Nice to see the manifold bolted up. I look forward to hearing about running at 10 psi. BTW, buy landtank's MAF housing for you turbo system.
turbo build
- Thread starter Dusty
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- #182
wow good price. I dont know if I want one or not. Im kinda hoping the testing done by turbocruiser justifies the jump. I did get an o2 sensor bung to weld in for when I take it to the dyno for testing. I would like to see what she does on the dyno and do the testing there. If she can handle the session without going lean I will be happy and no worries. many here are concerned with effecient power (ie optimal a/f ratios). This involves lots of thinking and tweaking and I appreciate the work of others. But Im not up to the task right now. I just want the power
If landtanks MAF turns out to be a winner then I will get one. someone needs to post convincing a/f data at 10psi with and w/o the new MAF. Even better would be a dyno run
I'm not sure how you are determining a winner. I personally think that it's 1 piece of the puzzle. It's helped a great deal on both SC'd and turbo trucks with an incredibly rich situation, it's just not the whole solution. And everyone has seen a performance increase, let's face it, it breaths better.
If seeing 10 psi results is going to be your criteria, you probably are going to have to be the one to deliver it.
- Thread starter
- #184
I suspect you are correct
- Thread starter
- #185
getting closer
figured out the factory airbox. leave it in its place. I will be removing 1/4" from the airbox outlet (flange that normally bolts to MAF). this makes for a round 3.5" OD tube to which I use a 3.5" silicone 90'.
to this I attach a 3.5" to 3" transition 90' silicone elbow
The 3" side slides over the MAF inlet. the exit of the MAF is 3.250" so I use a 3.250" to 4" coupler to attach to the turbo compressor inlet.
now the compressor outlet will not hit the airbox if you use a slight turn to the firewall but then you need to take the charge pipe toward the pass fender and over the airbox which will make it difficult to change/check the filter. An easier fix is to clock the turbine outlet 15' from strait down (slightly turned to pass side fender) from there its an easy route to the pass headlight and out to intercooler.
the problem with my airbox is that with current air intake routing I will need to vent the BOV to atmosphere which is not ideal. this is due to my MAF placement right into the compressor inlet
Note the wideband LM1 (thanks rick)
note silicone hose for the turbo drain (braided line burned up)
figured out the factory airbox. leave it in its place. I will be removing 1/4" from the airbox outlet (flange that normally bolts to MAF). this makes for a round 3.5" OD tube to which I use a 3.5" silicone 90'.
to this I attach a 3.5" to 3" transition 90' silicone elbow
The 3" side slides over the MAF inlet. the exit of the MAF is 3.250" so I use a 3.250" to 4" coupler to attach to the turbo compressor inlet.
now the compressor outlet will not hit the airbox if you use a slight turn to the firewall but then you need to take the charge pipe toward the pass fender and over the airbox which will make it difficult to change/check the filter. An easier fix is to clock the turbine outlet 15' from strait down (slightly turned to pass side fender) from there its an easy route to the pass headlight and out to intercooler.
the problem with my airbox is that with current air intake routing I will need to vent the BOV to atmosphere which is not ideal. this is due to my MAF placement right into the compressor inlet
Note the wideband LM1 (thanks rick)
note silicone hose for the turbo drain (braided line burned up)
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- Thread starter
- #186
downpipe was more work than anticipated. needed to make a 2 piece downpipe. no more stinky slip joint for the wastegate. now have the braided flexy stuff. am making an aluminum heat shield for it to minimize the need for turbo wrap. I detest the stuff now. real metal is better and cleaner.
just need to bolt it all up
just need to bolt it all up
Looks like a tight fit Dusty. You could always try the blow through MAF. It would work fine with the BOV to atmosphere & would be easy to try since you have the WB o2. Mine is working great. Just finished a Turbo Tundra last night with blow through. It was great. It had the same problems as our cruisers. Pig rich under boost, Took out timing & fuel on the top with the new Unichip which was a huge improvement.
When do you project completion?
-Andy
When do you project completion?
-Andy
Dusty, could you put the MAF between the two 90*s and then just rotate the cover a little to to compensate for the added width? That way to could put a small metal section where the MAF is now and plumb in the PVC vent and BOV there.
didnt read the whole thread, but saw head was off, if it has had any sort of clean up on the face it will need a slight de compression to stop detonation with 10 psi boost, even on premium.
I'm not arguing about this as there are some significant differences between the AUS computer equipment and the AUS emissions equipment, but we have had several people run right up to 12 psi with the safari turbo system with no detonation problems and no knocking problems with premium fuel and without any decompression plates. I'm giving a guess that AUS computers are 8bit and ours are 16bit (possibly to account for all the OBD-II stuff), its just a good guess but something is significantly different over there, if it isn't really processing power it is the fact that all the extra emissions equipment, the OBD-II stuff or something is making our computers much more flexible for forced induction. Again, I'm not arguing, so dont start on me Darren.
HTH.
I'm not arguing about this as there are some significant differences between the AUS computer equipment and the AUS emissions equipment, but we have had several people run right up to 12 psi with the safari turbo system with no detonation problems and no knocking problems with premium fuel and without any decompression plates. I'm giving a guess that AUS computers are 8bit and ours are 16bit (possibly to account for all the OBD-II stuff), its just a good guess but something is significantly different over there, if it isn't really processing power it is the fact that all the extra emissions equipment, the OBD-II stuff or something is making our computers much more flexible for forced induction. Again, I'm not arguing, so dont start on me Darren.
I'm not sure what the difference is either but I'm at the point where I pretty much ignore all advice given based on experience with other vehicles. There is something very different going on here and I don't think making broad assumptions is the way to proceed.
- Thread starter
- #192
I need 1 full day to get it done. This is my first year out of residency in a new practice and am a sick slave to my job right now. Anybody around fresno want to do some wrenching? Im more carefull with this build as i am expecting more from her when done.Looks like a tight fit Dusty. You could always try the blow through MAF. It would work fine with the BOV to atmosphere & would be easy to try since you have the WB o2. Mine is working great. Just finished a Turbo Tundra last night with blow through. It was great. It had the same problems as our cruisers. Pig rich under boost, Took out timing & fuel on the top with the new Unichip which was a huge improvement.
When do you project completion?
I already modeled this. The problem is that if I turn the filter outlet anymore forward and especially anymore to the pass fender the hood will hit it. I need to keep the filter outlet as far to the drivers side as possible. The other option is to relocate the filter box but this is a fabrication project that involves lots of cutting and welding and could easily take half a day. I modeled this also and by doing so I would probably lose the tuna can. I want this truck fastaer but I also want her more reliable and durable. You guys should see how dirty my cone filter is after 1 day wheeling in utah. It just collects dirt. I cant immagine going 20 miles on a dirt road or in a baja situation with it
we will see. If that be the case I will run race fuel. And if Im going to do that might as well run nitrous. and if going to do that might as well run larger injectors and rebuild the bottom end and........
That kind of stinks. I'm going to source a Turbo diesel filter cover as it turns down immediately over the edge of the canister. I figured worse case I'd have it facing forward and utilize that spot where people put a second battery for some of the plumbing.
Oh well
- Thread starter
- #194
Looks like a tight fit Dusty. You could always try the blow through MAF.
I have thought about this. The air would be hotter if placed pre intercooler-may result in a leaner condition? could be a good thing
- Thread starter
- #195
this would be perfect and solve all the problems
The only thing that makes me weary of a blow through is that some PVC gases are going to pass through there. A certain death to the MAF sensor.
I think the hotter air will only effect FT% and not the overall AFR.
- Thread starter
- #197
The PCV gass issue is another problem. I want the crank to see a vacume under boost. Intake pre compressor offers a very little vacume but with this oe arbox setup I will have none as I will not put the pcv to pre MAF. I may just vent to atmosphere when under booste. I am even considering a boost activated switch to control a vacume pump.
My valve cover sparkplug seals blew out at about 5000 miles after I installed the turbo the first time around
You might consider a check valve on the PVC line to the manifold. It's possible that some boost is getting past the PVC valve and entering the block pressurizing it.
This would also create a richer condition do to the air loss.
- Thread starter
- #199
Good point. I do have a pcv valve at the maifold within the hose going from the intake manifold to valve cover. When the manifold is under boost this valve is supposed to close and the valve cover is suppsed to then vent to pre turbo per the 2nd hose comming off the valve cover. I would love for the valve cover to see a vacume when boosting. I think a used electric brake booster would be good.
There was another thread on a similar subject a while back. That second vent line is 3/8" in diameter. That hose can pass a lot of air. I have a hard time believing that there is enough blow by in the engine to overwhelm that hose's ability to vent it to a point where you pressurize the block and blows out seals. I'm thinking the Stock PVC valve isn't stopping boosted air form entering the block.
