feels really tight, which made me really happy. There is nothing left to fix/change/inspect to cause vibration. A 25 years of experienced Land Cruiser mechanic told me that its my driveshafts most probably tailshaft. I already got them fixed but he insists I need new ones. He's maybe right or not I dont know but he said once they get damaged or fixed or painted, something happens to cause them go out of factory condition, its really hard to turn them back to their factory condition, maybe the telescopic slider... etc. Anyway, vehicle is fine now, very very deep harmonic balance speed related, nothing on the steering wheel, I let someone to drive it for me and I was at the back seat, feels a bit more on the back seat.

My next step will be get focused on the shafts again, but I am pretty fine with the vehicle now, its very cold nowadays I maybe turn them back in March.

And a perfect surprise, after brake caliper rebuild, OMG, brakes are awesome, excellent. They definitely feel like brand new vehicle brakes. I also had a brand new Toyota Hilux, its a 4x4 pick up truck, I easily can say that brakes feel better then that. Sticky pedal issue gone, pedal is loaded, as you release it bang! hits up. When you apply brake, feeling an instant bite, front end dives equally like champ without tendancy to right or left on a approx 3 tons of vehicle.

I still have clunk issue, I read everthing about them here, but its not that loud, maybe front diff bushings or differential backlash increased or misaligned cuz previous owner did a front air locker job to front diff. Not urgent and not that bad as I saw the videos here, totally able to live with it, delayed. No hard metal shavings on the diff drain magnet.

I have a question, I will search for shafts from junkyards, mine is 2001 but most of LC100 are 2003+ here. Can a fit a newer 2003+ LC100 shafts to mine?

Thanks in advance.
 
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abuck99

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Your cruiser mechanic is right. I mentioned earlier that these drivelines are sensitive ( easy to increase NVH) to minor changes. When I noticed your driveline guy had painted over the undercoating, the slip yoke, the ujoint spiders I knew then it wouldn't be right. The undercoating needed to be sanded off- just put the driveshaft on the balancer and use a section of 120 grit belt sander paper and spin the shaft and remove the undercoating- then clear coat or paint only the shaft (if you must)- not the slip joint or the u-joints.

You spent plenty already, don't bother with used drive shafts you'll have even more issues. Order new one. You can have one shipped from Dubai

-44 offset is that a typo?? Thats a big contributor to your NVH.
 
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Your cruiser mechanic is right. I mentioned earlier that these drivelines are sensitive ( easy to increase NVH) to minor changes. When I noticed your driveline guy had painted over the undercoating, the slip yoke, the ujoint spiders I knew then it wouldn't be right. The undercoating needed to be sanded off- just put the driveshaft on the balancer and use a section of 120 grit belt sander paper and spin the shaft and remove the undercoating- then clear coat or paint only the shaft (if you must)- not the slip joint or the u-joints.

You spent plenty already, don't bother with used drive shafts you'll have even more issues. Order new one. You can have one shipped from Dubai

-44 offset is that a typo?? Thats a big contributor to your NVH.

Well, youre right. You were right actually. Shaft will be done again but I dont give chance that much, and I'll buy a new one. Thanks for Dubai option, before I will ask Toyota, If they dont demand a ransom will be easier otherwise will think some other option like UAE.

-44 is truth, previous owner was a microsurgeon he couldn't be blind but... you know some people are galaxies away from vehicle basics...
 
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To the OPs original question I can't see how that paint would possibly throw off the balance of the DS causing vibrations. I'm ashamed to admit I slopped a bunch of POR15 on my DS and then never rotated it to paint the other side, and that paint goes on pretty thick. No vibration issues to note. Great shame on me
 

abuck99

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It was undercoating the length of driveshaft not paint. And yes it will affect balance enough to notice it.
 
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To the OPs original question I can't see how that paint would possibly throw off the balance of the DS causing vibrations. I'm ashamed to admit I slopped a bunch of POR15 on my DS and then never rotated it to paint the other side, and that paint goes on pretty thick. No vibration issues to note. Great shame on me

Well... yours maybe out of balance but not as much as you can feel. Depends on many things, for my vehicle, such like maybe previous owner somehow damaged it, then get it fixed, I dont know, maybe the guy who balanced it could not do it properly.
You maybe have an alive AHC which can tolerate tiny deep balance issues better in comparison to my ARB OME ##bla bla stone rock solid carved marble suspension setup.
 
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I just solved my vibration that started after AHC delete. Chased the same vibration for a month or so. Came down to SIDE MOUNTING BOLTS on the DIFFERENTIAL MOUNTING BRACKET. The FMS suggests 50ft lbs. Set mine to 42ft lbs and my 100 is back to Cadillac smooth. There’s four 18mm bolts that go through the differential mount and the frame. If they are too tight, the vibration from diff. is unable to dampen and is sent through the entire chassis. Hope this helps.
 
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I just solved my vibration that started after AHC delete. Chased the same vibration for a month or so. Came down to SIDE MOUNTING BOLTS on the DIFFERENTIAL MOUNTING BRACKET. The FMS suggests 50ft lbs. Set mine to 42ft lbs and my 100 is back to Cadillac smooth. There’s four 18mm bolts that go through the differential mount and the frame. If they are too tight, the vibration from diff. is unable to dampen and is sent through the entire chassis. Hope this helps.
You mean front diff, right?
 
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You mean front diff, right?
Yes I do.

I installed Slee differential drop bracket when I did AHC delete. When trying to shake down the vibration, I added some torque to the side mounting bolts on the bracket. Vibration got worst. So I loosened them up and set them to 42ft lbs. Vibration is almost 100% gone. I do notice the vibration a little after the truck gets hot from driving, but it’s only a fraction of what it was. I believe I have a CV axle (cheap Napa part that PO installed) that’s 80% and will also need to be replaced.
 
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Yes I do.

I installed Slee differential drop bracket when I did AHC delete. When trying to shake down the vibration, I added some torque to the side mounting bolts on the bracket. Vibration got worst. So I loosened them up and set them to 42ft lbs. Vibration is almost 100% gone. I do notice the vibration a little after the truck gets hot from driving, but it’s only a fraction of what it was. I believe I have a CV axle (cheap Napa part that PO installed) that’s 80% and will also need to be replaced.

Such a valuable information for me.

Front diff mount brackets and their bushings on my suspecteds list, cuz I have the famous clunk as well. I just called my Toyota Dealer and told them to bring me three of the OEM front diff mounts somehow. I will take the front diff out in order to fix my leaking front air locker as well. So I install it back with new mounts, with proper torque. 42 ft lbs should be around 50 nm (we are metric here)

Driveshafts still on the list, I will go for a test ride without one shaft when have time.

I will keep this thread until I find the exact reason.

Thank you so much.
 

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