UZ Swap into RJ77 (picture heavy)

[FullyLitLED]

Hey guys,

I know there are purists on this forum so please don't flame me

I wanted to document everything in this swap down to the hardware. I know alot of build threads are out there but there are some people that try to gatekeep information. I’ve been on the other end of that…it sucks asking for info and being left on seen lol. This thread is targeted to the rookies like myself doing a swap. Always be safe, also follow stuff on here (instructions/information) at your own risk!

I started this build months ago and I'm at about 80% to getting it running and driving...well unless I plan to do even more stuff alot of us know how that goes!


I will try to update the part numbers as I go along and also try to be as detailed as possible.

This whole build was built by me with some small stuff getting outsourced (wiring, AN fittings, etc) but generally, it was my built in my driveway. Original cruiser was an RJ77 with a 22R and G52 transmission. That motor finally gave out last November and had to come up with a way to repower this thing. It was a decision between a UZ, LS, and a Cummins R2.8 for the new motor. I was somewhat of a purist so I went with the UZ...also the R2.8 being like 14k in just parts was kind of expensive for me. For comparison and I mention it later again, I bought a 3UZ donor car 2005 LS430 for $1400 running but sideswiped. I pulled the motor out and made about $2500 from parting out the car. The extra money I made went into buying the transfercases and transmission. I'm about $900 into this build now. Trying to keep it under $5000 (which is the cost of rebuilding that 22R). I sold that 22R for $1000 as a core. So that helps keep the cost down.

When I first started the build I actually had a 1UZ engine that I mocked up the drivetrain with. Well...take it as a lessons learned and buy the whole donor vehicle and not just the motor. When I was trying to buy the parts to get that donor motor running...it actually calculated out to costing more than a whole donor car that you could see running.

Enter...the 3UZ. I got the running car which had been side swiped for like $1400 and I pulled the motor out and parted out the rest of the usable parts on the car. Ended up getting my motor for free and also making about $2500 (and counting) from parting out the car. The 3UZ donor is a 2005 LS430 with just over a 100k miles. I mocked up the drivetrain while using the original light duty (KZJ, LJ, RJ) front end and later on switched to the VDJ front end. If it fit in the older models it definitely fit behind the VDJ front end!

Trying to document this build (kind of back tracking since I did a lot of the progress already) so that other people have the courage to do this swap. Before this swap I was doing just regular maintenance and no real custom work.

Stay tuned for updates! I also update on my instagram page which also has username FullyLitLED first post has photos from the last trail ride with the 22R!

————Running parts list————

*Engine

3UZ from a 2005 LS430

SC400 OEM headers


*Engine Management System

OEM 3UZ 6speed Auto ECU flashed by @LexusV8 Engines for manual application. OEM engine loom has been refreshed with new connectors where needed. SC430 throttle pedal will be used due to ease of mounting position

*Transmission and Transfercase

R150F 5 speed from a 1994 4runner 4x4 (removed the chain driven VF1A transfercase)

Advanced Adapters for V6 23 spline Transmission to RF1A 21 spline gear driven transfercase PN: 50-5708

Dual RF1A transfercases with 2.27:1 reduction mated using Advanced Adapters PN: 50-5905D

*Cooling System

Speedway 31 inch radiator PN: 917347-31

Speedway 31 inch radiator fan shroud and fans with wiring PN: 9175024-31

Mishimoto 10 row oil cooler with 8 AN fittings PN: MMOC-10-8SL (ordered one for power steering and one with engine oil)

Mishimoto Z line intercooler PN: MMINT-UZ

Vintage Air 24” x 14” Condenser PN: 03263-VUC (Will be running a Vintage Air Heat-Cool-Defrost unit in the future)


*Fuel System

Walbro Pump PN: 960-392

Walbro Pump install kit PN: 960-939

Walbro pump 6 AN fittings (2) PN: 960-3039

Speedway Fuel Filter with 6 AN feed, return, outlet PN: 910-12808

Mr. Gasket 6AN 3 sided male tee PN: 550482406

Vibrant Performance m12x1.25 to 6 AN (2) PN: ADF-6J12125M

 

[FullyLitLED]

Alot of people were telling me to just rebuild the 22R and swap in a 22RE. Well...it wasn't an option for very long as they are getting very expensive to rebuild and parts are getting more and more difficult. A typical UZ can net triple the horsepower and torque of a beat/stock 22R. I loved the truck but needed a little more power since I plan on carrying a lot of gear and towing a small trailer.

First things first...I went with NorthWestToys 22R to UZ mounts. Alot of the 4runner/mini truck guys use these and need a 1" body lift. In the RJ77, it works without it! Very important side note...1UZ and 3UZ share the same engine mount pattern. The 2UZ is different! I went with a 1UZ originally because it has a much shorter intake height than the 2UZ...upgraded to a 3UZ later and it also is shorter than a 3UZ in terms of height. It looks kind of like a 2UZ at first glance with the engine cover off. I actually flipped the mounts so that the motor can scoot forward about an 1". Lots of clearance between the firewall and the back of the block. No need to sandwich hand in there to reach for things. Shifter lines up and also lots of clearance for the bellhousing!

For the transmission I could have bolted up the original landcruiser G52 and transfercase to the UZ via an adapter but a lot of people and some research said it was a bad idea due to the strength of the G52. So...I went and hunted down an R150 with a passenger side drop front and a centered rear driveshaft. I will figure out what to do with the centered drive shaft but I talked to @TachedOutOffRoad running an FJ55 body on a shortened 80 frame with my similar setup. So hopefully it works out.

The adapter from 1UZ/2UZ/3UZ I got from KS racing. The reason I went with this adapter is because it uses an OEM 1KZ hilux clutch. It does require you to weld the oem UZ starter ring to the supplied flywheel. Luckily, my neighbor helped me with that! One of my goals was to have easy serviceability. R150 are plenty and generally affordable. I didn't want to use an adapter that didn't have an OEM clutch in the event that I had to source one in the future, a proprietary clutch would potentially be a pain.

 

[FullyLitLED]

Here at the photos of the starter ring that had to be welded on. Side note...I could have used OEM starter ring bolts from the Lexus LS/GS/SC but I was being a nerd and sourced OEM manual 100 series flywheel bolts for a UZJ100 with a 5speed...wish we had that 100 in the US!

 

[FullyLitLED]

As I mentioned earlier, I upgraded from a 1UZ to a 3UZ because of the price of replacement parts. Man...no real improvement to the layout as they are the same size and footprint but here are some teaser 3UZ shots! I am not very good at remembering things so I labeled everything.

 

[FullyLitLED]

I guess technically this is an "LS" swap since it is an LS430 donor car either way...purists probably not enjoying this swap right now

I had to address the cooling package. So radiator and condenser will be first up. I wanted to use an HZJ radiator or a VDJ radiator since I have a VDJ front end but they were a pretty penny. I looked around and found the largest radiator I could fit. Ended up being a Speedway Motors LS swap radiator 31"x19"x3"...and the ports were on the correct side. The good news is Speedway also sells dual electric fan shroud and 12" fan kit. So this whole setup only set me back $400 with the wiring harness and thermoswitches. Speedway Motors part number: 9100246

I was going to run a 2UZ water pump housing and fan clutch but I wasn't sure about how spacing would play into it. It definitely has room to run it but if I added more accessories (story for later) then it would be tough. I also did not want to have to make a shroud for that OEM fan/fan clutch unit. This was I guess the easy way out...

The radiator tray my neighbor helped me form out of aluminum. More info on how that will be mounted later and how the radiator will be housed in a later post!

 

[cruisermatt]

why didn't you do the split-case version of the R150? (1HZ R151f). Available new inexpensively and you could just swap the proper input shaft in which is very easy. Then you would have the better transfer case with correct offsets.

 

[FullyLitLED]

Up next...so the headers clear. Good to note that the headers with what I found to be the best clearance are from an SC400 (yes, headers between a 1UZ, 2UZ, 3UZ are all interchangeable patterns. Steering shaft clears! I will need to work on something for the exhaust. My plan is to run down the passenger side header exit location like a 2UZ Tundra/Sequoia/Landcruiser

 

[FullyLitLED]

why didn't you do the split-case version of the R150? (1HZ R151f). Available new inexpensively and you could just swap the proper input shaft in which is very easy. Then you would have the better transfer case with correct offsets.

Good segway into my next post!

Because I am planning to run these little things! Dual gear driven transfercase with 2.27:1 reduction. Sadly...have to wait on Advanced Adapters to mate from the R150 to the twin tcases. Found the set already setup and paired on marketplace. Even found a dual transfercase mount locally.

 

[cruisermatt]

Man.. not to throw a wrench in your plans but I really think you'd be much better off with a splitcase and simple 3:1 gearset if you really want lower gearing. Dual cases are really not all they are cracked up to be especially in a full size truck "everyday" type truck. I have a doubler in my FJ62 and cant wait to get rid of it.

 

[FullyLitLED]

Next steps was to take the interior apart. I will be doing some form of sound deadening. Also looks like I won't be putting back any of the OEM AC components. I am looking into a vintage air Gen2. I am not yet convinced I should redo all the wiring but since I have a standalone engine harness I think I can do that later, but part of me wants to just run the Painless harness for the cab so all my wiring is new. However I heard the Painless can sometimes be PAINFUL. One thing I will add for sure...bulkhead connectors to make pulling the body/motor on and off easier in the future.

 

[OGBeno]

Screw the purists. Your truck. Do what you want. Stoked to see this conversion. And good call getting rid of the 22R-E.

 

[FullyLitLED]

Man.. not to throw a wrench in your plans but I really think you'd be much better off with a splitcase and simple 3:1 gearset if you really want lower gearing. Dual cases are really not all they are cracked up to be especially in a full size truck "everyday" type truck. I have a doubler in my FJ62 and cant wait to get rid of it.

Man I wish I talked to you sooner! There were a couple R151s for sale here on mud recently too I think I talked to you a year or two ago about converting my FJ45 UAE model to disc brake fronts...still can help with that?

 

[FullyLitLED]

VDJ front end I got from a guy on marketplace. Lots of room but don't worry, we'll fill all that up!

 

[cruisermatt]

Man I wish I talked to you sooner! There were a couple R151s for sale here on mud recently too I think I talked to you a year or two ago about converting my FJ45 UAE model to disc brake fronts...still can help with that?

The other thing I’ve learned after doing a lot of this kind of thing.. it’s never too late to abandon a bad idea. Another thing to keep in mind that doubler/adapter setup is designed for a lighter truck (4runner/mini) with less power. You’re putting it into a heavier rig with a V8. I had a lot of issues with that setup in a 4runner a few years ago.
45 brakes- sure, PM me.

 

[FullyLitLED]

Tight fit under the hood but it clears.

 

[FullyLitLED]

So...on a build I had 8 years ago...LS1 swap into a Lancer Evolution...I had the "I'll do _________ at a later time and just try this out for a while"

Well at that later time I wanted to add a turbo and had already done all this work on a car that I thought could add turbo setup easily...well it was more difficult to redo how stuff was laid out. I did it anyway but it was TOUGH!

This time...lessons learned. JUST IN CASE I wanted to add a turbo I mocked up using PVC piping (I am being cheap) and an intercooler where those would run. Glad to say there is a ton of room for 2.5-3" piping and a 2.5-3" intercooler core (Mishimoto). If I do run it in that location, I will raise it up about 3". I will do the final packaging of the front end cooling system to have the "future" intercooler with an engine oil cooler and power steering fluid cooler behind it.

As I said earlier, space will be used!

 

[FullyLitLED]

No that is not the winch that I will run, I need something like a 9.5xp. Just wanted to see if I can mount a winch between the frame rails and it looks like I can! Just need to buy a winch plate. Trying to mount it behind the bumper! My wife really wants her parking spot back told her when I started this project months ago it would only be "3 weeks". Really trying to achieve that poverty pack look but with a 3UZ sleeper underneath the bonnet.

 

[cruisermatt]

an S366 would go very nicely with this

 

[FullyLitLED]

Screw the purists. Your truck. Do what you want. Stoked to see this conversion. And good call getting rid of the 22R-E.

Really hoping it can be running by August/September!

 

[FullyLitLED]

an S366 would go very nicely with this

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