Tundra axles into a 200?

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May 11, 2016
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Location
Austin, TX
Hey my fellow 200 peeps!

Just wanted to see what your thoughts were about this:

I mean what's not to like:
10.5 axles
4.30 gear ratio
Heavy duty
Can find plenty in junk yards. I live in Austin so im sure they are plenty of totaled Tundras from Harvey....I would hope the axles are sealed tight to be waterproof?

Has anyone done or considered this?

Tried searching before I posted this but all post talk about how much better the 10.5 is and it's outdated info too.
 
The LC uses an offset diff rear axle. No clue how this plays into it?
 
Edited for corrections from bjowett

For the center, 9.5 to 10.5, yes bigger is better. But in Australia and the armored 200 builders have proven the 9.5 isn't the weak point, its still the housing. My theory is Toyota put a 10.5 in the tundra because it is an American truck. And in America, bigger is better, regardless of it is or not, because buyers can't think very deeply about it. The silverado had a 10.25 rear end, well... Tundra's is bigger, so ha. Same with the front disk brake size, make it bigger to be better.

Then as far as off road, if the 9.5 is proven to be super strong, then I sure wouldn't want to loose another 1/2" of ground clearance for no reason.

The ratio isn't than great for a 2008-2015, 4.30 will compensate for large sizes, but not for the aerodynamic loss that comes with winch bumpers, more ground clearance, and root racks. In the 2016+, 4.30 is like having the same ratio's as a 2008-2015 with 4.88s, so that might work.

What else, umm... The tundra has leaf spring perches that will need to be cut off, and coil 5 link perches will need to be welded on. There is more cost there

So that's why no one does it, It would be a reduction in capability, and with the cursing and welding, if you had to pay someone, it wouldn't much different of cost to just buy the new gear you want.

Side note, @TeCKis300, the rear diff is not offset, the 200 series is the first LC to use have its rear differential centered, the axle shafts are exactly the same length. The other series have the pinion centered (but that means its an offset diff), that makes those older series axles shafts different lengths.
 
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If you need an axle that can really take a heavy throttle beating, then consider building a 10.5". The 9.5 is no slouch, though, and had several significant upgrades over the years. Both housings are fabricated, but more is put into the 9.5" unit.
 
Ahhh I see. Figured the oem 4.30 ratio would be transferable to the LC200 3.90 but then the 10.5 would be a size difference.

I know that the biggest difference for tundra competitively against other brands is the 10.5 is standard on 5.7 v8 while the other brands you must upgrade or get top of the line for towing to get that big.

People transfer the transfer case of our lc200 to tundra but can't for the axle... But I shouldve known better since most of the veterans here such as @bjowett has already done tons of testing.

Wouldve been nice if the sizes were the same to the tune of a third member swap to get 4.30 gears though.... Haha.

Thanks for the input guys.
 
@Taco2Cruiser , Excellent post. I stand correctly and learned something today!

Curious on the 10.5" with the tundra. I wonder if it's not also because the LC is full time 4WD, vs tundra having part time 4WD when optioned? So in a high load towing scenarios, will see more heat in the tundra 10.5" vs shared axle loads of the LC full time 4WD?

I also like your point about the 9.5" having more off-road clearance. That's a big deal with it being the lowest point.
 
@Taco2Cruiser , Excellent post. I stand correctly and learned something today!

Curious on the 10.5" with the tundra. I wonder if it's not also because the LC is full time 4WD, vs tundra having part time 4WD when optioned? So in a high load towing scenarios, will see more heat in the tundra 10.5" vs shared axle loads of the LC full time 4WD?

I also like your point about the 9.5" having more off-road clearance. That's a big deal with it being the lowest point.
The two wheel drive towing comment you said makes a lot of sense, I didn’t think about that. That would be a lot of stress just for one axle to take. Im sure a smaller axle could do it, but it is Toyota, and they have a reputation to uphold. Plus with the tundra not being focused on off-roading, then ground clearance isn’t as much of an issue as it is on the 200.
 
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The 10.5 is not hydroformed, the source of that information is incorrect. It is stamped and fabricated just like the 200 rear axle. The taper from the center section out into the tubes is much larger on the 200. The 80 and 100 Series axle were gusseted in a similar fashion. This is likely required by the coil spring 4link set-up. The 10.5" axle has been around since the 1970's... there are some crazy HD versions of it... massive full floating housings and 4 pin centers with gear ratios up into the 6:1 range. Pinion diameter, bearings, and axle shafts, as well as the gear diameter, are significantly larger over the 9.5. Clearance and unsprung weight are two downsides.
 
The 10.5 is not hydroformed, the source of that information is incorrect. It is stamped and fabricated just like the 200 rear axle. The taper from the center section out into the tubes is much larger on the 200. The 80 and 100 Series axle were gusseted in a similar fashion. This is likely required by the coil spring 4link set-up. The 10.5" axle has been around since the 1970's... there are some crazy HD versions of it... massive full floating housings and 4 pin centers with gear ratios up into the 6:1 range. Pinion diameter, bearings, and axle shafts, as well as the gear diameter, are significantly larger over the 9.5. Clearance and unsprung weight are two downsides.
Very cool, I also stand corrected then. Love this forum, this stuff is just so interesting.

So why does the LC200 use square tubes where the tundra uses round tubes?

And did they change how they make the 10.5 during the second gen tundra years? I remember pulling the 3rd memeber on a 10.5 and the thickness of the center section was nothing that impressive. Was that just something different in from ‘07 or are they all like that?
 
They both have square sections that lead into round tube. The 200 has more square section than the Tundra.... and the square section is a larger, much more so as it tapers from the center, and only a bit as it transitions to the outer round. The thickness on the Tundra is around .21 - .23"... the 200 is similar.

I'm not aware of a change, but I'll take a look under a new one next chance.

I little doubt that we'll be building 10.5" axles for some crazy 200 builds in the not to distant future.
 
I little doubt that we'll be building 10.5" axles for some crazy 200 builds in the not to distant future.

Diamond Axle can now make full floater, 5 lug, ABS compatible, 9.5 and 10.5 centers. :hmm:
 
From what I've read, Diamond makes great products. I prefer moddified stock housings, if they are suitable. Going FF and keeping abs is definetly doable with the newer sensor types. The Tundra uses the same bearing/sensor as the 200, so place that on the list if positives.
 
Responding to an older post here.. is the 200 AWD in all markets or were there part-time versions out there?
 
I've been thinking about this axle a lot for a future project, so I picked one up. I got it really cheap so if I don't use it, I can just sell it.

@White Stripe , here is a pic of the splines. My caliper battery died but I was able to feel that the splines are probably .001" smaller than the main shaft:
tundra axle.jpeg


tundra axle tube -.jpeg

tundra axle tube.jpeg

The tube does go from square to round and it stays round for a bit. I'll have to measure but it looks like it maintains the same diameter for several inches.
 
I've been thinking about this axle a lot for a future project, so I picked one up. I got it really cheap so if I don't use it, I can just sell it.

@White Stripe , here is a pic of the splines. My caliper battery died but I was able to feel that the splines are probably .001" smaller than the main shaft:
View attachment 3123957

View attachment 3123958
View attachment 3123959
The tube does go from square to round and it stays round for a bit. I'll have to measure but it looks like it maintains the same diameter for several inches.
Curious what the diameter measures out as. It necks down after the wheel bearing, then necks down more before the splines right?
 
Curious what the diameter measures out as. It necks down after the wheel bearing, then necks down more before the splines right?
I'll get a battery in my caliper and measure. But yes, there is a taper just inboard of the bearing and then the neck down you see in the photo. However, the OD on the splines is extremely close to the OD on the main part of the shaft. I haven't pulled the diff out yet but I can't see the point of the minor OD in between the main shaft and the splines.
 

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