Green Hell Mustang
Designer, Hack Photographer
Thanks Guys, I'm going to give this a try at some point later tomorrow. I'll report back on how it goes.
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread
- Thread starter jfz80
- Start date
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Here is where to hit while prying with a crow bar. 5 or 10 SOLID hits will pop it loose. Leaving the nut on the TRE as shown is a great way to keep you from flying across the garage floor.
I had a horrible rattling sound at Richland Road last weekend that we assumed with a belly plate rubbing on something. I couldn't find anything weird at the time.
This weekend, after pulling the plates back off, I found that the shield that typically "protects" the transfer case was the culprit. I need to remove two bolts and remove it. I think this will solve the issue.
Here is the question: Does anyone ever use a tape that might be high-heat resistant and also have some depth to it? Maybe 1.5-2" wide.
I am thinking about stuff like you put on headers on motorcycles, etc. but super sticky on one side and heat resistant on the other.
Thinking about putting some on these spots that are close to the tranny and xfer case, and a couple other spots just in case the plates bend up, etc.
This weekend, after pulling the plates back off, I found that the shield that typically "protects" the transfer case was the culprit. I need to remove two bolts and remove it. I think this will solve the issue.
Here is the question: Does anyone ever use a tape that might be high-heat resistant and also have some depth to it? Maybe 1.5-2" wide.
I am thinking about stuff like you put on headers on motorcycles, etc. but super sticky on one side and heat resistant on the other.
Thinking about putting some on these spots that are close to the tranny and xfer case, and a couple other spots just in case the plates bend up, etc.
took this...(100% complete)
to this on Saturday
to this on Saturday
Was that in a lake?
Why?
Under trees for a few years.
I needed some parts for my other one. Interior was perfect. Seats looked brand new.
No title and seized motor, rusty frame (but weird, body is good, just moss covered)
scrap the rest to get my $$ back.
I needed some parts for my other one. Interior was perfect. Seats looked brand new.
No title and seized motor, rusty frame (but weird, body is good, just moss covered)
scrap the rest to get my $$ back.
this was the debacle of trying to get it up a REAL slippery, muddy, narrow hill. Screwed with that for over an hour.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Frame, motor mounts and cross member all painted and drive train resting comfortably in it's new home. On to the multitude of details prior to being fired up.
Green Hell Mustang
Designer, Hack Photographer
@GLTHFJ60 and @Rice...I got the relay rods out this afternoon, Thanks for all the recommendations. I used a combination of techniques, and am far less sore than I was on Saturday. On a similar note the relay rods made a really horrible sound when they popped out, made me jump each time one came out.
Again, thanks for the recommendations!
Again, thanks for the recommendations!
Productive morning. The 80 has new window runs. Much smoother but I still think the motors are a tad weak.
Big thanks to Rice for some McGyver style custom fab work getting the rear door handle on my 40 done.
I'm posting in here about it, because he poked fun at the fact that I might.
No pics unfortunately. Rice used small sections of a steel fuel line to create sleeves over two bolts, creating a nice smooth pivoting surface for the now correctly positioned rear door handle. After this, I reattached my rear tire mod in the reverse position from where I had extended it, thus completely obscuring my license plate but allowing full operation of the rear entryway! My kids will be thrilled they don't have to crawl over the front seat.
Thanks Rice, and Jason for additional wrenching and support.
Blue Steel thanks you...
I'm posting in here about it, because he poked fun at the fact that I might.
No pics unfortunately. Rice used small sections of a steel fuel line to create sleeves over two bolts, creating a nice smooth pivoting surface for the now correctly positioned rear door handle. After this, I reattached my rear tire mod in the reverse position from where I had extended it, thus completely obscuring my license plate but allowing full operation of the rear entryway! My kids will be thrilled they don't have to crawl over the front seat.
Thanks Rice, and Jason for additional wrenching and support.
Blue Steel thanks you...
Big thanks to Rice for some McGyver style custom fab work getting the rear door handle on my 40 done.
I'm posting in here about it, because he poked fun at the fact that I might.
No pics unfortunately. Rice used small sections of a steel fuel line to create sleeves over two bolts, creating a nice smooth pivoting surface for the now correctly positioned rear door handle. After this, I reattached my rear tire mod in the reverse position from where I had extended it, thus completely obscuring my license plate but allowing full operation of the rear entryway! My kids will be thrilled they don't have to crawl over the front seat.
Thanks Rice, and Jason for additional wrenching and support.
Blue Steel thanks you...
Any time. I didn't get any pictures of my new "made of bling" fuel line either.
Very minor wrenching and a couple of new drilled holes... To go from this crappy trailer light rear lights,
Into this... Which is correct for a 69. All OEM parts.
Almost forgot
Went from Q ball shifters:
Into this... Which is correct for a 69. All OEM parts.
Almost forgot
Went from Q ball shifters:
Last edited:
To
Yep 1 reverse light, in the fender.
Thanks! I think it's a huge improvement. Gotta get a steering wheel next.
And a shift knob for the torque splitter.
Thanks! I think it's a huge improvement. Gotta get a steering wheel next.
And a shift knob for the torque splitter.
Worked on my front bumper today...not finished, but installed
forrest5000
SILVER Star
Installed roof top tent.
Which one is that. Me likey
