Unexpected wheelbearing failure (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Cruiserdrew
- Start date
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Cruiserdrew
On the way there
- Thread starter
- #22
I just ran down to AutoZone-What a crap hole. They did have my bearings though. Timkin: Outer bearing with race (set 47) $16.99. Inner Bearing $7.99, Race $3.99. So for $29 I'm set to reassemble. Dan got my knuckle parts to my door in less than 24 hours-thanks man. I wish I had bought the Toyota bearings, and will next time. I also got my Mobil 1 grease. I think I'm done with Amsoil.
semlin
curmudgeon
I am 15k into a rebuild with redline synth with moly and no problems so far. Because of comments on this board about moly I called their tech support before using it and they said it was ok gfor any wheel bearings. The grease says right on the tube that it is for wheel bearings. At the risk of getting flamed by oem fanatics, wheel bearings are wheel bearings and they all do the same rpm and redline would not be in business for long if they sold wheel bearing grease that made wheel bearings burn out.
They were just skeered of yer avitar and said whatever they could think of to get U off the tele........
The issue that I see with synthetics is that the preload proceedure is Fawked because of it's thinker consistancy. I'd also be interested in it's ability to flow at similar temps that dino does. This is where that extra grease in the hub cavity comes into play.
semlin
curmudgeon
cruiserdan said:They were just skeered of yer avitar and said whatever they could think of to get U off the tele........
Dan, not sure what you mean. There's nothing scary about some good old Canadian sport fishing. You just need the right skills...
Jim_Chow
V8_Fan
ginericfj80 said:
Thanks. I've used both Valvoline moly (30K mi ago...no issues) and now the Amsoil non-moly red MP grease (IIRC, FSM specs MP grease, no mention of moly for the front bearings). Also, as you mention, the front wheel hubs are set to the "free" position 98% of the time.
I've ran Amsoil red for 30K and no problems here.
My .02
My .02
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
- Thread starter
- #30
Update and resolution
To fix the gasket leak between the third member and the axle housing, I had to tear down the entire axle. CDan overnighted me the knuckle parts and after work this week I've worked here and there do get it rebuilt and done. The knuckle went back together well, with the knuckle preload coming out exactly in spec. Interestingly, once it was all torn down, there was a clear self centering index point in the old bearings, so they were worn and needed replacement anyway. One other data point-the breather hose was plugged, though I could clear it with compressed air. That may have caused the gear oil leak in the first place.
I sourced new Timkin wheel bearings locally at AutoZone. They ended up costing $29 per wheel, so $58 for both. That didn't seem too bad. I deceided it's actually quicker to pound out the old races and toss the old bearings, then it is to clean up the old bearings and reuse. Lesson learned. At previous WB repacks I've always cleaned up the old ones, but for $29 per wheel I'm not sure it's worth it. I still don't know what caused the spalling in my old bearing-it was only 1 of the 4-but I will not use Amsoil again in that application. Interesting that Eric had the same experience with RedLine moly grease. Another lesson learned. This time the knuckle bearings and birfield got Amsoil Moly grease and the wheel bearings got Mobil1 grease which has no moly. After reassembly, and reconnecting the tie rod and drag link, it drives like new. Time for
edit-CDan sent me new drive flanges too at my request. The mild front end clunk after braking is gone. From my expereince, I would say replace those every 100k miles. The splines of the flage are greased with moly grease (no speed, high pressure) It's also nice to have some spares to throw in the parts box.
To fix the gasket leak between the third member and the axle housing, I had to tear down the entire axle. CDan overnighted me the knuckle parts and after work this week I've worked here and there do get it rebuilt and done. The knuckle went back together well, with the knuckle preload coming out exactly in spec. Interestingly, once it was all torn down, there was a clear self centering index point in the old bearings, so they were worn and needed replacement anyway. One other data point-the breather hose was plugged, though I could clear it with compressed air. That may have caused the gear oil leak in the first place.
I sourced new Timkin wheel bearings locally at AutoZone. They ended up costing $29 per wheel, so $58 for both. That didn't seem too bad. I deceided it's actually quicker to pound out the old races and toss the old bearings, then it is to clean up the old bearings and reuse. Lesson learned. At previous WB repacks I've always cleaned up the old ones, but for $29 per wheel I'm not sure it's worth it. I still don't know what caused the spalling in my old bearing-it was only 1 of the 4-but I will not use Amsoil again in that application. Interesting that Eric had the same experience with RedLine moly grease. Another lesson learned. This time the knuckle bearings and birfield got Amsoil Moly grease and the wheel bearings got Mobil1 grease which has no moly. After reassembly, and reconnecting the tie rod and drag link, it drives like new. Time for
edit-CDan sent me new drive flanges too at my request. The mild front end clunk after braking is gone. From my expereince, I would say replace those every 100k miles. The splines of the flage are greased with moly grease (no speed, high pressure) It's also nice to have some spares to throw in the parts box.
Last edited:
Cruiserdrew said:I deceided it's actually quicker to pound out the old races and toss the old bearings, then it is to clean up the old bearings and reuse. Lesson learned.BINGO, we have a winner..........
I have been doing this for years..........You also KNOW you are in good shape.
cruiserdan said:Cruiserdrew said:I deceided it's actually quicker to pound out the old races and toss the old bearings, then it is to clean up the old bearings and reuse. Lesson learned.BINGO, we have a winner..........
I have been doing this for years..........You also KNOW you are in good shape.
Man, you've got way too much cash on hand. Using OEM bearings at $100.00 a wheel is not enough for you to take a few minutes to clean them.
And I know my bearings are good to go, I just cleaned them and inspected them for issues
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
- Thread starter
- #33
landtank said:Man, you've got way too much cash on hand. Using OEM bearings at $100.00 a wheel is not enough for you to take a few minutes to clean them.
For $100 per wheel, I WOULD reuse. For the $29 per wheel that I paid, I'll put in new ones. I know that the inner bearings were the same part # as OEM. I forgot to look at the outers. I guess I didn't realize the OEM ones from Toyota were so expensive.
Andrew,
I just redid my front axle and I had the same (but worse) markings on my inner bearings (more of that later). It was caused by me not replacing the races on the hub when I repacked last time (60K) ago and just cleaning and putting in new bearings. I didn't realise that bearings and races HAVE TO MATCH and don't change one without the other. Duh!
I've had loose wheel and retightened bearings a few times since that last repack. Any discoloration or markings on the rollers or bearing casing means its toast (even if it looks 'fine' to my non-mechanic eyes
Beware the issues can also lead to damaged spindles and non-sealing hubs and hence more oil/grease mixing and leakage.
I just redid my front axle and I had the same (but worse) markings on my inner bearings (more of that later). It was caused by me not replacing the races on the hub when I repacked last time (60K) ago and just cleaning and putting in new bearings. I didn't realise that bearings and races HAVE TO MATCH and don't change one without the other. Duh!
I've had loose wheel and retightened bearings a few times since that last repack. Any discoloration or markings on the rollers or bearing casing means its toast (even if it looks 'fine' to my non-mechanic eyes
Beware the issues can also lead to damaged spindles and non-sealing hubs and hence more oil/grease mixing and leakage.
Cruiserdrew said:For $100 per wheel, I WOULD reuse. For the $29 per wheel that I paid, I'll put in new ones. I know that the inner bearings were the same part # as OEM. I forgot to look at the outers. I guess I didn't realize the OEM ones from Toyota were so expensive.
The Timkens at AZ are the same numbers as the OEM Timkens.
Rough pricing:
AZ Timkens 30.00 per wheel
OEM Timkens 50.00 per wheel
OEM Koyo 100.00 per wheel
I'm pretty sure CDan only uses the Koyos in his truck.
Koyos are more like 75 bucks a wheel and OEM Tmkins are about 55 bucks a wheel.
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