Upgrading the alternator??

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I have very good experience with Powermasters 170 amp units and installed several for my customers here in my country.

I am not afiliated, nor a authorized distributor or related with them just in case. I tried others and was very disappointed. You can increase the gauge of the wire used in the winding of the stator, put bigger rectifier diodes but at the end they will run very hot and sooner or later something is gona fail. Also they doesn't provide enough amps at low rpm :frown:

Powermaster use a bigger Denso case model, manufacturated by Denso USA versus the stock made in Japan. They came with a plug adapter to match their round Camry type conector to the Land Cruiser in line type.

Each alt came with a individual rating test sheet which close matched the values I measured when I checked them in my bench. Of course this values will decrease a bit when installed since they will work at the high temperatures you find in the motor and loaded with the vehicle electrical demand, and their integrated voltage regulator will limit the alternator ouput acording to this increased temperature as to protect them.

Since they came with a serpentine type pulley and it's shaft diameter is bigger, I bought a stock alternator replacement dual V pulley which will be machined to the Powermaster alternator bigger shaft.

(Take in mind that because the case is bigger, it will take a lot more of fiddling to put them in place against the stock, also the belts are harder to install since there is less tension adjustment clearance).

This is great because the customer can keep his stock alternator as a backup and ready to install in case the newer fail.

I have seen 1FZ's with dual alternator setups. They keep the stock alt but add a second one on the right side. A crankshaft pulley from a 2.6 ltr Isuzu trooper is bolted over the stock crankshaft main pulley (with longer bolts) driving the new alternator through an aditional belt. Alternator support bracket is bolted to two existing unused threads and the one exhaust manifold holding bolt.
 
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any further progress on this topic?
 
I was looking for a better alternator as well...and someone here recommended Ohio Generator.

http://www.ohiogen.com/


I called and they said they can sell me a High Output direct bolt-in replacement that needs no modifications. However, I am going to run a second set of heavy gauge wires in parallel to the battery when I have this installed.

Rich
 
Do you have a price?
 
For wiring in the 4 pin hook up on the Tundra to 1FZ alt one will need to order the connector "G2 Black" from Toyota. Part # 90980-11964. Although the alternator has 4 outputs, Toyota only uses 3. So it's just a matter of popping the 3 pins/wires out of the older 3 pin connector in the stock 1FZ Toyota harness. I'll have wire colors to connector position in a day or so.
 
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Can’t any good alternator shop rebuild the stock unit to any output you choose?

We have a local shop down here in San Antonio that rebuilt a Land Rover alternator for me a few years ago and we took the amperage output from 100 to 150. It cost a bit more than a aftermarket unit but they do awesome work and there are no modifications required for mounting or wiring.

It just seems easier to use the stock unit and have it rebuilt to your specs.
 
So to sum up this thread that has spanned over 1.5 years, the Tundra HO alternator will bolt right up, but a new adjuster bracket needs to be fabbed. (anybody ever get pics of this?) Also there is still the issue of the 4th wire and it's purpose on the Tundra alternator, Bjowett gives us the Toyota part #s for the truck side of the 4pin connector so we can replace the plug, but we still don't know what the mystery 4th connection is for. Is this about right? Does basiclly sum things up? Any more info?
 
The 4th output on the alternator is not used by Toyota on the Tundra/Sequoia.
I don't exactly recall what the 4th output is for, something to do with the vehicle ECU and alternator demand/output.

The 130A alternator has a diagram right on the build sticker showing which pins are for what, so one pops the pins from the stock 3 prong connector, and plugs them into the new 4 pronger 90980-11964. The pins even keep their little silicone protection grommets...

Looking at the BACK (the wires slide into this side) of the the new 4 prong plug 90980-11964, on a 93 the Black wire plugs into the upper right, the black wire with blue trace upper left, and the white with yellow trace lower left. The lower right should get sealed up with some silicone or what have you. I'll tripple check the previous and snap some photos...
 
Any pics of your install?? Also I would like to see some pics of a dual ALT FZJ??

Anyone......
 

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