very simple questions (1 Viewer)

[johnny]

1) do i need a gasket b/w my weber and the mounting plates or just b/w the plates and then intake manifold

2) what does it mean when i split the exhaust/intake man. gasket? it split b/w exhaust on cyl. 4-5. its 1 year old and the kevlar one?

3) where's the carb, preheat flapper valve?

thanks in advance

 

[toddslater]

Well, here goes a stab at it.

1) do i need a gasket b/w my weber and the mounting plates or just b/w the plates and then intake manifold
yep

2) what does it mean when i split the exhaust/intake man. gasket? it split b/w exhaust on cyl. 4-5. its 1 year old and the kevlar one?
not sure where your going here ..a little more info would be helpful...are you asking about the gasket that is between the intake and exhaust manifold ?

3) where's the carb, preheat flapper valve?
the flapper valve is located in the lower section of the exhaust manifold...just above (maybe midway) the flange for the downpipe.

 

[johnny]

as to #2. i was just wander if there should be any concern. after inspection it looks like its just the gasket was really crappy. after it was heated it became very stiff and cracked and broke very easily.

tip of the day. don't buy the kevlar manifold gasket, its total crap.

as to #1...yep to gaskets b/w the carb body and geaskets for all the plates, or yep to just the plates.

 

[toddslater]

To no. 1 gaskets between manifold and plate and gasket between plates and gasket between carb and plate.

Regarding no 2. if it is the manifold (to head) gasket that is giving you woes...replace with a Felpro and use liberal amounts of permatex copper.

 

[Eternal]

on #2 I found also that if the your manifold is warped at all like mine is I used 2 gaskets together and it works perfect.


Best of luck

Eternal-still not movin

 

[plan66]

For Q1, Gaskets everywhere as mentioned. You might want to use a thicker heat insulator type gasket if you find the carb getting too hot. Otherwise can get fuel boiling in the float boal .
Q2: If you don't hear the exhaust leak yet, you might just put off pulling the manifolds for now. Although yours should go no problem if you replaced it a year ago. You did use high heat antiseize on the exhaust studs right :?

 

[johnny]

everything is fine now. i never knew of the flapper cuz i've never had one in my ride. i always had headers, i got my crusher from my brother and i only know how to fix whats on it. so i plead my ignorance in the case of a flapper and ballast resistor that i have never had.

as for the ex/in. gesket, i already put on my new one and figure i didn't need to use copper. if i am mistaken please someone warn me, i'd rather redo it now before i put the carb on.

thanks

 

[FJKen]

Johnny:  I replaced my exhaust/intake gasket a couple months ago.  Took Todd's advice on the permatex,  :bow:  and I used a double gasket from felpro on Todd's advice also.  It has worked flawlessly, and I think it will hold for a long time.  I guess my .02 is that you don't want to do it again in 6 months..or even a year.  I don't think you screwed up by using only one gasket and no permatex.. now..if you had headers...I'd say take it off and do it again.   Good luck either way!

 

[johnny]

thanks and thanks. advice taken, double gaskets, much apreciation.

 

[Webster]

IS the permatex copper you refer to the spray stuff or the copper RTV in the tube. Is the felpro gasker the metal faced style or the composition gasket. I have a leaky manifold with brand new gasket need to try your ideas. &nbspoes it help to bold down the manifold to the head before tightening the heat riser bolts?

Thanks!

 

[toddslater]

webster,
It's the permatex high temp copper rtv in a tube. The permatex gasket (part number MS 22813) has metal (for the lack of a better word or clear thinking today) embosses around the intake and exhaust ports. My heavily subsidized and highly scientific research into the subject matter...(looked at the gasket provided with my header, looked at car quest brand, and looked at the Felpro) lead me to buying the Felpro. And, I would say yes to bolting up your exhaust manifold with out the heat riser. FWIW, I found it easiest to get good alignment by bolting up the exhaust with the first and last (furtherst forward and furthest rearward) first. Align it and snug it down pretty good then bring on the intake etc...