Turn the housing?

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ColonelMustard

ColonelMustard

Joined
Jan 26, 2007
Threads
47
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Location
Belmont, California
I saw a toyota mechanic today and he said that if I do a spring-over, I should have him also take the front axle off, cut and turn the housing then re-weld so that the angle is better. Then move the 2" spring brackets from the front to the rear which will correct the steering. And while evrything is off, remove the drums and do the front disk brakes. He said that if I am putting 37 or 38 inch tires on, if the drums ever get wet, they will never stop that size tire. Does this sound correct?


Thanks

M
 
Yep! All of the above. Spring overs aren't as cheap as they seem......
 
but there is no other way,


typical to do c&t when doing an soa
 
There is in fact another way and it's not exactly unknown. a C&T is a "right" way to do an SOA. But not the only. I have done a LOT of SOA conversions. With a '40, my normal approach is to extened the wheelbase by reversing the springs and NOT do a C&T Works great. I've done at more than 2 dozen '40s this way with no problems or complaints.

I don't do or advocate SRs. More disadvantages and complications than advantages. Do a serch here and you'll find a lot of info about this.

Disc brakes are a must for tires in the 38 inch range. While drums *can* stop them, it is at best a problematic approach.


Mark...
 
The lifer's know it all man!!!
With tires in that size range, I'd definitely convert to front disc brakes a the minimum or all four at that matter. Disc brakes are a good investment on all Cruisers that don't have them already. On the plus side your 71 has power brakes already, I think 71 one was the first year for that option too.
 
That's not because of the lack of a C&T

I've got four SOA '40s at the shop right now with no C&T and 38-40 inch tires. I can go out and take any one of them down the highway at 70mph with no front end problems. Or front driveline vibration.


Mark...
 
Thanks for the feedback all,
The SO, the shackle reversal, and the front discs, were quoted at $3000 parts and labor. He was going to take a front end off another '71 and get that all ready, pre order the parts, so my truck wont be sitting in the shop for weeks. Then bolt everything on. I don't know if this is a good fair price. I live in the SF Bay area, so the cost of living here is the highest in the US so take that into consideration if you have a comment on the cost of getting this done.
Thanks again

M
 
So Mark, what steps do you take for a SOA? You make it sound as simple as drop the axles, flip the springs, axles back on, lengthen the drivelines, and address steering? Is that about it?

Just curious.

Thanks!
 
It can be pretty simple.

Reverse the springs for an extra 7-8 inches of wheel base. Spin the 2nd leaf in each pack so that the mil-wrap stays at the frame end. You'll need to redrill this leaf.

Install longer shackles to correct for the new caster angle created by the new spring/axle relationship. This is important. I don't remember the exact number right now, but the shackle from the rear of a '55 is the length that works for most stock spring SOAs. Use new bushings on all springs.

Put new perches on top of your axles, 180 degrees off from the originals.

Put taller towers in for the front shocks. Possibly turn the lower tabs backwards for clearance (particularly for clearance from a double knuckle arm on the passenger side). Relocate the upper pins inboard and on the back of the crossmember for the rear shocks and put pins on the back of the old spring perches of the rear axle.

Use longer brakelines. Use longer shocks.

Use a double knuckle arm or hysteer system if you prefer.

Lengthen your driveshafts and clearance your yoke assemblies. Length is important, long or short is bad. The longer DS that can be used with the reversed springs is what lets this approach work without a C&T. The longer shaft results in milder ujoint angles for the same amount of lift. The angles are still fairly steep. But perfectly acceptable. You will experience slightly shorter ujoint life, and any imperfections in the shaft will create more vibration than they would at stock angles. But again, it is perfectly acceptable. Ujoints last for a couple/three seasons of heavy use. At least. you can expect vibration free highway speeds in 4wd if your shafts are done right and your pinion/caster angles are correct.


That's really about it for a basic SOA.

You have to do everything right. You have to make sure that you measure carefully. Depending on what you do with steering brakes, articulation maximization non-stock springs or whatever else you may want to change... it can get more complicated.


Nothing wrong with a C&T. I've done a few that way too. Many people overlook the fact that you have to use a DC front driveshaft if you want to point the pinion up and use the rig in 4wd or even with the hubs locked at highway speed.

I also like the other improvements that go along with a longer wheel base., whrther you get it by simply flipping the sprimngs around or if you install other springs entirely.



Mark...
 
This is the simple stuff.


You can make it a lot more complicated and complex depending one just what your goal is.

Mark...
 
A longer drive train plus flipped springs makes my front drive shaft long. No C&T and I dont think Ive ever bound up.
 
Well crap...I wish this thread was posted a week earlier. I just cut and turned my axle three days ago. Haven't even got it welded back up. After all the threads I read before doing, I thought the C&T and pointing pinion towards the TC was by far the best way to go.

Interesting idea here..has anyone doing a C&T for a SOA only turned the axle say 3 - 4 degrees to give a better final castor angle and then flipped the springs and left the pinion parallel to the TC? With the longer driveshaft (less angle relative to TC), would this work without unwanted vibrations. With this setup (pinion parallel to TC) they you wouldn't have to install the double cardan shaft.

Also, when flipping the springs in rear and increasing drivetrain length, is leaving the rear pinion parallel to TC a good or bad idea. From what I understand, most folks point both the front and rear pinion towards the TC and I'm sure they do that for good reason.
 
Same long drivetrain makes the rear drive shaft very short, so that pinion is pointed toward the T case with a double cardan.

Ive thought about doing the C&T just to raise the pinion and DS a little more out of harms way, but it works OK the way it is.
 
texas dogman said:
Well crap...I wish this thread was posted a week earlier. I just cut and turned my axle three days ago. Haven't even got it welded back up. After all the threads I read before doing, I thought the C&T and pointing pinion towards the TC was by far the best way to go.

Interesting idea here..has anyone doing a C&T for a SOA only turned the axle say 3 - 4 degrees to give a better final castor angle and then flipped the springs and left the pinion parallel to the TC? With the longer driveshaft (less angle relative to TC), would this work without unwanted vibrations. With this setup (pinion parallel to TC) they you wouldn't have to install the double cardan shaft.

Also, when flipping the springs in rear and increasing drivetrain length, is leaving the rear pinion parallel to TC a good or bad idea. From what I understand, most folks point both the front and rear pinion towards the TC and I'm sure they do that for good reason.
Click to expand...


Some guys have incoporated increased caster in their C&Ts. No reason you could not do a mild rotation solely for this purpose.

If you point the rear diff upwards, you have the same considerations as the front. DC shaft called for.

Never assume that people have a good reason for anything they do when it comes to popular mods. Lots of stuff gets done simply because "everyone" does it, or because so and so from the internet did his that way. ;)

Personally I am more likely to turn the rear pinion up and run a DC shaft in back than in front. Since the rear shaft is shorter, angles are more severe. Especially if you have a long drivetrain.



Mark...
 
Thanks Mark for this input. I may just try the mild turn to increase the castor and keep the front pinion parallel to TC. With other mods planned, front drive shaft should be long enough to keep from binding.
 
Good info to know Mark!

I am gathering parts for an SOA on my FJ40.

What shackles do you use with your soa's?
Do you do a long shackle in a more 'relaxed' angle?
Say 25 deg vs 45 degrees?
Or are you using stock length shackles?
 
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