unable to adjust torsion bars...

[alteredraptor]

ok, 1987 4runner, ifs, I've adjusted them once before and yet by smoothly, but I need to adjust them once more. my problem is, is that no matter how much I spray the bolts with a rust penetrant, I can not loosen the lock nut to adjust the adjuster nut... does anyone here have any suggestions as to how I should go about this?

 

[jynx]

Will they go either direction? I actually broke one of mine a few years ago trying to adjust it. Once I got it out, the threads were stripped just where they were in the block they thread into. I ended up replacing both with new ones and gobbed them with anti-seize. I haven't tried to adjust them lately but I hope they will still turn.

 

[alteredraptor]

well so far I've only tried one side, but the most I can do is just turn the whole bolt, I'm trying to loosen up the lock nut so I can actually adjust it.

 

[alteredraptor]

and it does turn in both directions

 

[toy4x4runner]

Leverage. Try linking 2 combo wrenches together. If yours brake i have a set of the long bolts you can have for cost of shipping.

 

[alteredraptor]

I have tried using two wrenches, that is not getting me anywhere, I might just have to get those bolts from ya and cut mine out

 

[bryan89]

do you have the tire corresponding to the torsion bar that you are trying to remove off the ground??


lift by the frame as much as required for the front tire to come off the ground. this will release much of the torsion. then get a long pipe to attach over the handle of your socket wrench. about 4 ft will do it. try to get it off that way.

if that doesnt work, try to tighten it about an eighth or quarter of a turn to break it loose, then try to back it off.

if you cant even tighten it with 4ft of leverage....then you might have to break out the torch....heat the nut only to expand the metal around the threads. often i find just the fact that its heat cycled once or twice is enough to bust it loose.

 

[bryan89]

dumb question but....you realize there is two nuts on it right? the top is a lock nut, which has to be undone first.

if the two nuts are tightened up where the faces match, it could look like one nut...and you would never get it off like that...


not likely....but just had to mention it.. lol

 

[jynx]

Don't remember if I had one or two nuts, but this talk has reminded me that when I broke mine I had a wrench wedged against the frame, a 1/2" breaker bar with my hi-lift handle on it as a cheater. I had been trying to work it back and forth to get it loosened and it sheared off in the middle of the bracket. I got the big adjuster nuts and bolts from the dealer.

Not to be all doom and gloom, but if I were you I would go ahead and get Sam to get you a couple on the way because there is a really good chance if it is that stuck it will likely break.

 

[KLF]

I've removed quite a few of these, here's what I would do.

Get new bolts and nuts. Steve's (toy4x4runner) came of an AZ truck, they are probably in decent shape. I also have an extra set. New ones from Sam aren't that expensive either.

Once you have them in hand, jack the truck up, get the weight off the front wheels. Put STURDY stands under the truck, you will be wrenching hard on things, make sure it's stable.

You will need a good long 22mm box/combo wrench, and a 22mm socket on a breaker bar, with probably a cheater pipe. You'll also need some zipties, duct tape, and a small chunk of steel, maybe 3"x3" or so.

Put the 22mm combo wrench on the upper nut, wedged against the frame, held in place with zipties. Duct tape the chunk of steel on TOP of the upper end of the long bolt.

Now, put the socket and breaker bar on the bottom adjuster bolt head. Brace yourself well, but DO NOT lay directly under the bolt. Now crank on that thing until you almost have a stroke. What you are trying to do is snap the bolt. When it does snap, the socket and bottom piece will come flying downward and smack the ground, so you don't want to be under it. The combo wrench will go flying, so the zipties keep it in place. And the upper end will fly up hard and strike the floor of the cab. I have seen these things actually poke a hole in the floor in that big dimple, so the chunk of steel will keep that from happening.

Slather the newer bolts with anti-sieze, install, and adjust as you need.

BTW, the '86-89 series trucks have 2 nuts on the top, the main one and a locknut. For some reason the next generation only has one big nut on top, no jam nut.

 

[toy4x4runner]

No no no all wrong. Ive done this a thousand times before. All you need is a rubber band, a paper clip, a tennis ball, and a shoe string... Just kidding. KLFs method sounds good.

 

[alteredraptor]

well to clarify things, I have said that I have done it before, and I'm trying to loosen the lock nut, so I can get to the adjuster, I am aware that there are two nuts on the torsion bars. I've tried to tighten it a little to try and loosen, but no luck. and when you say Sam, I got confused because my name is also Sam, and I'm not sure who your talking about there. but KLF does have a good idea there, my only concern with that is, is there a chance that the bracket the torsion bar sits on will bend at all?

 

[KLF]

No no no all wrong. Ive done this a thousand times before. All you need is a rubber band, a paper clip, a tennis ball, and a shoe string...

Wise ass... no more free parts for you!

well to clarify things, I have said that I have done it before, and I'm trying to loosen the lock nut, so I can get to the adjuster, I am aware that there are two nuts on the torsion bars. I've tried to tighten it a little to try and loosen, but no luck. and when you say Sam, I got confused because my name is also Sam, and I'm not sure who your talking about there. but KLF does have a good idea there, my only concern with that is, is there a chance that the bracket the torsion bar sits on will bend at all?

Sam is Sam Stewart at Lowe Toyota. Look for other posts on here, great source of OEM parts at great prices.

I've replaced several sets of torsion bars on these, and my SOP was to give the adjuster a try with the impact gun, but if they didn't turn easily, then I would just snap them. Never bent anything. Just make sure to get the vehicle weight off the wheels, otherwise the truck will SLAM down on the bumpstops when the bolt snaps.

 

[KLF]

Btw, here's what the two versions of the adjusters look like. Top one is from my '87 when I did my SAS in '02, they came right out because my truck was also from the southwest. Bottom one is from a '94 4Runner.

 

[alteredraptor]

I'll have to look into that, thanks

 

[jynx]

Now I get it. My truck is a 90 so I just had the one big adjuster nut.

KLF do you know if the late model nuts and bolts will work on an earlier model?

 

[hzjoe]

heat.torch em is the only way.

 

[alteredraptor]

tight fit to get a torch without roasting my floor

 

[KLF]

KLF do you know if the late model nuts and bolts will work on an earlier model?

Dunno for sure. I'll make you the same offer though, I have that pair of adjusters from the '94 4Runner (see photo above for one of them), if you PayPal me $8 to cover shipping and fees, I'll drop them in the mail to you.

heat.torch em is the only way.

I did this once on a truck I was parting out, and the frame & cab were junk. Big BANG when the bolt let loose and a flaming hot piece of steel came flying off at me. No thanks. The other end right right thru the floor of the cab.

 

[toy4x4runner]

Hear are mine. The smaller lock nut is long gone but they are in good shape.