V8 Radiator vs. Stock Rad Feedback

[Toadhopper]

So I did a SBC (TBI) swap a while back and I'm considering going with an Aluminum Rad and I wanted to see if anyone who has done the same has feedback on the difference between the stock rad and the alum. V8 replacement.
I notice I run at normal thermostat temp when the outside temp is 80F or below, but when it gets into the 90s and above I start to run hotter (195-200).
I had a good shroud fabricated and I seem to be moving the air well enough, but once I added the winch the temp increases on the freeway.
I havent hooked the A/C back up yet because I want to get the cooling under control first.
Some folks have posted no cooling issues on 100+ days using the stock rad, but my temp seems to creep up on me on the freeway cruising at 3K rpms. I brought the rad into a rad shop and had it checked for blockages before final install and the guy said it was good to go. Its a CCOT rad about 4 years old.
I've swapped thermos to a stant high flow and there was no change.
I'm running a milodon high flow water pump and a Hayes heavy duty fan clutch
So I guess I'm wondering if the V8 alum rads are really worth the cost?
Thanks,
Bryan

 

[lehiguy]

My last brass radiator was falling apart, so I tried a Summit Racing universal aluminum, which was a pain because I had to fab all the mounts and it was short lived. So I bought a Champion aluminum radiator on Ebay, direct replacement, no fabbing. It does not allow any "gauge creep" at all, I'm pleased with it, and it cost 1/2 what the brass ones do now.

 

[dbleon]

My last brass radiator was falling apart, so I tried a Summit Racing universal aluminum, which was a pain because I had to fab all the mounts and it was short lived. So I bought a Champion aluminum radiator on Ebay, direct replacement, no fabbing. It does not allow any "gauge creep" at all, I'm pleased with it, and it cost 1/2 what the brass ones do now.

^^^ X2. I have 10k+ miles on my V8 swap... no problems. Gauge never goes above 198* on highway, rarely creeps above 202 sitting in traffic... no fan shroud either.

 

[Ridge Runner]

How long have y'all had your Champions? I'm planning both arctic and desert trips, so I need to make sure I get a reliable one.

 

[MANUCHAO]

Im installing one of these radiators....

Any of you know what type/size thread for the tranny cooling lines ?
I see they are flared.

Thanks,

Its good to hear from two folks now that these champion rads are doing the job...!!

 

[Toadhopper]

Thanks!
Keep the input coming!

 

[lehiguy]

How long have y'all had your Champions? I'm planning both arctic and desert trips, so I need to make sure I get a reliable one.

I live in Utah. We have two seasons; Arctic and desert. I put mine in last spring. I have yet to do the Arctic thing, but I don't see that as being nearly so taxing as the hot summer weather.

 

[Toadhopper]

So, Higuy what is your normal running temp?
When you say no creep, what kinds of loads are you putting on it (AC, hills, towing, crawling)?
Are you running elec fan or fan clutch?
When I look at some of the more spendy ones (Ron Davis) it seems too good to be true ($200 Champion vs. $600 Ron Davis).

 

[lcwizard]

For a TBI , 200~225 HP the 60 radiator has enough surface area that it should be fine assuming there
is no blockage in the system. I would guess shroud would be the issue. As a test place your hand behind the fan in the airflow while the engine is running. A correctly positioned shroud will throw the air out at a 45 degree angle from the face of the radiator. If most the air is throwing straight back you are probably getting cavitation inside the shroud and little air is actually drawn through the core. The fan should not extend more than 2/3's into the shroud. If the fan extends deeper than that you should trim it accordingly.

 

[Toadhopper]

For a TBI , 200~225 HP the 60 radiator has enough surface area that it should be fine assuming there
is no blockage in the system. I would guess shroud would be the issue. As a test place your hand behind the fan in the airflow while the engine is running. A correctly positioned shroud will throw the air out at a 45 degree angle from the face of the radiator. If most the air is throwing straight back you are probably getting cavitation inside the shroud and little air is actually drawn through the core. The fan should not extend more than 2/3's into the shroud. If the fan extends deeper than that you should trim it accordingly.

Thanks LC.
I was always taught that if your heating issues occur at city speeds (less that 35mph) you issue is usually an airflow issue (shroud or fan clutch) and if you issues occur on the freeway its more of a capacity issue. My SBC is pretty tame. My issue got worse once the Winch Bumper was installed so maybe the flow is jacked up?
I'll have to check the angle tomorrow. Maybe when I set the angle of the SBC I set it incorrectly and the airflow isn't set right? I seem to have a pretty strong pull from the front side of the rad, but maybe it IS an angle issue. I'll post a pic of the fan to shroud orientation tomorrow and look for some feedback. I know I dont have the fan buried too deep as I was aware that would cause issues, but I may be wrong.

 

[Dynosoar]

I am considering swapping back to stock too. I like the idea of running a mechanical fan vs. an elec. When I first did my swap I ran it with the stock rad / mech fan for a few years. I found it would heat up on long grades and pack in the heat (230F) with the A/C load when the ambient temp was >90F. Below 90 it would run right on the thermostat (185F). I run an engine oil cooler, a trans cooler (both 6x11 plate style) as well as the A/C condenser in front of the rad. I will be keeping an eye on this thread for results.

PS I never had a low speed problem it only heated up at Hwy speeds. It never boiled over though.

Dyno

 

[dbleon]

How long have y'all had your Champions? I'm planning both arctic and desert trips, so I need to make sure I get a reliable one.

About 1 year, 10k miles.

FWIW I've pulled long mountain grades, towed a little, and have zero issues. I do not have A/c yet...

For the price of the RonDavis, You buy two and take one as a spare during trips to BFN destinations.....

Cheers

 

[Elbert]

I've been running an aftermarket 4 core brass type replacement radiator...5.7 vortec / manual trans.
GM fan and fan clutch (1999 Pickup/SUV). fabbed up shroud.

when the temp are blow 80F I generally don't have issues. I run 195 thermostat, and have functional A/C.
When it gets above 90 or so...without a/c I don't have issues at low speed, with A/C i'm ok at at low speeds most of the time but the truck will run around 200F-215.

Driving at speed wt high temps (ambient around 90, the truck wants to run 220 or so. WHich I think is related to the fan shround not letting enough air pass through the entire core of the radiator. The truck will cool down at idle without a problem.

What is the part number on the champion radiator your guys are talking about?

I had a ron davis radiator for a whille (i still have it) but it has a crack somewhere along the bottom edge where the core meets the lower tank. It lasted about 1.5 years before it cracked but in my mind it was way too expensive an item not to last longer. I mounted it as suggested using all the rubber isoloators...

 

[MANUCHAO]

I ran a AA rad $500 for the last 4-5 years.. it started leaking one year after I installed it and has been repaired 3 times... however this last time it is pissing antifreeze all over.. so that's that...

Elbert, you can find them on e-bay...with free shipping.
I bought mine from this guys who are local to me... http://www.championradiators.com/page/423197596

 

[Toadhopper]

I ran a AA rad $500 for the last 4-5 years.. it started leaking one year after I installed it and has been repaired 3 times... however this last time it is pissing antifreeze all over.. so that's that...

Elbert, you can find them on e-bay...with free shipping.
I bought mine from this guys who are local to me... http://www.championradiators.com/page/423197596

PS
I also talked with a guy at Ron Davis who recommended goin OEM for the H2O pump. He says many of the non oem ones dont have the tolerances so they create cavitation and can't produce the block pressure needed (FWIW)

 

[Elbert]

these champion radiators...as noted on EBAY say OE replacement.. Do they mount in the stock location without modification?

 

[dbleon]

^^^...yes... Radiator cap is different though.

 

[lehiguy]

So, Higuy what is your normal running temp?
When you say no creep, what kinds of loads are you putting on it (AC, hills, towing, crawling)?
Are you running elec fan or fan clutch?
When I look at some of the more spendy ones (Ron Davis) it seems too good to be true ($200 Champion vs. $600 Ron Davis).

I have a lot of HP on tap when I want it, I like to fly up hills, I do occasionaly pull trailers, (last week I got on a scale at the landfill, my trailer was 6000 pounds). It never gets past the center of the gauge no matter what. This was a hot summer, 100+ for what seemed like an eternity, no issues. I have a fan clutch but no shroud, it doesn't seem to matter. I run a 195 degree thermostat because I don't like to be cold in the winter.

 

[Ridge Runner]

I went ahead and ordered one yesterday.

 

[dozerking]

I am running a tbi and my stock radiator wasnt in the best shape and would do fine if it wasnt hot out but once summer hit and i tried to pull a hill it was a pull over and let it cool down kinda thing i dont care what anyone says you HAVE TO HAVE A SHROUD to pull a hill when its super hot pulling a trailer or not it will get way hotter than it wants to be! i got this radiator from summit SUM-380325 and it works awesome it lowered the temps by prolly 25% i took it to a fab shop and they welded on mounts for the shroud that i built and some for the factory mounts works great for me so far!!!