gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Sorry drugged up today on cold medicine, brain no function properly...
LOL.... Feeler gauges that is what I was going for...
truck will not idle and bucks under half throttle under 2000 rpm.
- Thread starter mongoose2231
- Start date
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Sorry drugged up today on cold medicine, brain no function properly...
LOL.... Feeler gauges that is what I was going for...
- Thread starter
- #42
I just replced the gasket with toyota part. Since the problem didnt go away I assume the manifolds will need resurfacing. I will do that next. I hope that will fix the problem cause I cannot find anything else wrong qith the truck.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Before you disassemble again spray some carb cleaner around the intake manifold while you have the truck running (around where it mates to the block) and see if the idle changes and/or the sound goes away.
- Thread starter
- #44
I will definitely do that prior to disassembly again. This way I make sure tgat thats the problem.
Have you checked for a plugged EGR valve? I had a similar problem with my rig not wanting to idle - turned out that it was a plugged EGR/EGR filter.
- Thread starter
- #46
Yeah, thats also something id havw to check as well. I thought I narrowed it down but it looks like I have a checklist of things to go through.
- Thread starter
- #47
I was quoted by local shop around 100 and up depending on how much work is needed. They did know about the two manifolds remaining bolted together. I have to dismantle it again and make another attempt at fixing the old truck. will keep everyone posted.
Anything ever come of this? My 60 is exhibiting similar issues all of a sudden. Not sure where to start!
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/705086-real-time-help-truck-stalling.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/705086-real-time-help-truck-stalling.html
- Thread starter
- #49
Ok fellas, last sunday I dissasmbled everything again. This time took the manifolds off the engine and they are severely warped. The problem is at the front of the motor. There is some metal buildup on the exhaust piece i n that vicinity not allowing the intake side to properly seal. I can actually hear the hissing. Still not taken it to the shop. This weekend I will. Also took the oilpan out to repl ace the badly le aking cemented gasket. Also have brand new gaskets for all other exhaust components. Po used silicone to resolve leaky exhaust. I hope to have it back togetger by next the weekend after this one coming up. Will let everyone know of the results.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Glad that you were able to figure it out! Hopefully once you get the manifold machined that will resolve your problems.
- Thread starter
- #51
yes, i cannot wait to get it all together to see if it runs any better. Besides holding an idle, it should also run much smoother since i also did all the vacuum lines, plus i am also replacing the oil pan gasket which was leaking horridly. So in the end i will have fixed a bunch of issue while trying to nail one of them. Will post as soon as its all done.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Good...welcome to the "while I'm in there" type jobs!
- Thread starter
- #53
oh yeah, next is cleaning interior, washing carpet and then tackling rust. at least it will be 100% mechanically. It just had a new clutch put in and, oh crap i gotta rebuild the front axle. oh well, might as well.
- Thread starter
- #54
some pictures of the manifold and the bottom end. took them at night with phone so bad quality.
- Thread starter
- #55
some of the copmponents trequire major cleaning
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Looking good dude. I am going to have to get on that stuff this summer.. How hard was it to get the oil pan off? I have heard it can be a PITA.
- Thread starter
- #57
actually it was a pita. i did post on the one thread i found about the oil pan removal. if you look at the picture of the bottom you can see a hole in the block which exposes the lip of the pan from above. the trucks own bottle jack mounted between pan and frame rail wouldn't budge it. it was cemented in place. i inserted a rod from above through that hole and banged it a couple times till i felt the pan come loose. then i used a flat crowbar to wedge it in and worked my way down. It is a pain in the ass but the worst part was removing the cork. it took me about 2 to 3 hours because it was like concrete on the block. didn't have sealing properties anymore. Now i am hoping to install the pan back this weekend and to drop off the manifolds at the shop. i got so infatuated and obsessed with the stupid manifolds that today i modeled a set in cad just because.
- Thread starter
- #58
as of friday the manifolds are in the shop. they say they'll be done sometime this week. i hope it will not take forever. now, does anyone know where one can purchase rust bullet inhibitor except for online? i cannot seem to find it anywhere at the local hardware stores. Would a tractor supply carry that?
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Damn dude that is some serious skill with CAD!! I have dabbled a bit in Google Sketchup but that is insane!
How much did they quote you for machining the manifolds? Think this might be one of the things to add to my "work" agenda on BeBe for this summer.
And any particular reason you want Rust Bullet? I would check their website and see if there is a physical location where they sell it near you.
How much did they quote you for machining the manifolds? Think this might be one of the things to add to my "work" agenda on BeBe for this summer.
And any particular reason you want Rust Bullet? I would check their website and see if there is a physical location where they sell it near you.
- Thread starter
- #60
por15 has to be painted over. rust bullet i hear does not have to and i hear its a better product. I have to do my research. As far as the cad goes, well, i like to design stuff so thats pretty cool. I design a bunch of my own things, includign dh biking rigs and a bumper for my truck.
