Quick post for anyone who needs to do this. My 2016 Tundra tensioner pully has been making noise. A lot worse when it's cold out. After about 4 months on backorder I finally got a new tensioner pully a few weeks ago. It's a DAYCO brand direct from Toyota dealership in Toyota box. Also replaced belt with new Toyota part.
I'm currently living in Alaska. It's cold. It's snowy. I didn't want to lay under my truck in the wet cold water in my garage and didn't have a chance to let it warm up overnight and dry out. I also have a front hitch that partially blocks the skid plate removal so it's a bit more effort to remove the front skid and work from the bottom. So I did the swap from the top. It's easy enough that I would probably do it that way anyway even if it wasn't wet.
The tip here - remove the fan. It's 4 nuts. Took about 2 minutes to pull off and you don't need to actually pull the fan out of the fan shroud. Just remove from the water pump and set it down inside the shroud at the bottom gently against the radiator. That's all it takes. Then you can easily access the tensioner to remove and replace. You can also easily access the full belt system to put the new belt on. I think the entire swap took about 45 minutes.
Tools you need are a 6mm allen key and a 12mm socket for the two bolts that hold the tensioner on, a 12mm open end wrench and a screw driver (to use to keep from spinning) for the fan removal, and IIRC a 14mm socket for the belt tensioner tension release.
Side note - I noticed when I had the fan off that my water pump seal is seeping. I've been noticing what looks like oil leak on the front of the engine, but I couldn't figure out where it was originating. It's slow and slight, but it's the dust accumulation that you can see and it looked like maybe a cam tower leak but it sure looked like it originated higher up in the middle. Didn't make sense. Well - it's the slow seep from the water pump seal. I guess I'll plan on replacing a water pump in spring.
Not quite as reliable as my past Japanese built Toyotas.
I'm currently living in Alaska. It's cold. It's snowy. I didn't want to lay under my truck in the wet cold water in my garage and didn't have a chance to let it warm up overnight and dry out. I also have a front hitch that partially blocks the skid plate removal so it's a bit more effort to remove the front skid and work from the bottom. So I did the swap from the top. It's easy enough that I would probably do it that way anyway even if it wasn't wet.
The tip here - remove the fan. It's 4 nuts. Took about 2 minutes to pull off and you don't need to actually pull the fan out of the fan shroud. Just remove from the water pump and set it down inside the shroud at the bottom gently against the radiator. That's all it takes. Then you can easily access the tensioner to remove and replace. You can also easily access the full belt system to put the new belt on. I think the entire swap took about 45 minutes.
Tools you need are a 6mm allen key and a 12mm socket for the two bolts that hold the tensioner on, a 12mm open end wrench and a screw driver (to use to keep from spinning) for the fan removal, and IIRC a 14mm socket for the belt tensioner tension release.
Side note - I noticed when I had the fan off that my water pump seal is seeping. I've been noticing what looks like oil leak on the front of the engine, but I couldn't figure out where it was originating. It's slow and slight, but it's the dust accumulation that you can see and it looked like maybe a cam tower leak but it sure looked like it originated higher up in the middle. Didn't make sense. Well - it's the slow seep from the water pump seal. I guess I'll plan on replacing a water pump in spring.
Not quite as reliable as my past Japanese built Toyotas.
