Utility Trailer Project (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter MtnAddict
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- Thread starter
- #42
So, I finally got around to mounting the stabilizers. The original holes on the stabilizer would not work, so I drilled four holes in two scrap pieces of metal and bolted them to the stabilizers. This way I had holes on the other side where I could mount them to the trailer. Because the trailer is so high, I was short about 4.5 inches. I added a piece of a 4x4 and a piece of a 2x4 drill pressed and painted with some spray on bedliner to the stabilizer feet. Not perfect, but I think they will do their job.
So I was looking, and thinking - I think your supports need to be on the back end of the trailer. That's where they are on my formerly-camper-now-car-hauler trailer - and I think up front they may not do the job for you as well they would in the back.
- Thread starter
- #44
I was waiting for someone to say that. The trailer is front heavy because of the tent and the tent rack. The supports are really an experiment for keeping it from moving side to side while the tent is deployed. When I unhook the trailer, drop the stabilizers and lower the tongue wheel a little, it is solid. For camping purposes, the tailgate will probably never come down. I might add two more to the rear later if needed.
1st trial run: Moab this week.
1st trial run: Moab this week.
Looks good, I would order longer stabilizer legs in the future and two more for the rear.
That way the trailer is rock stable even when taking the quad in and out.
Ps: I like the french pedicure in the pictures.
That way the trailer is rock stable even when taking the quad in and out.
Ps: I like the french pedicure in the pictures.
ntsqd
technerd
I would move the supports to the rear anyway. And add a flat foot to the tongue for soft ground. The way that I work it with the TrailBlazer (which has those same supports at the rear) is to lower the tongue slightly and then set the supports. Then I raise the tongue to slightly take the weight off the suspension and level the trailer out. I have a circular bubble level from an RV store for the leveling aspect. With only the three real points of contact it is easy to get it level no matter what the ground's slope is.
Also, if you cut the 'feet' off of the supports you can then weld them to a square tube that will fit up inside of the lower part of the support. Drill cross-ways thru the lower part and the tube, then remove the new landing foot and drill a few more options. Mine has this mod and came to me with pip-pins, but any sort of pin would work.
Also, if you cut the 'feet' off of the supports you can then weld them to a square tube that will fit up inside of the lower part of the support. Drill cross-ways thru the lower part and the tube, then remove the new landing foot and drill a few more options. Mine has this mod and came to me with pip-pins, but any sort of pin would work.
How is this trailer holding up? This is EXACTLY what I have been thinking about doing and would love to hear how its working out for you
myquestoyota
SILVER Star
right?...
I was thinking any points given for Duratracs and a sweet RTT, get blown away by flip flops and nasty ass feet..
who the hell builds a trailer in flip flops...dammit, I need a job with this guy, I'm doing it all wrong....
i've searched and cannot seem to find an answer. I'm curious how it effects the towing and tongue weight. I want to do the same thing as you, but have a 14 ft trailer and tow a ranger crew on it. I want to mount my RTT to the trailer, weld the supports up front and it be tall enough so I can place the ranger as far forward on the trailer as possible. Do you experience any swaying or adverse trailer movement having the height and weight that far forward on the trailer? Awesome build and inspiring to alot of us.
