Typical AC problems - blinking light (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jul 22, 2023
Threads
1
Messages
8
Location
Katy, TX
Please help diagnose my AC problem. I have searched and read many threads with similar issue. This seems to be a common problem, however I cannot find a resolution. What should I try next?

The car is a 2002 LX470 (with rear AC) with about 144k miles, it has been in my family since new. It spent time in Nebraska and New Hampshire before coming to south Texas in 2018, so unfortunately there is some moderate rust on the undercarriage, however it has been a very reliable vehicle and I acquired it for really cheap. There has not been any work done or other service on the vehicle (i.e. timing belt) that happened around the time of these AC system failures.

Here is the summary of the AC troubles:

Summer 2021 – on occasion the AC light would blink and the system blew warm air. Pressing the AC button a few times would normally bring the system back to normal. A few months later, the system completely died on a long road trip to Florida in November. The compressor had seized. The system still held full pressure, there were no leaks. The compressor had about 1-2 oz of oil upon removal. I replaced the compressor (with an aftermarket unit), dryer and expansion valve. I refilled the system to spec and everything worked perfect for about 16 months.

Spring / Summer 2023 – AC light occasional blinking starts again. Sometimes pressing the button will bring it back on, sometimes it won’t turn on at all. This issue happens randomly – on cold starts, warm starts, in the middle of a drive, etc. Sometimes the screen flashes “check air conditioning system”. I do not recall seeing that message displayed when the system failed in 2021. When the system does work, the vent air is 45-deg or less. This time around, I have inspected the following parts:

MG-CLT relay: I have done a simple 12V test and confirmed it works.

Serpentine belt & pulleys: great condition, no issues found

Fan clutch: looks and feels normal, engine cooling system works as normal even in hot traffic. The fact that the AC problem can happen at cold starts leads me to believe it’s not related to the engine cooling system.

Electrical connectors on AC compressor and front pressure switch: all are normal, fully seated and not damaged.

Battery is normal, no excessive corrosion or trouble starting the engine.

Let me know what I should try next. The car is not a daily driver, so there is no rush. I have a fair amount of experience fixing car AC systems, so I’m willing and able to do a full tear-down if necessary (however I’ll wait until the winter months). In recent years I have done full system replacements (including dash-out evap cores) on an old Suburban and a Dodge Magnum.

Thanks!
 
You Checked refrigerant levels?
I've also seen someone on the forums report an issue with the smoke detector.
I'm also investigating my own a/c blinking light after 3-4 seconds clutch disengageds. Haven't been able to trace the issue yet. Leaning towards bad compressor speed sensor. Because I can keep the a/c clutch engaged if engine rpm above 2000. Goodluck.
 
I would suggest using a multimeter to check the resistance at plug connector on compressor. Connecting to probes will give you an ohms reading. I fought this issue for too long. The advice and picture below from @flintknapper solved my issue….. which was a new compressor.

74E4DB20-BDFD-4BF4-B6DB-40637BF54955.png
 
I'm going to check mine now... will report back.
I would suggest using a multimeter to check the resistance at plug connector on compressor. Connecting to probes will give you an ohms reading. I fought this issue for too long. The advice and picture below from @flintknapper solved my issue….. which was a new compressor.

View attachment 3382201
I get reading of .846 k ohm 84 degrees farenheight. Look good?

20230724_102146.jpg


20230724_102238.jpg


I also checked the clutch ohm reads 4.3

20230723_224521.jpg


20230723_224514.jpg


20230723_224013.jpg
 
Last edited:
I just tested my good compressor at 830ish as well.
 
Guys, I appreciate the replies. Here are a few updates:

1. A week ago, I unplugged the 3-pin connector to the compressor to inspect it. I re-seated it and left it alone. The AC has been working perfectly all week since that - no shut downs.

2. Tested the pressures: low = 46psi, high = 265psi @ 90-deg ambient.

3. Measured resistance across the compressor connector pins (per BullElk above) and got 864-Ohm.
 
I would suggest using a multimeter to check the resistance at plug connector on compressor. Connecting to probes will give you an ohms reading. I fought this issue for too long. The advice and picture below from @flintknapper solved my issue….. which was a new compressor.

View attachment 3382201
Why are there two different images with different resistance ranges? Which one is correct for a 2002 LX? Thanks.
 
Why are there two different images with different resistance ranges? Which one is correct for a 2002 LX? Thanks.
I do not know that answer. At the time I received the pictures and info I had been exhaustively battling the issue for a while. I then tested resistance getting 600s ohms I believe it was, replaced compressor and it has been flawless for a few years now.
 
Just took this from “LC100 Workshop Manual”

Apparently for all 2UZ-FE engjnes

C2CEA804-A985-44CE-8E8D-384390FC7D53.jpeg
 
A couple more updates. The AC has been working ~90% of the time, occasionally cutting out, then I push the AC button a few times then it's ice cold.

I unplugged the main 3-pin connector on the compressor, and lightly squeezed/bent the female conductors on the car side, to make sure they will maintain contact with the male pins on the compressor side. One theory I have is that if this connector is loose, or if there is inadequate contact between the conductors, it could cut out sporadically.

Another thing I did today was to replace the serpentine belt, which hasn't been replaced since 2013 according to my records. The old belt looked fine, however I think it might have stretched out a little. The new one was much tighter on the tensioner pulley when I installed it. Maybe the old belt was slipping?

I'll update again if anything changes.
 
Another thing, I tried unplugging the "smoke sensor" when the AC cut out, and it didn't make a difference. It had no effect.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom