Use Case: SL vs E rated Tire (1 Viewer)

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Hello!

I recently purchased a 2005 LC that’s currently has 275 70 r18 K02s in load range E. I’ve ran these tires before. They look great and are very durable. These ones are worn out and I need to replace.

I’d like to keep the same exact tire size / spec which is a 33” with the OEM wheels.

The only options are SL or E. My use case is a daily driver in Los Angeles. I plan to take it off-road about 6 times per year, mostly out to Joshua Tree, Alabama Hills, Anza Borrego, Sierra Nevadas and Big Sur. Think mostly West Coast with maybe some trips out to Arizona. I’d like to push the truck a little further than well kept forest service roads, but nothing crazy at all as this is mostly a capable overland rig.

The truck currently has steel front and rear bumpers, and a steel roof track. I plan to add sliders as well.

Ride on the current Es is quite harsh and gas milage is no bueno. Can I get away with an SL in those environments?

I’m debating between General Grabber ATX (SL) or Toyo Open Coutntry ATIII (E). The Toyo seems like the lightest e rated tire so at-least I can improve mpg, and acceleration on road.

Thanks for reading!
 
I'd say you get away w/o E. doesn't sound like you're doing seriously intense offroading and I even did the Geology Trail in JT NP with my Audi Allroad :-D wouldn't suggest it though ^^
 
if I was daily driving mine or commuting or something I probably wouldn't go E.

The biggest difference is sidewall thickness and strength. Around here there's a lot of jagged shale and volcanic rock so I like the security of an E. But the ride on the road suffers, as does the fuel economy, acceleration, and braking performance.
 
You can probably get away with SL, but carry a matching spare, tools (including plug kit) and be prepared to change/ repair a flat.

I’ve never had an issue with an E rated tire off road but I’ve destroyed several SL tires over the years. I run E rated tires and truly don’t understand people’s complaints about ride quality. My MPG however is abysmal thanks the combo of tires, ARB front bumper and rack.

I really wish tire manufacturers would offer more options in the middle ground between SL and E rated.
 
I’ve never felt the difference between loads either but I’ve also never had the same size tire and different load rating for a true comparison.

32” SL was fine on road (all season Bridgestones)
33” C load was fine on road (Wildpeak AT3Ws)
35” E load was fine on road (Kenda Klevar AT2s)
37” D load was fine on road (my favorite - Mickey Thompson Baja Boss ATs)

I’ll always go with the E load if it’s available since I don’t drive much and want the little extra durability.

I highly recommend you call/email the tire manufacturer to see what tire pressure they recommend for your specific vehicle, wheel width, and weight (because of your extra steel).

Mickey Thompson did this for me when I was running 37s on my Gladiator with 7.5” wide wheels.

@MountaineerLC BTW, let’s go Mountaineers!
 
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It depends on your tolerance for flats when your places with sharp rocks. I run Wildpeaks (E rated) on my 100 because the last thing I want to do is replace a tire on the trail, and if I cut one on a trail I think the chances of cutting two goes up, but maybe I’m paranoid.

I know there’s a ton of debate on this, but I’ve run 33 psi for almost 100k miles without issue, and the ride is pretty nice. If you’re running higher pressure you might try lowering it.
 
My LX is my daily/baby hauler and it’s on 275/70/18 grabber ATX SL. That couples with AHC makes driving a dream. My offroad vehicle is the LC, on regular shocks/springs running D rated tires. It doesn’t ride bad but nowhere near how smooth the LX is. My kid sleeps soundly in the LX but in the LC he wakes up when we hit a bump


IMG_0787.jpeg
 
I have Toyo ATIII's in the same size 265/70R18 on my LX470 and on my 2020 Sequoia. Difference being on the 470 they're "E" rated and on the Sequoia they're "SL" rated. The comfort is definitely noticeable on the SL's. I'm considering going SL’s on the LX when it’s time!
 
Toyo offers the AT3's in an EV version too... which could be interesting. EV for lower rolling resistance (better mileage) and I'm guessing high torque application?

17's and C load
Or 15's and angle grinder!
 
Well, there is a Falken Wildpeak A/T4W in 255/85R16 (33.1") in C-LOAD. Most tires of this size are E load. So if buying, I would buy at least 5 of them. You can find OE 16's still pretty cheap or trade straight across.
 
Just know, 285 is the section width (at the sidewalls). A 285 could potentially have a narrower tread width than a 275.
 
Well, there is a Falken Wildpeak A/T4W in 255/85R16 (33.1") in C-LOAD. Most tires of this size are E load. So if buying, I would buy at least 5 of them. You can find OE 16's still pretty cheap or trade straight across.
Now THIS has me interested.
 
Just know, 285 is the section width (at the sidewalls). A 285 could potentially have a narrower tread width than a 275.
You have this backwards. The first number in tire size is the width of the tread. The second is the height of the sidewall as a percentage of the width.
 
I've got about 160,000 miles on E-Rated 275/70/18s BFG KO/KO2s. My 100 is light compared to most 100s here - just a Dissent Off-road front bumper, winch, and sliders; no drawers, rear swing-away, etc. I average two trips off-road each year. I run the KO2s at 35 PSI.

Last year I put 33" C-Rated KO2s on a 2020 4Runner... and was kinda shocked by the difference. Okay sure, the 4R is a lot newer, a bit lighter, a fraction of the miles... but holy &$%# those tires were like butter compared to the same (also new) tires on my 100. It kinda ruined the 100 for me. So I'm done with E-Rated tires.

Note: I reserve the right to come back and edit this thread in three years if I start to 'wheel more and have cut some C-Rated sidewalls.
 
You have this backwards. The first number in tire size is the width of the tread. The second is the height of the sidewall as a percentage of the width.
Measure your tread width and report back. 😀
 

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