Using paint stripper 101

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I know it's not a Landcruiser, but an 85 toyota pickup is like a cruisers little brother. Anyway, I bought the 85 from a guy in Chicago, but it's originally from Colorado so the body and chassis are in VERY good shape considering the rust we get around here on the east coast. It was in a minor accident before I got her, and the hood was slightly buckled. The LS headlight bucket is cracked and the rad support is pushed in a smidge. Probably would have been a total loss if the previous owner went through the insurance company ONLY on the fact that it's an 85 toyota pickup. Other than that it's in really good original shape.

So within the last few months I've been gathering parts at the local junkyards and am going to start redoing the suspension and interior within the next couple months. It's not going to be a frame off or major resto by any means, but I will be making a nice clean original daily driver.

I started with the used hood I got for $20. It has some issues as well, but leaps and bounds better than current hood. I decided to use chemical stripper instead of media blasting because I knew it would be fairly easy to do. The hood had alot of fading and sun damage and absolutely no clear left to it. I put a sparce amount of stripper and scrapped the rest off with ease (see pics). I use a meat block scrapper that butchers use to scrape the paint off and then cleaned it with lacquer thinner. I had it down to bare metal within 45 minutes. After that I sanded it with a DA sander using 80 grit paper making sure to get any surface rust or pitting smooth as I could. That took about an hour, but overall it wasn't back breaking. I then shot it with Montana Big Sky epoxy primer which I now swear by. I was a diehard PPG DP series user for years, but got turned onto Montana Big Sky from a friend in the body business and have no complaints. The best part about their products are they are usually about 25-30% cheaper than PPG and with the epoxy you get 2 gallons since the catalyst is also a gallon with a 1:1 mix ratio.

The hood needs some body work on both ends (looks like someone closed the hood with something lying across the engine) along with a couple small dings and normally I would have left it in bare metal, but my father's shop holds in moisture in the summer months and I didn't want to go through the stripping process for nothing. I will get some more pics of those repairs in the next week or so.
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After you sanded to bare metal, do you wipe down with lacquer thinner then spray with primer? Can acetone be used instead?
 
After you sanded to bare metal, do you wipe down with lacquer thinner then spray with primer? Can acetone be used instead?

I wipe it down with grease and wax remover before priming. Thanks for reminding me. As for acetone, I know it's a great thinning material, but never really used to prep before painting or priming. Lacquer thinner is relatively inexpensive.
 
Another question -

I let some bare metal panels sit and they surface rusted, some areas a bit heavy. When I say bare metal they did still have the coating from the production process I guess. Not sure bit maybe it is from the metal cooling when it was formed. Anyway, I used phosphoric acid metal prep to remove/convert the rust. In areas that were heavy with rust it left a dark gray, hard coating. If I wire brush it down in some areas there is rust under the dark covering. Other areas there is a gray/white powdery material that seems to wire brush off to bare metal.

How should this be prepped before priming?

What are your thoughts on rust conversion with phosphoric acid before painting?

Thanks!
 
Another question -

I let some bare metal panels sit and they surface rusted, some areas a bit heavy. When I say bare metal they did still have the coating from the production process I guess. Not sure bit maybe it is from the metal cooling when it was formed. Anyway, I used phosphoric acid metal prep to remove/convert the rust. In areas that were heavy with rust it left a dark gray, hard coating. If I wire brush it down in some areas there is rust under the dark covering. Other areas there is a gray/white powdery material that seems to wire brush off to bare metal.

How should this be prepped before priming?

What are your thoughts on rust conversion with phosphoric acid before painting?

Thanks!

Phosphoric acid works well as a rust converter, but I'm still old school and do whatever I can to get it to bare metal whether with media blasting, wire brushes or a trusty piece of sandpaper. The dark coloring you see is the chemical reacting to the rust like it's supposed to. Apparently the darker it gets the better.

If I was you I would buy an epoxy or at least self-etching primer and sand it down to bare metal again. I use the 80 grit because it will cause tiny grooves in the metal which help with adhesion when you apply the primer. Once you get it to bare metal wipe it down with a grease and wax remover and shoot it with the primer. If you're going to paint it at a later date just make sure you scuff it with 600 grit before painting it.
 
ok thanks for the info
 
Laying plastic over the stripper while it on makes it dig deeper.

I didn't know that! The stripper won't eat through the plastic? That stuff burns like hell when it gets on bare skin, gloves are a must.
 
I've heard that some people pressure wash the paint and stripper of afterwards. Is this a good idea? I would be concerned about putting water to bare metal.
 
I've pressure washed panels in the past, but no longer do it. The lacquer thinner neutralizes the stripper as well and does a better job at getting all the hard crud off. just make sure you wipe it down really well with grease and wax remover before priming.
 
I've been pressure washing too as it really blasts all the soft paint right off. I've then wiped or sprayed a light coat of metal prep (phosphoric acid) over the bare metal. They don't seem to rust. My plan is to wash the metal prep off with the lacquer thinner and grease remover then prime. I'm not painting now so they are stacked in the shed and so far no signs of rust. A little surface or flash rust can be removed with the metal prep.

Some of the hot rods guys seem to prime right over the metal prep but from what I have read that seems controversial. Apparently it works for some. Probably depends on the primer you are using.
 
I've been pressure washing too as it really blasts all the soft paint right off. I've then wiped or sprayed a light coat of metal prep (phosphoric acid) over the bare metal. They don't seem to rust. My plan is to wash the metal prep off with the lacquer thinner and grease remover then prime. I'm not painting now so they are stacked in the shed and so far no signs of rust. A little surface or flash rust can be removed with the metal prep.

Some of the hot rods guys seem to prime right over the metal prep but from what I have read that seems controversial. Apparently it works for some. Probably depends on the primer you are using.

I've always felt that primer is one of the most important products in a quality paintjob. This is especially true when you are performing bodywork which will require using body filler. Cheap primers can cause shrinkage in the filler exposing scratch marks. For the hood pictured I sprayed a good 2 part epoxy primer down and will topcoat that with a high build 2k primer. I'll block it, apply another coat and wet sand it with 600. I usually don't use sealers unless the primer color contradicts the base coat I'm planning on using.
 
I will have to decide how involved I want to get with this knowing I am going out on the trail to beat it up. I will likely be making "repairs" with a rattle can.
 
I will have to decide how involved I want to get with this knowing I am going out on the trail to beat it up. I will likely be making "repairs" with a rattle can.

If you plan on wheelin' your truck you are definitely on the right track. I had a 67 scout years ago with a rattle can camo job. What a breeze touch ups were.
 
Hey toomany,

Is that some good old school stripper you are using...(ie methylene chloride based stripper)...looks like it from the pic. Big difference between methylene chloride based strippers and the new "green" strippers.
 
Hey toomany,

Is that some good old school stripper you are using...(ie methylene chloride based stripper)...looks like it from the pic. Big difference between methylene chloride based strippers and the new "green" strippers.

You bet your last nose hair it is. My dad gets it from his autobody supplier. You have to be careful when opening up the can if it has sat for awhile. The pressure from the gases will sometimes giser the stripper out of the container.
 

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