Turbo Boost & Crank Up the Fuel! (1 Viewer)

[skoki]

If you haven't done this mod yet...do it!! I can't believe the difference in performance! Feels like I've gained 40 H.P. Hills that had me hunting between 3rd & 4th gear I now fly up in 5th! It's unbelievable. And my mileage has increased by about 3%. A lot less throttle to do the same amount of work.

The Isspro gauge cost me $235, the Gauge cup $35, a local machine shop drilled and tapped my manifold for free, the boost fixtures cost me $2 and the Hallman boost controller cost me $65.

The Downside:
1) I got my first speeding ticket in 7 years
2) I want a 6sp transmission.

P.S. Note the mileage, 516000 kilometres

 

[torqueluvr]

Way to go! This is next on my list for my 13BT. Hoping to get the same results. Do you have a pyrometer installed? I heard its dangerous not to do the latter because your exhaust temps can get really high.

 

[skoki]

Isspro Turbocator. Beautiful gauge. 3" face, premium quality. Absolutely you have to have a pyrometer. I couldn't believe how fast and extreme the temperatures would increase. Flat ground no load caused the highest temps in a nanosecond. Do not do this mod without a good gauge. I've dialed in my fuel so that it'll only get to max temps if I'm really pushing it. Originally I had the gauge mounted below the dash but I remounted it on the A pillar so I could keep a closer eye on it. 15 lbs of boost.

 

[Dougal]

Great gauge you've got there, but I see it's only imperial. Does anyone do a combo gauge in metric?

I see Westach do other style combo gauges, but again only imperial:
Westach

 

[skoki]

I couldn't find one in metric and I did a pretty thorough search. But I'm really impressed with the Isspro.

 

[IanB]

Isspro Turbocator. Beautiful gauge. 3" face, premium quality. Absolutely you have to have a pyrometer. I couldn't believe how fast and extreme the temperatures would increase. Flat ground no load caused the highest temps in a nanosecond. Do not do this mod without a good gauge. I've dialed in my fuel so that it'll only get to max temps if I'm really pushing it. Originally I had the gauge mounted below the dash but I remounted it on the A pillar so I could keep a closer eye on it. 15 lbs of boost.

So did you monitor the EGT's with the gauge before you turned up the boost? What range were you seeing before vs. after the pressure increase?

 

[Dieseler]

When I first started reading this I thought you where talking about a 3B and then realized you were talking about a 12HT the part that confussed me was your mention of searching for gears this is something I have never had an issue with my 61 even on the steep climbs of the Coq I guess that mileage has an effect on the natural performance of the 12ht thats the most mileage I have heard about for one of these engines usually they are between 200k-300k

 

[chet]

I can't wait to turn mine up. with 255k on it I can barely go up the malahat in 5th. could be the 33" swampers too. Raddcruisers is bringing me in a madman gauge that will do both boost and egt and other stuff as well. and its 24v! Can't wait

 

[Tapage]

that gauge sounds expensive to me .. I just can't imagine hoy much fun should be hace one 12H-T to play !

 

[skoki]

1) EGT's maxed out around 900*F vs 1200*F now
2) Dieseler, you mean there's not a hill around that you can't take in 5th gear!!! Wow, you must have got the special engine. Seriously though this engine is a transplant w/ about 300,000 k on it now.
3) Tapage the gauge, kit and mounting cup list at $375 U.S. I got them delivered from DSG in Saskatoon for $270. Canadian.
With the miles I put on and the price of diesel now it'll pay for itself in less than 2 years.

 

[gbentink]

It makes a big difference for sure!! I think everyone with a 12HT should do it.

Fit one of my high flow CT26's and get a similar smile - 16psi from 1600rpm without changing anything else from what you have now.

But be warned of piston problems in the 12HT (also the 2H). The top ring land floggs out and the pistons need replacing before part of the top ring on the first piston to tries to exit out of the exhaust valve - and fails!

Happens between 400 and 550km in my experience and can mean the bores get damaged beyond reboringing (1mm OS). Dropping the sump, a quick hone in situ and a new set of pistons and rings is cheap compared to removing the whole engine. having said that though, I have heard stories of water in oil on these old engines due to corroded welch plugs that sit INSIDE the engine. There are some behind the cam follwer covers and some in the head. They are definately worth replacing.

 

[Hulsty]

There are ways to reduce that issue though, my 13BT was rebuilt with "alfin" pistons which have steel inserted ring lands. Dont know how well they work at reducing the problem though, 40,000km and still going strong.

 

[torqueluvr]

any 'bewares' to be told about doing this mod on a 13BT? Mid may I plan to do pyrometer, boost guage and boost controller. What kind of change in power should I feel? I have a 2000 TDI and I can hear the turbo spool and do its magic, but in my 13BT I can't A: feel the boost kick in, or B: hear it. My green light does turn on, so the turbo seems to be working. I recently removed the manifold and turbo and the turbo fans were in great shape and moved freely. All gaskets are in place with no exhaust leaks. I don't think its really spooling at all because I can't feel the difference. Hoping after the mod I can "use" the turbo more.

Tanner

 

[Dieseler]

Most of the Coq I can do in 5th and use 4th on the steeper long climbs but I have never found I had to drop to 3rd or shift up and down the gears and I have 35s.... now my 41, 42 ,and 44 are a different story those I am constantly shifting to find the right gear and go as low as 2nd at times... especially between 50kph and 60kph 3rds to low and 4th to high.

 

[Hulsty]

any 'bewares' to be told about doing this mod on a 13BT? Mid may I plan to do pyrometer, boost guage and boost controller. What kind of change in power should I feel? I have a 2000 TDI and I can hear the turbo spool and do its magic, but in my 13BT I can't A: feel the boost kick in, or B: hear it. My green light does turn on, so the turbo seems to be working. I recently removed the manifold and turbo and the turbo fans were in great shape and moved freely. All gaskets are in place with no exhaust leaks. I don't think its really spooling at all because I can't feel the difference. Hoping after the mod I can "use" the turbo more.

Tanner

Fit a free flowing exhaust to the 13BT, it will spool up much quicker, I can hear mine from 1psi. The green light indicates the turbo is making boost. Fitting a 3'' system, dump pipe and adjusting the boost and fuel will make a very large difference to how the car drives.

 

[torqueluvr]

Hulsty thanks for the info. On a budget right now, and the PO put a new exhuast system last year, but stock. Was thinking of cutting out the muffler for more flow? Then I'll do the pyro and boost uppage.

 

[gbentink]

There are ways to reduce that issue though, my 13BT was rebuilt with "alfin" pistons which have steel inserted ring lands. Dont know how well they work at reducing the problem though, 40,000km and still going strong.

Actually I forgot to mention that solution even though I meant too. Yes it solves it completely, no problem at all afterwards. I used to think the problem was isolated to 12HT's (because I have never been too interested in IDI), but later when pulling down a high mileage 2H I saw the problem was just as bad.

For those who dont know, the "Alfin" insert is a cast in steel ring land for the top ring. Interestingly, the second ring on the OPEM pistons, despite the first ring being none existant compression wise, does not suffer any issues at all, thus it must be almost exclusively temperature related (crown being hotter). Bad metallurgy,

 

[Hulsty]

Hulsty thanks for the info. On a budget right now, and the PO put a new exhuast system last year, but stock. Was thinking of cutting out the muffler for more flow? Then I'll do the pyro and boost uppage.

I had a stock system for awhile, I removed the muffler, made more noise and that was about all. Moving to a 3'' system and no other mods had me reaching 15psi ~400rpm earlier.

 

[Hulsty]

Actually I forgot to mention that solution even though I meant too. Yes it solves it completely, no problem at all afterwards. I used to think the problem was isolated to 12HT's (because I have never been too interested in IDI), but later when pulling down a high mileage 2H I saw the problem was just as bad.

For those who dont know, the "Alfin" insert is a cast in steel ring land for the top ring. Interestingly, the second ring on the OPEM pistons, despite the first ring being none existant compression wise, does not suffer any issues at all, thus it must be almost exclusively temperature related (crown being hotter). Bad metallurgy,

If it was bad metallurgy why would they go to the effort of a steel insert? Wouldnt it be easier/cheaper to use better metallurgy for a better piston, or is the issue more design related? Top rings to close to the crown maybe due to the compression height of the piston.

Do other diesels suffer this? ie TD42 and 1HD series?