I picked up a remanufactured garrett GT3782v turbo last night and am curious if any of you guys have used a variable vane in any of your builds and what you used to control the vanes during boost. I remember reading through some posts awhile back about using diesel turbos on a couple builds but nothing about controlling the vanes. Any help would be appreciated.
variable vane turbo question
- Thread starter KansasLX
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those other threads might have been about using wastegated diesel turbos.
afaik there is no off-the-shelf control solution for a vnt turbo. strictly diy.
here's one: http://dmn.kuulalaakeri.org/vnt-lda/
afaik there is no off-the-shelf control solution for a vnt turbo. strictly diy.
here's one: http://dmn.kuulalaakeri.org/vnt-lda/
- Thread starter
- #3
I am wondering if I can't perhaps just bypass the vanes all together and just have them in the open position and use a external wastegate like a conventional turbo would use and not have to worry about the vanes or any of that, what do you think? I got the turbo from a friend of mine for 130 so Im not out much if I can't use it.
Even if the turbo vanes were locked open, it is a little bit too small for the 1FZ-FE. I know the name would suggest differently. Being that it is a 3782 and a 3582 is a pretty great fit, but
A 3582 has a max flow of about 76lbs of air
the 3782 has a max flow of about 55lbs of air even though it is a largish turbo, it runs a very small exhaust housing because it is used in Deisel applications and they do not rev very high, so it is choked out.
The turbo I have on my truck which is really about as small as I would go can flow about 64lbs of air but I an not running that much boost.
The problem with using a turbo that is too small for the engine is that you are overworking the turbo for moderate boost levels which in turn means a lot more heat, and much higher shaft speeds.
If you are only going to turn 10psi or so it would probably work pretty good. One of the other good things about the smaller turbo is that you are on the compresser map very early so you would be boosting almost instantly. But since you are always going to be in boost with any amount of load, much like a diesel you will need a well thought out charge cooling system.
A 3582 has a max flow of about 76lbs of air
the 3782 has a max flow of about 55lbs of air even though it is a largish turbo, it runs a very small exhaust housing because it is used in Deisel applications and they do not rev very high, so it is choked out.
The turbo I have on my truck which is really about as small as I would go can flow about 64lbs of air but I an not running that much boost.
The problem with using a turbo that is too small for the engine is that you are overworking the turbo for moderate boost levels which in turn means a lot more heat, and much higher shaft speeds.
If you are only going to turn 10psi or so it would probably work pretty good. One of the other good things about the smaller turbo is that you are on the compresser map very early so you would be boosting almost instantly. But since you are always going to be in boost with any amount of load, much like a diesel you will need a well thought out charge cooling system.
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- Thread starter
- #6
I am not quite to sure what you mean by very small exhaust housing, the housing itself is roughly 8" across and the exhaust entry is 2.5" and the exhaust exit is about 2 7/8", actual inside dia. The turbine wheel itself for the inducer is 72.25mm and the exducer is 66.45mm with a AR of .9 and the compressor is 58mm for the inducer and 81.55mm for the exducer with a AR of .58.
If I use the turbo I plan to run 8psi with a max of 10. I know it would be ideal to get a non variable vane turbo but this is more of a budget build for me and if I can get it to work then I'll use it. If I can't get it to work then on to bigger and better turbos. I haven't played with turbos for close to 10 years or better so I am a little rough getting back into it all. Fab work and welding I am good at though so no worries there, if I decide to go forward with this I should have it up and going before I leave for work again mid July. First thing is first, take the exhaust housing off and see what can be done about those vanes.
If I use the turbo I plan to run 8psi with a max of 10. I know it would be ideal to get a non variable vane turbo but this is more of a budget build for me and if I can get it to work then I'll use it. If I can't get it to work then on to bigger and better turbos. I haven't played with turbos for close to 10 years or better so I am a little rough getting back into it all. Fab work and welding I am good at though so no worries there, if I decide to go forward with this I should have it up and going before I leave for work again mid July. First thing is first, take the exhaust housing off and see what can be done about those vanes.
The exhaust housing AR is. 0.9? That doesn't sound right, if those measurements are right something doesn't add up. only moving 55lbs of air with wheels that big there has to be restriction on the exhaust side.
If it is an electronically controlled turbo can you just get a set voltage to get the vanes where you want them and remove the voltage and have it stay that way? I haven't messed with variables at all
If it is an electronically controlled turbo can you just get a set voltage to get the vanes where you want them and remove the voltage and have it stay that way? I haven't messed with variables at all
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- Thread starter
- #8
those AR numbers are right off the housing and I measured the openings and width of the housing. The turbine and compressor numbers are the right numbers also. Where did you come up with it was only moving 55lbs of air?
From garrett's website, pulled their compressor map
- Thread starter
- #10
I was just looking at them, I was looking at the turbine side for flow and not the compressor side which is why i asked. The GT3782 they have on their site is not the same as the GT3782v. The AR numbers are different as are the compressor and turbine sizes. Though not by much they still are different from what I have. Not sure what the differences equate to in flow numbers but I will give the turbo a go if I can and see what I end up with I suppose.
If you're going to stay around 10psi you will be fine I bet, that's like 375hp on the compressor map.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
few old school VGT are vacuum controlled .. maybe another option there.
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- #13
I was aware what I bought was a variable vane and wasn't too concerned with it, was just seeing if anyone on here had experience with getting an electrical vane setup to work with their cruiser. Anywho, I will be using what I have until I find that it isn't efficient with the LX or it just plain won't work, at that point I will start looking at different turbos. This is going to be a budget built and I will be doing all the fab work involved.
So far the turbo has cost me $130 and is a reman unit with about 5k on it, the intercooler if I can find a place to mount it has cost me nothing(gift from a friend), and the external wastegate and BOV haven't cost me anything either since they were also gifts from the same friend who is giving me the intercooler. Thats what happens when you fab and instal a vortex blower on a trans am for next to nothing for all the fab and welding
I hope to start this as soon as I finish the remodel on my master bath, in a few days...
So far the turbo has cost me $130 and is a reman unit with about 5k on it, the intercooler if I can find a place to mount it has cost me nothing(gift from a friend), and the external wastegate and BOV haven't cost me anything either since they were also gifts from the same friend who is giving me the intercooler. Thats what happens when you fab and instal a vortex blower on a trans am for next to nothing for all the fab and welding
I hope to start this as soon as I finish the remodel on my master bath, in a few days...
