Undercarriage jerry cans? (1 Viewer)

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Good Idea LS1! but The main goal of my system was to keep it above the frame rails. For a purely overland/dirt road camping rig, it would work great. But I plan to wheel it quite a pit and did not want to add the weight of an extra skid plate to protect the cans. I was talking to DS Tactical, (where I bought em) And they assured me that It would not be an issue. They stressed the fact that they would not do this with anything but the Scepter Military Cans. Ill just have to test it and see!
 
Why not use 10L Jerry cans and stand them up? The tray would end up hanging down another 4.5" (11" tall for a 10L jerry can vs 6.5" wide for a 20L) but then the can would be upright how they are supposed to be transported.

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Scepter MFC's don't leak. Not a drop if you have the lid on tight.

I personally wouldn't worry about having them on their sides.
 
I wouldn't be concerned with diesel but petrol would concern me having them lay on their side. Not because of leaking but the pressurization. But maybe that isn't a concern and I'm overthinking it.
 
I decided to go ahead and Try to come up with a way to do this on my HDJ81. The main advantage for me is to have only one swing out on the rear bumper, be able to bring 2 Jerry cans for emergency/better range, keep the weight low and be easy enough to get to them for the odd time that I will.

The basket is made from 3x3x 1/4 6061 aluminum angle. I used the factory holes on the cross member to mount a bracket for the hinges. I also used the factory spare tire chain winch to raise and lower the basket.View attachment 1267590 The factory spring loaded bracket locks in to a receiver tray bolted to the back of the basket.View attachment 1267595
The chain winch is bolted to the rear bumper.
View attachment 1267597
When in the fully up position the front lip of the chain receiver tray stops against a stopper welded to the hitch cross member. In this position, it is very easy to take full Jerry's on and off the basket.
View attachment 1267601
Beautiful! Well done.
 
I had purchased a spare 37" in san Diego a while back and found 68lbs of uncut white goodness inside!

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Fast forward

Bought a cheapie helicopter and pay a dewd to follow me around and fuel me up whenever i call him down :)

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That is really slick, well done! Bonus points if you devise a system to get the fuel into the tank without lifting the cans out of there :)
 
@FlyAddiction,
Very nice design! I've been thinking of this, too! :) Using the spare tire hoist is brilliant. What did you use for hinges? Are the hinges attached to a flat plate bolted to the cross-member? Do you have any pics of that part of the assembly (tough to see in pics above)?
Thanks for sharing!
 
@FlyAddiction,
Very nice design! I've been thinking of this, too! :) Using the spare tire hoist is brilliant. What did you use for hinges? Are the hinges attached to a flat plate bolted to the cross-member? Do you have any pics of that part of the assembly (tough to see in pics above)?
Thanks for sharing!

I used some heavy duty hinges from the local hardware store. Ill take better pictures and post soon. I might upgrade to good piano hinges if this current setup does not hold up.
 
Don't you have a factory sub tank ? If not, easy fix from the wreckers....
 
Start of my Gas Can Holder. Thought the Dimensions might help others going the Scepter Costco Red Can Route.
 

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@FlyAddiction

How close does the exhaust come to the cans? I assume the carrier must be biased toward the side opposite the exhaust as opposed to centered about the chassis. Would love to see a pic of exhaust side of things.

Thanks...don
I made this socket to be able to activate the winch effortlessly with my air ratchet and on board air. A regular 3/8 ratchet can also be used.
View attachment 1267615
View attachment 1267616

When fully up, nothing sticks out bellow the frame rails. Its a tight fit but it works!View attachment 1267619
 
On the first picture you can see the actual clearance between the exhaust and the tray. (3" exhaust for scale reference ). On the second picture you can see the distance between the exhaust and the cans. On that corner there is a void between the tray and the cans and the aluminum disipate heat very quickly. I went up a steep dirt track in low 2 up to 2500m this weekend and the tray was barely warm to the touch.
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Pictures coming.
I have the box built and a piece of channel (C4x5.4) to mount box to that spans the frame rails.
Frame is 40.5" Wide and frame opening is 41"
My design is tucked tight so there is a lot of stuff below that would need ripped off before you would get close to the box.
This is a 3 can design, but maybe the far right will only hold water instead of gas due to proximity of Exhaust.

The weight of full unit would be under 100 lbs so a lighter design is needed (used 1x1x1/8 Angle and Expanded Metal)
Think; 2 straps hold most 25 gallon fuel tanks up (why they don't make them out of stainless I will never know).

I have the Scepter Cans.

I would really like to know how hot the exhaust gets because gasoline has more explosive energy than TriNitroToluene per pound.
Will source a $25 IR Thermometer, but if someone could shoot it that would be awesome and save me tons of work. Most concerned where it passes over frame (have a 96) before it drops by spare tire.
 
Pictures coming.
I have the box built and a piece of channel (C4x5.4) to mount box to that spans the frame rails.
Frame is 40.5" Wide and frame opening is 41"
My design is tucked tight so there is a lot of stuff below that would need ripped off before you would get close to the box.
This is a 3 can design, but maybe the far right will only hold water instead of gas due to proximity of Exhaust.

The weight of full unit would be under 100 lbs so a lighter design is needed (used 1x1x1/8 Angle and Expanded Metal)
Think; 2 straps hold most 25 gallon fuel tanks up (why they don't make them out of stainless I will never know).

I have the Scepter Cans.

I would really like to know how hot the exhaust gets because gasoline has more explosive energy than TriNitroToluene per pound.
Will source a $25 IR Thermometer, but if someone could shoot it that would be awesome and save me tons of work. Most concerned where it passes over frame (have a 96) before it drops by spare tire.

3 Can Will NOT work.
Converting my rack to 2 can rack.
Exhaust gets 130 degrees where it is closest to cans (165 right behind cats). Dash hits 140 if left in sun with windows up.
Will post pics when it's all done. I went as simple as possible. Now I have a hvy spare to contend with till I get a roof rack or rear bumper.
 

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