turbo build

[Dusty]

There was another thread on a similar subject a while back. That second vent line is 3/8" in diameter. That hose can pass a lot of air. I have a hard time believing that there is enough blow by in the engine to overwhelm that hose's ability to vent it to a point where you pressurize the block and blow out seals.

Perhaps the seals were just in need of replacement

Although those in the speed community know there is significant power to be had by showing the block a vacume. The import community vents to atmosphere all the time and that is my most likely plan

 

[fj80psi]

Rick thats a good idea. I did a check valve in my PCV. Dusty- I always advise people with MAFs in various vehicles to recirc, but in reality it is only noticeably rich for a fraction of a second. Most don't notice any problem or have drivability issues. I'd just try it to atmosphere. I hate to sound like a dumb kid, but my TurboXS RFL sounds insanely cool. It's nuts and makes me smile Wish I could help. You're only about 5 hours away..

 

[landtank]

I did a test yesterday. I have a 220v 7hp twin cylinder air compressor. It develops 12.4 scfm @ 40 psi. It's a craftsman commercial grade unit.

I removed the fitting on the end so that there was a 3/8" nipple exposed. I ran the compressor for 5 minutes and it developed 14psi of pressure. The volume of air coming out of the nipple was huge.

I really don't see blow by alone creating anywhere near this kind of volume or pressure in the engine. If you have seals weeping from the block pressurizing it has to be coming from somewhere else.

 

[Dusty]

I did a test yesterday. I have a 220v 7hp twin cylinder air compressor. It develops 12.4 scfm @ 40 psi. It's a craftsman commercial grade unit.

I removed the fitting on the end so that there was a 3/8" nipple exposed. I ran the compressor for 5 minutes and it developed 14psi of pressure. The volume of air coming out of the nipple was huge.

I really don't see blow by alone creating anywhere near this kind of volume or pressure in the engine. If you have seals weeping from the block pressurizing it has to be coming from somewhere else.

Thanks Rick and fj80psi. I will vent the BOV and PCV to atmosphere

Finished the heat shielding for the downpipe, the manifold shield, new plugs, tbody back on. A few new hoses

I am impressed with the thickness off this manifold flange but am a little bummed as the studs are now too short to grab a good bite of the oe lock nut. There is basically no lock to the nut at the flange. I made the bolts hell of tight

note that if you use this manifold you will need a few of the smaller diameter shouldered nuts that are used for the exhaust in other places

 

[Dusty]

manifold shield

 

[fj80psi]

I like the manifold & DP shielding. Now might be a good time to install longer exhaust manifold studs so it doesn't haunt you later. I think Napa carries them?? Can't remember. You could remove one of them & take it for a sample.

 

[Dusty]

I like the manifold & DP shielding. Now might be a good time to install longer exhaust manifold studs so it doesn't haunt you later. I think Napa carries them?? Can't remember. You could remove one of them & take it for a sample.

You are right. Ill get on it.

 

[Dusty]

Cant find metric studs 10x1.25 by 55-70mm. not at:
summit
napa
several hardware stores and auto stores

10x1.5 are plentifull

any help?

The oe piece has 44mm of thread by the way

 

[landtank]

from what I can tell you are stuck with what you have. 10x1.25 seems to be a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standards) size and everything we get over here is European standard.

The only way to make it right is to mill the flange.

 

[Moby]

I'm not arguing about this as there are some significant differences between the AUS computer equipment and the AUS emissions equipment, but we have had several people run right up to 12 psi with the safari turbo system with no detonation problems and no knocking problems with premium fuel and without any decompression plates. I'm giving a guess that AUS computers are 8bit and ours are 16bit (possibly to account for all the OBD-II stuff), its just a good guess but something is significantly different over there, if it isn't really processing power it is the fact that all the extra emissions equipment, the OBD-II stuff or something is making our computers much more flexible for forced induction. Again, I'm not arguing, so dont start on me Darren. HTH.

Does the 1FZ not have a knock sensor? If not and you want a back up in case you do get into detonation get a J&S Safeguard. I just installed one. Not cheap but nice peace of mind. Easy install too.

 

[Dusty]

from what I can tell you are stuck with what you have. 10x1.25 seems to be a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standards) size and everything we get over here is European standard.

The only way to make it right is to mill the flange.

You are right
I spoke on the phone with mcmaster-there is nothing close. just allthread
even downloaded the arp catalog-nothing

Milling the flange causes 2 real issues. 1st I would need to take off 3/16 to get a full bite on the locking part of the nut which would be ok as the flange is so thick. 2nd is the downpipe will need some refab to make fit.

The threads are long enough that they bind the nut (which is thick threaded) well in the threaded part but just barely seat themselves in the locking part. There is enough thread to hold secure but not enough to ensure a lock. Most chevy headers are held on with plain old nuts-I am considering accepting the risk....

 

[landtank]

maybe contact MOT and see if he can source what you need.

 

[turbocruiser]

You are right
I spoke on the phone with mcmaster-there is nothing close. just allthread
even downloaded the arp catalog-nothing

Milling the flange causes 2 real issues. 1st I would need to take off 3/16 to get a full bite on the locking part of the nut which would be ok as the flange is so thick. 2nd is the downpipe will need some refab to make fit.

The threads are long enough that they bind the nut (which is thick threaded) well in the threaded part but just barely seat themselves in the locking part. There is enough thread to hold secure but not enough to ensure a lock. Most chevy headers are held on with plain old nuts-I am considering accepting the risk....

Dusty, just a stupid suggestion but how bout a spot weld right at the end of each stud? It will surely keep stuff put and you can hit it with a grinder to leave the stud in place for future removals or you can back the stud and the nut out as another method? Any drawbacks to doing that in this application?

 

[Photoman]

I ran into this problem when I needed a 10 X 1.25 bolt for making hinges for the drivers side seat (see picture). I came up with this idea and it may help you. Buy a longer partially threaded 10 X 1.50 bolt (cap screw), cut the 1.5 threads off, and use a 1.25 die to to run some threads. The shank is the correct 10 MM size. Since you mentioned McMaster, page 3073 has grade 10.9 bolts and part # 95327A652 should be plenty long enough to make a stud.

Bill

 

[landtank]

From the above picture I think the first thing to do is fly to Charlton MA and bitch slap MsgGrunt.

Next, and remember this is from a very anal retentive individual, yank the manifold and fix it. This sort of renegade build practice can only lead to a lot of misery at the most inopportune time.

 

[Dusty]

Dusty, just a stupid suggestion but how bout a spot weld right at the end of each stud? It will surely keep stuff put and you can hit it with a grinder to leave the stud in place for future removals or you can back the stud and the nut out as another method? Any drawbacks to doing that in this application?

Too sloppy. If it was my old bronco id just weld the manifold to the block but not the 1fzfe...

I ran into this problem when I needed a 10 X 1.25 bolt for making hinges for the drivers side seat (see picture). I came up with this idea and it may help you. Buy a longer partially threaded 10 X 1.50 bolt (cap screw), cut the 1.5 threads off, and use a 1.25 die to to run some threads. The shank is the correct 10 MM size. Since you mentioned McMaster, page 3073 has grade 10.9 bolts and part # 95327A652 should be plenty long enough to make a stud.

Bill

Bill I don't have your patience. I'd be killing people by the 3rd bolt

From the above picture I think the first thing to do is fly to Charlton MA and bitch slap MsgGrunt.

Next, and remember this is from a very anal retentive individual, yank the manifold and fix it. This sort of renegade build practice can only lead to a lot of misery at the most inopportune time.

Haaaa
Yea MsgGrunt what the hell you trying to pull? Why you leading me on like that? I hope your header falls off and your new turbo goes bouncin down the tarmac. But if Grunt's turbo is still attached then it must be ok to cut this corner?

(And talking onesself into further false securities....)
You know that metal header gasket is real solid and probably doesn't thin with time....

and there are so many bolts holding it up there...

and as the header heats up the bolts will be exposed to more shear and probably get tighter....

I don't know what im going to do. I want to finish this so bad..

 

[concretejungle]

can you not mill out....or drill out just around the hole where the bolt passes through the manifold? The nut would be recessed a bit, but you can drill it out enough to get a socket around it. No?

 

[Cattledog]

Dusty,

Bite the bullet and buy the bolts that photoman suggested. Take them to a machine shop and have them cut and rethreaded. Should be cheap overall and you won't be wondering about the nuts later.

 

[Dusty]

too late. bolted the turbo on top. a hundred miles into the testing I will loosen the manifold heat shield and test my nuts for tightness. The top nuts are easy to access. I will need to remove the filter box and some ducting to get the dificult lower bolts but I can test the the lower bolts toward the radiator fairly easily. Life goes on

I decided to duct the compressor outlet up and over the airbox instead of down as discussed earlier. Down is very doable but will require a 90' elbow and I am trying to avoid abrupt corners like that as I hate to slow charge down with undue reisitance. If others have sourced this same manifold you can clock the compressor outlet down without a 90' but in my case the AC line I had custom made sits right in the way of the compressor outlet and makes the 90' elbow essential. If you have your ac line made a little longer so it can droop lower you wont have a problem routing your compressor charge down toward the frame rail

 

[Dusty]

ducting is all figured out and tacked. need to weld a few joints. For those building turbos this is the way to duct it using factory air filter. Easy. I have the ducting in such a way that I can remove the filter without disconnecting the ducting. Now there is all that room in front of the airbox for a battery, the oe windshild wiper reservoir, methanol, or whatever

Questions
this is the bosch BOV i got on ebay, unlike grunts it has an electric plug on it. What is the plug for and how much booste engages it? Scott this is your chance to shine

last pic is of a cheap ebay catch can I will use for the pressure side of the valve cover (from cover to intake manifold). I am planning to run the larger 1/2 nipple on the pass side of the valve cover to simple filter instead of a catch can. I am planning to run a hose from the valve cover to a small filter inside the drivers side fender so that when the valve cover is venting under boost I can minimize fumes under the hood. Do away with a catch can on the boosted side which catches little oil anyway