forrest5000
SILVER Star
A RV company in Salisbury NC made a couple ,then lost funding .
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jfz80
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Prior to my trip out West soon I have done and am doing the following on my stuff.
Put new gears / ARB's in my axles, rebuilt my head and replaced a bunch of while I am there stuff. Built the axles, replaced most of my AC stuff also in my 80 which is the one going out with me. Most of the cooling system has been replaced with new also.
Now this week I will be putting in a rebuilt engine in Robin's 80 as hers has almost 300,000 miles and still original HG.
Put new gears / ARB's in my axles, rebuilt my head and replaced a bunch of while I am there stuff. Built the axles, replaced most of my AC stuff also in my 80 which is the one going out with me. Most of the cooling system has been replaced with new also.
Now this week I will be putting in a rebuilt engine in Robin's 80 as hers has almost 300,000 miles and still original HG.
Be safe down range if you are going to fight fires again this year.
A different topic, anyone in Charlotte knows how to wire these things in?
A different topic, anyone in Charlotte knows how to wire these things in?
yes...backwards the wiring is likely not correct
Be safe down range if you are going to fight fires again this year.
A different topic, anyone in Charlotte knows how to wire these things in?
"CarChet" .... that's funny right there.
Taking my time this week as daughter is off on Spring Break, "Luigi" the Fiat needed new tires, oil / filter, air filter, front pads, and spark plugs. Weird size tires, but $100 each is hard to beat for Contis. Been doing it during down times, the Fiat is easy to do all of the above, and with 58K miles on it, is not bad. Everything is so small it's funny. Brake pads come tomorrow, last wrenching for the week.
Will test drive later after I find "I'm a Barbie Girl" song to play.
Will test drive later after I find "I'm a Barbie Girl" song to play.
Still chasing vacuum leaks in my a4. Was pleased when this part (top one) showed up, thought it was a knock off from Taiwan but seems to have a lot of audi logos and part numbers all over it. Good fitment also at about 1/8 of the price as the oem one(bottom)
Much to my dismay, After install I still get the hiss... It's an endless game of cat and mouse... Fix one, find one.. Eventually I will have changed every part in this car... I wish it was so fun to drive so I could just abandon ship.
Much to my dismay, After install I still get the hiss... It's an endless game of cat and mouse... Fix one, find one.. Eventually I will have changed every part in this car... I wish it was so fun to drive so I could just abandon ship.
I want one
Repost
When do we start the club tool rental program?
Going to need someone with deep pockets to buy it out right. And going to need deep pockets to rent it.
Surface Preparation and Cleaning with Laser Technology
Budget one available -
An easy home project (swap out a leaky drain pipe) became a headache when I wrestled with drain nut that fused to the threads after 20 yrs.
After lots of PB blaster and cussing, I finally decided to make MUD proud. Went to the garage to get a power tool... Risky but effective.
After lots of PB blaster and cussing, I finally decided to make MUD proud. Went to the garage to get a power tool... Risky but effective.
My 94 did not have any recovery points in the rear when I purchased it. I have since removed the rusted factory tow hitch and in the process 3 of the welded nuts inside the frame snapped while removing. I am looking to add two recovery points and I am looking over my options. I had custom receiver plate made for the pintle pattern for baskets, bike racks an such. Its a stout piece, 1/4 steel plate welded front and back to the receiver tube. One option is to get a HitchLink and use the plate. The other option is to just pick up some factory hooks and use new mounting hardware (bolts and new nuts) to either go up into the frame, or down through the frame. Its close enough to the end of the frame rail to where I can get a nut on and be able to tighten it down. I am looking for advice on how to proceed.
I would not put any faith into the receiver plate. Even if the plate holds and does not tear off it runs the risk of pulling the rear member back and bowing in the frame rails. Not only would I focus on the frame rails as recovery points I would also scab the backing nuts that are going inside the frame.
Even though the pic below shows a backing plate on the side of the frame you get the idea ....
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
I agree with Rice in that you should focus on the frame rail.
The center can be used for recovery, but it requires some substantial fabrication to support something like a 2" receiver. I generally add another cross member at the back of the 2" receiver and gusset it when I build rear bumpers. I would not use it in stock form.
The center can be used for recovery, but it requires some substantial fabrication to support something like a 2" receiver. I generally add another cross member at the back of the 2" receiver and gusset it when I build rear bumpers. I would not use it in stock form.
Have not worked with scab plates before, so let me dig a little deeper. 1/4" plate inside the frame rail, should the plate be threaded (like in the pic) or is that unnecessary? Also would the plate be tacked into place, or would it just be sandwiched between the frame rail and the nut?
RedHeadedStepChild
Proudly wearing my MC1R mutation!
I don't think the plate is threaded. I think it has a nut welded on the back.
Yea, that would make more sense. Thanks
Cut the plate such that it slides inside the rail. Drill a hole for the bolt to pass through and weld the nut on the other side. If you don't have access to a welder then just use the plate as an oversized washer but the weld keeps you from having to get a wrench in there. At issue is the frame steel really isn't all that thick and can rip.
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