UWDave's 1fz Replacement

[tirewater]

Dave,

Are there any theories to why the oil pump bushing spun?

TBH, I don't know anything about that particular bushing. It works like a normal engine bearing where the axle rides on a cushion of oil correct? How is the oil pressurized into that bearing?

Any chance the the oil level was low or the oil pickup came out of the oil? Causing the oil pump bushing to spin? I spun a rod bearing at the track once, and one theory was that too much crank case pressure kept a lot of oil in the cylinder head (I don't know if I believe that theory, but it was tossed out there) - causing the oil pickup to suck air.

 

[UWdave]

Dave,

Are there any theories to why the oil pump bushing spun?

TBH, I don't know anything about that particular bushing. It works like a normal engine bearing where the axle rides on a cushion of oil correct? How is the oil pressurized into that bearing?

Any chance the the oil level was low or the oil pickup came out of the oil? Causing the oil pump bushing to spin? I spun a rod bearing at the track once, and one theory was that too much crank case pressure kept a lot of oil in the cylinder head (I don't know if I believe that theory, but it was tossed out there) - causing the oil pickup to suck air.

Hard to know. There is a whole in the top of the bushing where the oil comes in.

The only other component that showed damage was the crank and that was likely due to me driving a bit to the rest stop (less than a mile)

I don't see how any crank pressure could build in our motor. Pressure could build, but it would be everywhere. Oil pan is open to timing chain cover which is open to the valve cover.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Looking good! I like watching others work while I learn! I'm just on the "other side" from you if you ever go to liberty pm me!

 

[aclos3]

UWdave, are you the same guy who posts on dawgman.com as udubdave?

How is the build going any new progress? Let me know if you ever need a hand wrenching.

 

[UWdave]

UWdave, are you the same guy who posts on dawgman.com as udubdave?

How is the build going any new progress? Let me know if you ever need a hand wrenching.

Never been on dawgman.com.

Yeah, I'll totally hit you up soon. I'm in NY on business right now, hopefully won't have to stay more than 2 weeks. More hands would definitely be good when moving this heavy beast in.

Here is what I got done Sat and Sun before I had to leave:

 

[UWdave]

Finally got back from NY. Long, boring business trip.

This is where I left off on Feb 20

Here is where I stand today:

How my day went:

1. Removed valvecover to remove bolt I broke
2. Removed broken bolt by squaring with dremel and vise grips
3. Installed valvecover
4. Tried to replace PCV valve
5. Removed valvecover to shake our PCV gasket bits
6. Installed valvecover
7. Installed wire harness
8. Installed upper IM
9. Installed EGR
10. Installed TB
11. Removed TB to install water bypass tubes
12. Installed TB
13. Installed PS reservoir
14. Installed alternator
15. Installed lower oil pan (broke 1 bolt along side)

So, I need some advice on a few things:

1. What is the odds 1 broken oil pan bolt will cause a leak? It wouldn't be too much harder to do under the truck if needed because the engine is off the stand.
2. I meant to install a new rear main seal, but already installed the upper oil pan. Can this be done with the pan on?
3. I'm using my new engine but my old wire harness. There is a sensor in the EGR valve of my new motor. My old motor harness has a connector that looks to connect but it has a plug installed. I assume I should just leave this sensor unplugged and not change my stock wire harness
4. When I pulled the motor out it was only a longblock with no IM, valvecover, or oil pans. I also detached the flywheel from the torque converter and left that in the transmission. I figure this time I'll need to remove the hood. I'm I going to be able to do everything in reverse?

 

[lacruiser]

you can (and should) replace the rear main seal with the oil pans installed.

you might want to consider replacing the transmission front main seal, while you're in there. It's pretty easy to do.

 

[tirewater]

Why wouldn't you replace the oil pan bolt? Too hard to get to? If you broke the head of the bolt off or broke the shaft of the bolt there shouldn't be any tension on the threads and it should be easy to remove with an easy out. Providing the threads of the block/bolt aren't rusted or galled up.

Sounds like you need a better torque wrench.

 

[PDoyle]

Do you have a rear heater? The lines go over the top of and around the tranny.

 

[UWdave]

Why wouldn't you replace the oil pan bolt? Too hard to get to? If you broke the head of the bolt off or broke the shaft of the bolt there shouldn't be any tension on the threads and it should be easy to remove with an easy out. Providing the threads of the block/bolt aren't rusted or galled up.

Sounds like you need a better torque wrench.

I use my little Hitachi electric impact too much.

I guess I'm getting lazy. I want this project to be done.

 

[UWdave]

you can (and should) replace the rear main seal with the oil pans installed.

you might want to consider replacing the transmission front main seal, while you're in there. It's pretty easy to do.

Ok I was really over thinking this one. I just used a hooked pick to puncture the old one and pull it out. Oiled up the new one and it went on really easy with a few taps from a curved piece of wood and a hammer. I thought I had to remove the metal piece around it.

With the time saved, I might as well fix the pan bolt.

 

[Bryan E.]

I'm watching

Interesting read. I would replace all oil pan seals, and every seal that can and will leak oil later, do it now and it will be peace of mind later. I would also replace the little short heater hose that is a PIA to replace in the truck. Heck, go ahead and replace every hose now and be done with it. Also clean or replace all your vacuum lines now as they get crud in them. I would be getting the fuel injectors cleaned and serviced. It's out of the truck now, so I would just replace every little item that is hard to replace later. I would even be more likely to rebuild the motor while it was out. It's not that much more work and then it's done for many more years of giving you great service again.

I realize all this adds up in cost quickly. My money tree is not blooming yet so I hope that yours might be doing better than mine to help you out with this work.

I'll give you a big pat on the back though for all your hard work and the DIY attitude that is not typical in most of todays vehicle owners but is very common for those that are on this site. Good job to all that do this stuff themselves. I tip my hat to you sir.

 

[Pathfinder]

Interesting read. I would replace all oil pan seals, and every seal that can and will leak oil later, do it now and it will be peace of mind later. I would also replace the little short heater hose that is a PIA to replace in the truck. Heck, go ahead and replace every hose now and be done with it. Also clean or replace all your vacuum lines now as they get crud in them. I would be getting the fuel injectors cleaned and serviced. It's out of the truck now, so I would just replace every little item that is hard to replace later. I would even be more likely to rebuild the motor while it was out. It's not that much more work and then it's done for many more years of giving you great service again.

I realize all this adds up in cost quickly. My money tree is not blooming yet so I hope that yours might be doing better than mine to help you out with this work.

I'll give you a big pat on the back though for all your hard work and the DIY attitude that is not typical in most of todays vehicle owners but is very common for those that are on this site. Good job to all that do this stuff themselves. I tip my hat to you sir.

dude I would do those now as well. Its so much easier while on a engine stand. Your knuckles will thank you later.

 

[UWdave]

All seals are replaced.

All water hoses are replaced.

Vacuum hoses were replaced if they were brittle. (took the best of both motors)


I know things are easier with the engine on the stand, but in order to keep cost down, things like the injectors were passed over. I can always send in my 2nd set and install in the truck if need.

Engine is going in today.

 

[Pathfinder]

cool look forward to seeing some progress pics!

 

[UWdave]

cool look forward to seeing some progress pics!

Ask and ye shall receive. What a great and productive day.

 

[UWdave]

What is left:

• Few engine grounds
• Fan and belts
• Exhaust header (need new bolts or studs)
• Intake
• Radiators
• Fluids

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Wow! Big day indeed. Good job.

 

[UWdave]

Notes on the engine install:

Getting the engine in without crushing the transmission cooler lines and the exhaust pipes required some delicate maneuvering. We ended up dropping the engine in about 12" forward, sliding it back after lowered, and then tilted the front up to get it to close to the transmission. Using some long bolts I had from the engine stand, I aligned one hole and insert a bolt. Next we wiggled around the motor/trans until a second hole aligned and I inserted a bolt. With 2 long bolts installed, I tightened them until the engine/trans were close enough to get the stock bolts in. With the engine still supported by the hoist (no engine mounts) and the back of the transmission lowered, it was really pretty easy to get the engine/trans bolts installed.

Installing the engine mounts after the engine/trans union was a PitA. I'm not sure if it is easier when separated, but I'm still not sure how we got them in. We loosely installed onto the engine first. After moving around the engine and transmission for some time, they simply popped in.

It would have been nice to pull the exhaust pipes running between the headers and the cat. I was afraid that the nuts at the cat would turn to dust if I put a wrench on them so I left them be. Engine install and lining up the exhaust would have been easier with them out.

Getting the electrical, vacuum, and coolant hoses properly installed would have been near impossible without the Service Manual and pre-swap pictures.


Question:
My new motor came with 2 of the 4 header studs in place. Only 1 stud came out of my old motor. So, do I need to used OEM studs and bolts or can I use a high grade bolt?

 

[tirewater]

Notes on the engine install:

Getting the engine in without crushing the transmission cooler lines and the exhaust pipes required some delicate maneuvering. We ended up dropping the engine in about 12" forward, sliding it back after lowered, and then tilted the front up to get it to close to the transmission. Using some long bolts I had from the engine stand, I aligned one hole and insert a bolt. Next we wiggled around the motor/trans until a second hole aligned and I inserted a bolt. With 2 long bolts installed, I tightened them until the engine/trans were close enough to get the stock bolts in. With the engine still supported by the hoist (no engine mounts) and the back of the transmission lowered, it was really pretty easy to get the engine/trans bolts installed.

Installing the engine mounts after the engine/trans union was a PitA. I'm not sure if it is easier when separated, but I'm still not sure how we got them in. We loosely installed onto the engine first. After moving around the engine and transmission for some time, they simply popped in.

It would have been nice to pull the exhaust pipes running between the headers and the cat. I was afraid that the nuts at the cat would turn to dust if I put a wrench on them so I left them be. Engine install and lining up the exhaust would have been easier with them out.

Getting the electrical, vacuum, and coolant hoses properly installed would have been near impossible without the Service Manual and pre-swap pictures.


Question:
My new motor came with 2 of the 4 header studs in place. Only 1 stud came out of my old motor. So, do I need to used OEM studs and bolts or can I use a high grade bolt?

If you have one of the studs out of the motor (either one) - take it to your nearest parts store and try to match it up with studs they have there. I was *just* at Kragens/OReilly's and they had a number of exhaust studs on their generic parts shelf.

Unless the exhaust manifold is a perfect fit over the studs it'll be a bear getting a bolt in there.

I'm guessing studs are used for a reason (too lazy to look atm), I'd stick with studs.