I was prepared to rag on them for charging an additional $45 that wasn't disclosed in the estimate. When I got there they knocked off the $45 so left not feeling so bad.
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter jfz80
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I was prepared to rag on them for charging an additional $45 that wasn't disclosed in the estimate. When I got there they knocked off the $45 so left not feeling so bad.
I think David (think that's his name) at Olivers also works direct with east coast gear in Raleigh if you need gears or gear set-ups.
Not really wrenching, but you should enjoy this.
My 40's paint needed some help. Mainly the hood and fenders. I went to HF (first mistake) and bought a variable speed polisher so I could compound and wax the paint.
I know with polishers you need to load up the pad with compound/wax so it's not too dry and burn the paint.
I loaded the pad with compound and set the polisher to level 1. This setting bogged the polisher down so I went to level 2. When I started the polisher, off the paint, the speed was good. Then the polisher jumped to max RPM for no reason. Within seconds everything in my garage 3' off the ground was splattered with compound. I mean everything. My 40's doors, the hardtop, motorcycle, tool box, work bench, windshield, my shirt.
I put the polisher back in the box and finished by hand.
I have cleaned up some of it, but this is a big job. Did I mention it was everywhere?
Who else has a garage screw-up story?
My 40's paint needed some help. Mainly the hood and fenders. I went to HF (first mistake) and bought a variable speed polisher so I could compound and wax the paint.
I know with polishers you need to load up the pad with compound/wax so it's not too dry and burn the paint.
I loaded the pad with compound and set the polisher to level 1. This setting bogged the polisher down so I went to level 2. When I started the polisher, off the paint, the speed was good. Then the polisher jumped to max RPM for no reason. Within seconds everything in my garage 3' off the ground was splattered with compound. I mean everything. My 40's doors, the hardtop, motorcycle, tool box, work bench, windshield, my shirt.
I put the polisher back in the box and finished by hand.
I have cleaned up some of it, but this is a big job. Did I mention it was everywhere?
Who else has a garage screw-up story?
Transfer Case Rebuild (Part I)
Drove down to Raeford and picked up a TC for the 40 (Thanks Darin). Not installed yet but the plan is to pull the one in there now that, in addition to being whinier than usual it has a wee bit of a rumble to it, a leak at the speedo cable, and a wobble on the front shaft bearing.
Stopped off at the car wash to knock off the big stuff, so this is what was left when it got home:
I wouldn't have minded leaving a little dirt on it, but doggone it, every time Brad (@lowtops) works on his 40 he makes the rest of us look bad, so had to step things up a little. After completing the disassembly came lots of scrubbing.
Including bolts, so pulled out the rock tumbler.
Drove down to Raeford and picked up a TC for the 40 (Thanks Darin). Not installed yet but the plan is to pull the one in there now that, in addition to being whinier than usual it has a wee bit of a rumble to it, a leak at the speedo cable, and a wobble on the front shaft bearing.
Stopped off at the car wash to knock off the big stuff, so this is what was left when it got home:
I wouldn't have minded leaving a little dirt on it, but doggone it, every time Brad (@lowtops) works on his 40 he makes the rest of us look bad, so had to step things up a little. After completing the disassembly came lots of scrubbing.
Including bolts, so pulled out the rock tumbler.
TC rebuild (Part II)
Darin said this was a low miles unit, but WOW. Not a single ridge on any sealed or machined shaft. It honestly did not need a rebuild but it seemed silly going to all the work of trading units and not putting in new stuff.
Ready:
What causes most of the whine. Idler gear bearings and/or idler shaft gone.
The largest PITA was naturally the smallest part. New pilot bearing for the nose shaft.
All internal goodies back.
Completed until install day. Right now the preload is a little high but will adjust later.
Darin said this was a low miles unit, but WOW. Not a single ridge on any sealed or machined shaft. It honestly did not need a rebuild but it seemed silly going to all the work of trading units and not putting in new stuff.
Ready:
What causes most of the whine. Idler gear bearings and/or idler shaft gone.
The largest PITA was naturally the smallest part. New pilot bearing for the nose shaft.
All internal goodies back.
Completed until install day. Right now the preload is a little high but will adjust later.
Wowzers. That's clean. Makes me want to run out and buy a sandblaster and get under my 40 for a few hours.
Good to know. [emoji16]
Interesting data point:
Victim: Spanish market BJ73, 1989.
Front brake rotors originally were 43512-60040 which supersedes to 43512-60100, the late 40/55/60/62/7x front rotors.
The originals had two M10x 1.25 bolts holding the rotor to the wheel hub.
The superseded number eschews these two bolts and allows the 6 wheel studs to hold the rotor in place.
The wheel studs do have a longer serrated portion to "bite" into the rotor housing itself.
So Toyota cheaper it and took away the suspenders and just left the belt.
Anyway, I was supposed to be having fun in Charlotte today but instead I am wrenching.
Victim: Spanish market BJ73, 1989.
Front brake rotors originally were 43512-60040 which supersedes to 43512-60100, the late 40/55/60/62/7x front rotors.
The originals had two M10x 1.25 bolts holding the rotor to the wheel hub.
The superseded number eschews these two bolts and allows the 6 wheel studs to hold the rotor in place.
The wheel studs do have a longer serrated portion to "bite" into the rotor housing itself.
So Toyota cheaper it and took away the suspenders and just left the belt.
Anyway, I was supposed to be having fun in Charlotte today but instead I am wrenching.
elkaholic
Left turn ...freakin wipers!
As a side note ... This is not my 73 
The key to a well done front axle job is not just replacing the parts, gaskets, seals etc.
It's all about cleaning all of the most important components. Studs, housing, calipers, slide pins, bearings, free wheel hubs etc.
The key is cleanliness. Just like Rice's pictures of the xfer above: Everything is clean-- bolts, hardware, housings-- everything. That's where the time intensive aspect comes in with any of these reasonably normal maintenance jobs.
If you neglect to clean things or replace damaged components you'll be going back in and doing everything all over again.
For example, inspecting wheel bearings carefully is paramount.
On an initial inspection, the outer wheel bearing looked great. Upon closer inspection, I found this degradation:
That bearing is toast.
New one should be installed.
Personally things like thrust washers should be replaced since they interact with moving parts (outer wheel bearing).
All studs should be inspected for trueness.
I pull wheel studs out as well just to make sure they haven't been cross threaded and that the serrations on the body are in good shape.
Remember, Toyota designed these machines to act like "tools": IE: They have functional life spans for all components. Just like hours on a Kubota or a 100 ton Trumpf press-- land Cruisers are machines that want interaction, need interaction from the user.
Just my philosophy at least. There are varying levels of this thought stream though.
It's all about cleaning all of the most important components. Studs, housing, calipers, slide pins, bearings, free wheel hubs etc.
The key is cleanliness. Just like Rice's pictures of the xfer above: Everything is clean-- bolts, hardware, housings-- everything. That's where the time intensive aspect comes in with any of these reasonably normal maintenance jobs.
If you neglect to clean things or replace damaged components you'll be going back in and doing everything all over again.
For example, inspecting wheel bearings carefully is paramount.
On an initial inspection, the outer wheel bearing looked great. Upon closer inspection, I found this degradation:
That bearing is toast.
New one should be installed.
Personally things like thrust washers should be replaced since they interact with moving parts (outer wheel bearing).
All studs should be inspected for trueness.
I pull wheel studs out as well just to make sure they haven't been cross threaded and that the serrations on the body are in good shape.
Remember, Toyota designed these machines to act like "tools": IE: They have functional life spans for all components. Just like hours on a Kubota or a 100 ton Trumpf press-- land Cruisers are machines that want interaction, need interaction from the user.
Just my philosophy at least. There are varying levels of this thought stream though.
People have found out real fast at my shop if they want to help on an axle build they will spend most of their time in the solvent tank. Just cleaning stuff. It takes a long time but it looks so much more professional in the end.
Not long ago this this happened in the diesel suburban
so this started happening today
started tearing apart the front of the engine today... tomorrow this is going in
New HO water pump (60 more GPM than stock), harmonic balancer, crank pulley, crank seal, new gaskets for the front side of the engine, timing chain and gears, t-stat, HD fan clutch, Duramax fan upgrade, new Bosch injectors, new return lines and manifold gaskets, new Bosch duraterm glow plugs, new belt, new CDR, new OPS, new lift pump Upgraded lift pump harness.
New CDR is already in
so this started happening today
started tearing apart the front of the engine today... tomorrow this is going in
New HO water pump (60 more GPM than stock), harmonic balancer, crank pulley, crank seal, new gaskets for the front side of the engine, timing chain and gears, t-stat, HD fan clutch, Duramax fan upgrade, new Bosch injectors, new return lines and manifold gaskets, new Bosch duraterm glow plugs, new belt, new CDR, new OPS, new lift pump Upgraded lift pump harness.
New CDR is already in
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Time for the resident 40 to get a front bumper, winch plate, winch and some hoops.
A blend of these
A blend of these
jfz80
Cruisin’
- Thread starter
- #497
Woohoo I can finally enter the 45 from the driver side again. New door handle and latch installed.
Cruiser corp after market units. Needed a little tweaking to make em work but seem fine now. Will have to go for a drive to see if I have the Unlatching other people have reported with non OEM parts
Cruiser corp after market units. Needed a little tweaking to make em work but seem fine now. Will have to go for a drive to see if I have the Unlatching other people have reported with non OEM parts
40 Transfer case rebuild (part 3) ... Install
The bad news ... Not a single picture. Well, not from me. I planned on it but a comedy of errors lead me to the "F the pictures" state of mind so I put my head down and got to work.
Reset the main shaft preload on the tcase and got it ready for install.
Issue one ... Thought I could cut loose the old tcase and clear the cross member to get it off. No go. Could not get the rear of the tcase to sag enough for it to clear. Therefore, had to break it loose at the NV4500/AA adapter join. If only I had remembered the AA adapter is where 5th gear lives and not just an empty box I would have drained the tranny oil before 4 quarts of it hit the floor!
Issue 2 ... Wow ... Some tcases have a boss for shifter linkage and some don't. Had to make a swap of 2/4 shift housing bolted to the nose of the tcase.
Stolen web pic:
Issue 3 ... Whoa ... The Hi/Lo shift fork linkage has a 90 degree difference between 74 and 78. Another parts swap.
That pretty much took care of most issues. The actual install of the new tcase, with big help from @jfz80, went smoothly. No test drive yet since now I need to get 4 more quarts of really expensive tranny oil but will report back.
While I did not get any pics Jason may have a couple.
Thanks again, man.
Rice
The bad news ... Not a single picture. Well, not from me. I planned on it but a comedy of errors lead me to the "F the pictures" state of mind so I put my head down and got to work.
Reset the main shaft preload on the tcase and got it ready for install.
Issue one ... Thought I could cut loose the old tcase and clear the cross member to get it off. No go. Could not get the rear of the tcase to sag enough for it to clear. Therefore, had to break it loose at the NV4500/AA adapter join. If only I had remembered the AA adapter is where 5th gear lives and not just an empty box I would have drained the tranny oil before 4 quarts of it hit the floor!
Issue 2 ... Wow ... Some tcases have a boss for shifter linkage and some don't. Had to make a swap of 2/4 shift housing bolted to the nose of the tcase.
Stolen web pic:
Issue 3 ... Whoa ... The Hi/Lo shift fork linkage has a 90 degree difference between 74 and 78. Another parts swap.
That pretty much took care of most issues. The actual install of the new tcase, with big help from @jfz80, went smoothly. No test drive yet since now I need to get 4 more quarts of really expensive tranny oil but will report back.
While I did not get any pics Jason may have a couple.
Thanks again, man.
Rice
jfz80
Cruisin’
- Thread starter
- #499
Enjoyed it; glad I could help.
I missed all the removal process but when I arrived rice was finishing oiling his floor jacks and hand tools and polishing the garage floor
Was odd all the small changes that made a big difference between the two units/years
Swapping over needed parts
A drop of blue will do
Um were gonna need more lift on the truck or less lift on the transmission jack
Ta dah. Back at home
Oh yeah. Step #6
I missed all the removal process but when I arrived rice was finishing oiling his floor jacks and hand tools and polishing the garage floor
Was odd all the small changes that made a big difference between the two units/years
Swapping over needed parts
A drop of blue will do
Um were gonna need more lift on the truck or less lift on the transmission jack
Ta dah. Back at home
Oh yeah. Step #6
I can see @beno laughing his a$$ off. "Noob, everyone knows a double-ought 472 dash 1 didn't come out until october 16, 1975 and it sure as hell won't bolt to a double-ought 472 dash 1a"
