help - I think I screwed up trying to remove my rear rotors...

[WannaCruise]

Hello all,

I was having a devil of a time trying to remove the rotors so I used bolts in the threaded holes on the rotor to pull the rotor from the hub. I didn't think through it and just ran the bolts through and tightened them against whatever was in the hub (I'm assuming the parking brake hardware). That worked pretty well for a few millimeters, but then I heard a Ping noise and something come loose inside the rotor. That's when it dawned on me that I never backed off the parking brake shoes...

Now the rotor is totally locked, and it will not turn at all. I even tried reinstalling the wheel to spin the hub to get to the access hole... It won't budge.

Any ideas on how to overcome this? I feel so stupid...

 

[Trunk Monkey]

You can try to adjust the parking brake looser with the star adjuster on the back side. If that's frozen too and the reason you're taking the rotors off is to replace them, no reason not to pound on them with a BFH from the back, see if that won't move them.

 

[WannaCruise]

You can try to adjust the parking brake looser with the star adjuster on the back side. If that's frozen too and the reason you're taking the rotors off is to replace them, no reason not to pound on them with a BFH from the back, see if that won't move them.

I don't see an access port on the back, it's solid. I wasn't trying to replace the parking brake, I was just replacing the rotors because the passenger side went metal to metal on the pads.

 

[WannaCruise]

How are the threaded bolt holes SUPPOSED to be used in remove the rotors? Are you supposed to use a pully that threads into the holes and presses against the center hub or something?

 

[leveeguy]

access point to adjust star washer is on outward face of rotor. The access hole needs to be at the 6 o'clock position

 

[leveeguy]

How are the threaded bolt holes SUPPOSED to be used in remove the rotors? Are you supposed to use a pully that threads into the holes and presses against the center hub or something?

Not sure this works for rear rotors.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

nm, rubber grommet is on the front on the 100 for the star adjuster. For the rears you just back that off a little and then walk the rotor off the parking brake shoes. The bolt holes could be used I guess, but you'd have to be sure they're lined up to the axle flange and not the 5 holes that are around it. But even then, if the parking brake is on or tight, you'd be forcing them off and I don't know that they'd even come off.

 

[leveeguy]

I had this happen to me about 15 years ago. Took me a while to remember what I did.

I bought a heavy duty drill bit and drilled a hole through the rotor where the star adjuster is located to loosen it.

 

[WannaCruise]

nm, rubber grommet is on the front on the 100 for the star adjuster. For the rears you just back that off a little and then walk the rotor off the parking brake shoes. The bolt holes could be used I guess, but you'd have to be sure they're lined up to the axle flange and not the 5 holes that are around it. But even then, if the parking brake is on or tight, you'd be forcing them off and I don't know that they'd even come off.

That's the situation I'm in right now... I did not loosen the star adjuster to retract the shoes before I used bolts in the rotor. Like an idiot I just threaded the bolts in until the hit resistance, and tightened away. The rotor did back off the hub, but I heard a pinging noise, something came loose, and then the rotor was basically seized at that point. No more backing off the hub, and it will not rotate AT ALL...

I'm just guessing right now, but I fear the bolts were pressing against the brake shoe hardware and I knocked it loose and jammed the shoes to the inner rotor hub.

The only thing I can think to do is use something like this to pull the rotor via the threaded holes. It'll wreck the parking brake pads, and likely the hardware, but I'm not sure of any other options.

I had this happen to me about 15 years ago. Took me a while to remember what I did.

I bought a heavy duty drill bit and drilled a hole through the rotor where the star adjuster is located to loosen it.

Thank you, that's a good idea. That would be the best, and least destructive, option right now...

I just have to find my good drill bits and go to town tomorrow.

Thank you!

 

[nissanh]

You can drive a nut through the threaded hole to pull the rotor out. use two nuts on both holes to pry it off while turning the bolt clockwise.

don't force it in by installing the wheel and tightening the 5 lug nuts. using a rubber mallet, keep hitting the drum area where the park brake touches. after several hits, try to pull it out. by turning the 12 mm bolt. Also order the hardware kit and potentially brake shoes.

 

[badlander]

There IS a round rubber gromet on the outer surface of the rotor mounting flange near where the studs come thru to access the star adjuster. Unfortunately you'll need to rotate the hub until the access hole is at the bottom to be able to get to the star adjuster. Pry out the plug with a small screwdriver to remove it.

 

[WannaCruise]

You can drive a nut through the threaded hole to pull the rotor out. use two nuts on both holes to pry it off while turning the bolt clockwise.

don't force it in by installing the wheel and tightening the 5 lug nuts. using a rubber mallet, keep hitting the drum area where the park brake touches. after several hits, try to pull it out. by turning the 12 mm bolt. Also order the hardware kit and potentially brake shoes.

Yes, that's what I did, however I failed to loosen the ebrake adjuster prior to doing that and I have apparently jammed it against the rotor. The rotor will not come off, nor can I rotate it around to get the hole aligned with the star adjuster.

Next step is to drill a new access hole in the rotor to access the star adjuster.

 

[WannaCruise]

There IS a round rubber gromet on the outer surface of the rotor mounting flange near where the studs come thru to access the star adjuster. Unfortunately you'll need to rotate the hub until the access hole is at the bottom to be able to get to the star adjuster. Pry out the plug with a small screwdriver to remove it.View attachment 3999114

Yes, thank you. The issue is that I didn't do that BEFORE I backed the rotor off using the bolts. Now I can't rotate the hub so I'll have to drill a new hole.

 

[2001LC]

Drilling rotor at 6 the o'clock, is a great idea @leveeguy . To allow access to the star adjustors, when roytor can't be turned.

Just to be clear, which the FSM is in "most" (not all) of brake job.

• The two thread 8 x1.25 holes, in rear rotors. Are for pressing off rotor. The bolts will press against the axle hub.
• We must back-off E-brake shoes. Not only release the E-brake handle, but back-off the shoes by the star adjustors.

Failure to back off shoes. If they then hang-up on rotor. Shoes will be pulled outward with rotor.
The shoe are held against brake dust shield, by two heavy gauge wire pins. One pin, has a bend the other straight. These wire pins, are install through the rear of brake dust shield. Pull to hard on them (pins), can rip them through brake dust shield. This may enlarge the hole in dust shield. If so, you may need to add a "thin washer" to new wire pins, during assemble. So that they don't pull through, brake dust shield on their own. You may be able to reuse straight wire pin. But the bent one will likely get elongated and need restoring or replacing.

Shoe are secondarily, held on by spring tension, on tension spring retainer and hook into shoe by forks of struth. So when hung up on a rotor, and pulled out. Shoes, roll outward at side/middle area, pivoting from top which is held in. This compresses shoe on tension spring retainer (which is attached to brake dust shield) and rotor. Simulary held in at bottom, by adjustor forked ends. This results in shoes getting cockeyes and wedging into rotor. Not only lock rotor on. But many parts, may get damaged.

All parts of E-brake assembly. Will now need very close inspection. Any damaged, either need restoring or replaced.

I can't tell you how many rear brake jobs I see done wrong. The FSM has very specific procedures and list of parts not to be reused and specific greases applied at certain points. Failure to follow. Results in poor braking, poor wear of pads and rotor, run out issues, damaging to parts.

What I see "not done correctly or at all, when replacing Pad & Rotors.

• Not cleaning rust from face of axle wheel hub. This must be done, without remove metal from hub face. Hub face is a run-out surface.
• Not running-out axle wheel hub, with dial gauge. Tip: Mark hubs' run-out. This will help find, best rotor position later.
• Not running-out, rotor at all 5 position, then placing and marking at best position (run-out).
• If rotor run-out over .004", turn on machine lathe.
  Note: If run-out off, by more than .002 or .003" at axle hub (FSM actual calls for replacement of rear axle). We then, may not be able to get, .004" or less runout on rotor. The use of OTV brake lathe, is best bet to correct rotor run-out without replacing axle.
• Not lightly grease slide pins and replacing their boots.
• Improper placement of new fitting kit.
• Not installing wear indicator.
• Not adjusting E-shoe star adjust (back off 8 click from all the way tight), when done install rotors.

I recommend a medium strength threadlocker on caliper bolts. Reduce the torque from the 76ft-lbf factory spec, by ~ 20% Since lubing threads. I use ~62ft-lbf on these lubed caliper bolt. These are the bolts, which hold on Torque plate to rear axle housing.

Thread 'Rear Brake Job'

Aug 1, 2018

Hello,

I need new rear brakes on my 2004 LX470. I have ordered Centric rotors and Posiquiet Pads. I am pretty much a noob but i can usually follow a good set of instructions. I have been searching around for a good DIY instructional and Youtube video but haven't found what im looking for. Anyone have any info on where i might find that? Also any tips or advice for things i should do while im in there. Like grease bearings or something like that. I would like to do a 2001lc level brake job. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

• Verybadwizard
• Replies: 87
• Forum: 100-Series Cruisers

See my Master link below. You'll find more on brakes.

 

[Super77]

I just did a rear brake service so this is fresh in my mind. @WannaCruise did you attempt to loosen the steel cable that runs between the rear brake shoe mechanisms, along the axle? There is a turnbuckle just to the drivers side of the differential.

I know you can’t access the star adjuster under the rotor, but I recall the cable acts on the same mechanism. However, if the shoes are now jammed/wedged as I think @2001LC describes, then neither the cable nor the star adjuster may help.

In other words, if you loosen the cable (which you can do easily without drilling anything), and that does not relieve the jammed shoes, then I don’t believe accessing the star adjuster will help.

‘Mud-mind, correct if I’m wrong here.

 

[WannaCruise]

UPDATE:

I got the rotor off. I drilled a new hole and released the tension via the star adjuster.

Once I got the rotor off I could see that I had pulled the Shoe Hold Down Spring's pin through the retaining cup. This allowed the spring and cup to pop off, that was the sound I heard. I was able to put it back together, but the damaged cup would likely pull through quickly:

The cup (PN 47449-30030), is bad and I'm headed to the dealer to get one now. Luckily that appears to be the only damage other than my ego...

Thank you to everyone for the assistance!

 

[nissanh]

I am doing a brake job for a friend having a 2015 pilot.. A good reminder to release the brake shoes before the job!

 

[WannaCruise]

New Update on my brakes:

I'm all back together and tested. New front pads, and new rear rotors and pads. I had intended to replace my rear calipers with rebuilt NAPA calipers, but they didn't have the screw holes for the slide pin shield like my original ones had. I ended up replacing the boots and cleaning/lubing my original slide pins. I did not do anything with the piston or piston dust seal for now, they seem to be in good shape... I did notice the rubber bushing on the sub pin was not great so I ended up using the pin from the NAPA unit for now. I have ordered new Toyota pins and will swap them when I get them.

Once again, MUCH THANKS to everyone that helped out and don't be an idiot like me, be sure you retract those parking brake pads! Bbut if you don't, all hope isn't lost, just look above for some help.