upgraded alternator installed - 250A (2 Viewers)

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James Bentley

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Sep 17, 2018
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Location
Whitesboro, Texas
Well, I decided to swap out my OEM alternator with a brand new made in USA unit from the people at BNR
I got the 11087 for my 2004 LX = 250A (4 pin connector)
BNR did a great job packing around the alternator with numerous pieces of high density foam to insulate during shipping.

Removal was pretty straight forward and no issues bringing it out the top.
I did pull air intake to throttle body/air cleaner lid, drive belt, P/S pump (just 3 bolts and set to side) and coolant reservoir to get better access.
I also installed a 2GA copper welding cable (made in USA) with copper crimp on terminals in addition to the existing factory positive cable.
I was even able to get the plastic protective cap to fit back on the alternator even with 2 cables.
I routed my 2 GA cable right along side the factory cable, secured with zip ties and back to the battery.

I'll likely inspect the OEM unit, replace brushes and bearing while I'm there and keep as a spare.
I did transfer the metal heat shield from the old onto the new unit.

A bit of SeaFoam to clean the Throttle Body while I was there and all is well.
As I expected, I did get the VGRS light on dash, since the neg battery terminal was off over night.
Just need to drive around the block and get it to reset itself.

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On my third one from them in three vehicles and no problems. They’re chill guys over there too
 
Nice little upgrade from stock and awesome that it is USA made!
@James Bentley any particular reason you went with the 250a? Looking at the 220a and seeing if they have a 200a, isn't stock only 150a?
 
Is the BNR pulley size the same as the Denso/OEM? Have you measured the voltage output to see what your new 250A alt is generating at various RPM's?
 
Nice little upgrade from stock and awesome that it is USA made!
@James Bentley any particular reason you went with the 250a? Looking at the 220a and seeing if they have a 200a, isn't stock only 150a?

Stock on the 98-99 is 80A, 2000+ is 100A.
 
Stock on the 98-99 is 80A, 2000+ is 100A.
Wow! Didn't realize it was THAT low. Wonder why they went that low initially??
I may contact BNR directly to see what they have... Oddly they have some of their alternators listed for the 4.7l Tundras but not for the LC/LX, or they will have it for LX but not LC. Like was looking at one that alternated years between LX and LC (98-LX, 99-LC, 00-LX, etc.).
 
What is the tangible advantage in more than doubling the alternator Amps?
 
FWIW, of course:

BNR - Basically Not Reliable - BMW

Rebuild your Yota one at a reputable local place anyway...
Problem is... finding those places is getting harder and harder. Ten+ years ago I could have easily asked one of the electrical engineers at the mfg. data analytics place I worked for for a recommendation. Had an older guy in his late 60s that did the rewinding of alternators and such FOR FUN. But now days, not so much.
 
I went bigger for my stereo. Three so far and they’ve all met the needs of my systems from 2k-3k watts and corresponding amperage pull. I read that forum. Over 50% of the complaints were either user error or properly mediated by bnr. Alt has a one year warranty. I don’t work for em but they’ve been great for me
 
Nice little upgrade from stock and awesome that it is USA made!
@James Bentley any particular reason you went with the 250a? Looking at the 220a and seeing if they have a 200a, isn't stock only 150a?
Hi @gregnash
I went with 250A from BNR based on price and Made in USA...and
220A is the 3-pin model for older 100's
I have a 2004 with the 4-pin connector on the back
I believe 130A is stock for my rig
I added a 2 gauge cable in addition to the factory cable to support increased current that future loads may put on my system
 
I did reach out to BNR prior to purchase and asked about a group buy for Mud members.
They stated profit margin is at their current minimum to be profitable and could not further discount any of their products to "us".
Thread here (*spd_rcr* is my ebay ID):

bnrparts
Honestly we sell these at minimum profit in order to stay competitive online, we don't have room for discounts.
*spd_rcr*:
Fantastic news and thanks for the prompt reply.
Would you consider offering a "Group-Buy" discount for quantities more than 1?
I'd love to promote your company and products to my online forum group (forum.ih8mud.com) .
It will likely send business your way.

Thanks again,
James
bnrparts
Hello,
we build these in house. What makes it HD is the better bearings, better diodes and reinforced rotor. The size is the same as oem. It puts out 125 amps at idle and 250 amps at 1200 rpm.
*spd_rcr*:
Hello, on the alternator (Item 11087) I have some questions:
1. Where do you source your parts?
2. What makes this Heavy-Duty (I get "high output", but what makes it HD).
3. Is the physical size bigger or the same as the OEM (more coils/windings = bigger body)?
4. What is the output rating at idle and at 2,000 RPM?

Thanks!
 
Is the BNR pulley size the same as the Denso/OEM? Have you measured the voltage output to see what your new 250A alt is generating at various RPM's?
Hi @abuck99 I did not measure the pulley size, but it looked the same to me. I did not see any voltage change and have not load tested to see what max amperage output the new unit is capable of producing.
BNR quoted 125A at idle and 250A at 1,200 RPM
I thought about running them both down to my local autoparts store to "test" each and note those findings...but did not, sorry.
 
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Hi @gregnash
I went with 250A from BNR based on price and Made in USA...and
220A is the 3-pin model for older 100's
I have a 2004 with the 4-pin connector on the back
I believe 130A is stock for my rig
I added a 2 gauge cable in addition to the factory cable to support increased current that future loads may put on my system

Ok that was what I was wondering... Having a 98 LC I bet you that it is an older 3-pin version which was then subsequently updated with lots of other stuff in 03.
 
This thread is just over a year old, so I wanted to follow up and see how that upgraded alternator is doing. Hopefully it's running strong, because I bought the 220A version from them for my 2000 LX.

I've heard a few mentions of people upgrading to higher output alternators in the 100 series, but I haven't heard many details on the actual install other than what was mentioned in this thread. Besides upgrading the positive lead to the alternator and probably the ground wires as well, are there any other modifications that were necessary? Also, did you run the positive lead from the alternator directly to the battery terminal, or did that still go to that same little fuse block that hangs off the side?
 

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