valve cover removal help?

[DeeLX]

Finally getting around to replacing a leaky VC gasket on my 97 lx450. After discovering that the rear VC bolts were only finger tight at best, I could have just tightened them up. However I was knee deep into a job, and decided to keep going.

I removed the throttle body (and cleaned), and now have the VC loose, but the far end of the VC will not lift high enough to clear the spark plug tubes, due to a black metal tube (near the fire wall) that connects to a 2 1/2" hose (on the other end of 2 1/2" hose another black metal U shaped tube which connects to more hose).

Seems like I need to remove this tube, but as you can tell, I'm pretty clueless as to what I am doing.

If I had a FSM, I could tell you the names of these thing, and for that matter, I could probably complete the job. I did do a search for answeres, but came up with nadda.

If anyone could help me out, I would be eternally grateful.
Sorry no pics.

p.s. any mudders around Flathead Lake, Montana? Thanks

 

[DeeLX]

heater valve?

a little more searching has lead me to this pipe/tube is part of the heater valve. With all the hoses having the cotter pin style clamps, I'm guessing they should all be replaced. Any advice on how to go about this job? OEM would be nice, but a bit impractical (extending the vehicle down-time). Would any Napa have what I need, as far as hose size and new clamps? And would they also have new vacume hoses for the throttle body? Or is it worth waiting on the OEM for the hoses? thanks. one more question- how do you open the cotter pin clamps?

 

[ALCO]

Napa should have the standard 5/8" heater hose and clamps for the job.
I very carefully cut my cotter pin clamps with a dremel tool. Take a sample of the vacuum hose to Napa. It's probably a standard size also.

p.s. It's important not to sit or lean on the radiator tank while working/reaching the back of the engine bay as it can cause a split. I put a big board across the fenders and lay on that.

 

[sswong98]

I just changed my valve cover gasket on my 1994 LC. I didn't have to remove the heater valve. All I did was unbolt from the firewall and moved it around to pull the VC off. The one creative solution to screw back the lower bolts to the throttle body was put a little tape around the 12 mm bolt and socket. I did not have a magnetic socket.

 

[alia176]

Yup, just remove the heater valve assembly away from the firewall and that should allow you sufficient wiggle room.

Regarding your vacuum hoses, good idea on replacing as many as you can with Toyota oem or metric hoses. Standard 3/16" hoses won't make a snug connection and not worth your time.

Since you have the throttle body off, you could take the time to clean out the large and small ports.

 

[DeeLX]

VC off, but still fighting the spark plug gaskets

Thank you everyone for your help. I landed up removing the two old hoses (that connects to the U shape pipe) and then had enough wiggle room to pull the VC. Initially I had plans to remove and replace all those hoses, but the two hoses (Heater Bypass?) that go to the firewall, look like a real chore to get to. I think I read a post where someone said the VC gasket takes about half an hour. Mine should be done in about half a week. I'm sure if I had to do it again (knock on wood that I don't) I could do it in 3-4 hours. But I'm learning as I go, and my bag o'tools is small. --------------------------------------------------------------- ---------- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- One question I still have -- -- Has anyone used the Ultra-Gray Rigid FIPG by Permitex for sealing up the half-moons? --------------------------------------------- Good Stuff? If and when I get it buttoned back up, and everything works like it should, I feel like I may have earned my 2 banana badge. Thanks

 

[Higgin]

The valve cover should take half an hour?? Seems like there is a lot of stuff to have to take off for a half hour job. Maybe I'm completely wrong though. Maybe you don't have to remove as much as I thought. I figured it would be a 3-4 hour job. I have the gasket sitting in my apt right now just waiting to go on, but after doin the front axle service last week and now having a brake problem because of it, I'm ready for a break, lol. Once I get the truck to the point where I can actually drive it again, then I'll start thinking about the valve cover gasket. Has anyone done a step by step write up on here to do the VCG? That would be a big help.

 

[sswong98]

You are correct that changing the VC gasket is typically 1/2 hour job. However, you have to remove the throttle body in order to lift up the vc cover over the spark plug tube. While you have the throttle body out, you might as well clean it. I also found changing the pcv valve easier with the VC off the car. I took my time, so the entire project took 3 hours, including changing the spark plugs.

My heater valve hoses were recently changed out, so for me it was great to just move around. My VC gasket and sparkplug tube rings were solid as a rock. No wonder it was leaking oil.

One other thing. Before bolting the throttle body back on, I reconnected the lower throttle cable which I think goes to the tranny. Thought it was easier to connect since it was towards the bottom.

 

[DeeLX]

Done...

Got her buttoned back up and everything appears tight. I used the advice to put the lower cable on prior to bolting up the the throttle body. Had I not mixed up the proper location of all the cables, it would have been a real time saver. I am getting a couple miles per gallon on my gas mileage, and attribute it to fresh spark plugs (must change those more often). I wonder what new plug wires would do? I replaced all the hoses that are only accessible with the TB and off, changed out the large coolant hoses as well as the thermostat. Three flushes on the cooling system with a final 50/50 of generic coolant (with the same formula as Mr. T red ) and distilled water Oh yeah, I cleaned the TB and IAC. I used the Screwdriver method to tighten the valve cover bolts, and gave them all I had in me. I will re-check for tightness in a week. The ultra-gray FPIG for the half-moons seems to be just fine, and although it is labeled as "rigid" it dries very pliable. Next project to tackle is a front axle service with new bearings, and the PHH. Again, Any 80 guru's around Flathead lake???? thanks to all for their input.

 

[super90]

Good for you!

Might want to replace that heater valve and hoses. That thing gets brittle and breaks ! See this link:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/285050-check-your-heater-valve.html