truck will not idle and bucks under half throttle under 2000 rpm. (2 Viewers)

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i was quoted 150 plus depending on the amount of time spent on the darn thing.
Here is my latest bike design here. I have a number of things i want to design in mind for the 60. Just need to get a proper welder.

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here is abike i actually built and ofcourse the steel bumper i designed for the fj cruiser.
 
the last pic shows the bumper while in the proto stages. we have since adjusted the design and put holes for lights in it and a winch mount.

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Quick update. I have picked up the manifolds from the machine shop. Best 75 I ever spent. I then split them to replace gaskets and add the stainless insulator. They do not line up anymore when putting them together for obvious reasons. I am now bolting them to the block first then tightening the bolts between the two manifold. Is that the way to do it? I am also having major trouble getting the last bolt at the fire wall to grab threads. The manifolds are loose on the block at this stage. So I do have room for play. Can anyone give me some pointers? This one bolt is pissing me off. I really need to get her done. I miss driving the thing.
 
Ok so I finishd the truck. Still will not idle. Runs great now, but no idle. What gives?. Everything is new evrywhere. All new vacuum hoses all new fuel pump, filter everything. What am I missing? Could the timing be off.? There is still an audible hiss under throttle. Also at operating temp. The choke kills the engine. Before no. I did resurface the manifolds. What should I look for next?
 
Well you can check the timing and see what is going on but if it won't hold idle you will have a hard time doing it.

What about the carb, you sure that it is not gunked up or anything? Technically you should have changed the gasket out between the two manifolds then had them machined and I bet they are off and that is your hiss you are hearing.

If it won't idle then there may be a fuel starvation issue so maybe start there and ensure that there is fuel in the sight glass.. Go through and adjust the idle speed per the FSM and do the "Lean Drop"... But before you do that I would seriously check the manifold to see if there is a leak.
 
Well you can check the timing and see what is going on but if it won't hold idle you will have a hard time doing it.

What about the carb, you sure that it is not gunked up or anything? Technically you should have changed the gasket out between the two manifolds then had them machined and I bet they are off and that is your hiss you are hearing.

If it won't idle then there may be a fuel starvation issue so maybe start there and ensure that there is fuel in the sight glass.. Go through and adjust the idle speed per the FSM and do the "Lean Drop"... But before you do that I would seriously check the manifold to see if there is a leak.

Actually I realized that th gaskets betwe the manifolds should have been changed befor machining when I took them apart after the fact. A nyhow, I bolted and tightened the manis to the head first so I don't know if it is nicly sealed. I will try now to see if I hqve enogh fuel coming in. Keep everyone posted.
 
Also, I noticed a drastic change in power going uphill. It has lost it. I think a good percentage of the power is gone. I am thinking bad carb maybe. I really have to mash the throttle to make it up the hill now.
 
Well, the problem arose when i put brand new vacuum lines in the truck. Then i noticed the ac idle up was hacked for full time so the truck would idle around 1k at all times. Then i resurfaced the manifolds and put un brand new gaskets everywhere. She starts right up. Runs beautifull under load but will not hold idle. I will check for fuel in the sight glass. Also i am thinking about rebuilding the carb myself as well. I am not sure what it is. I thought i fixed the darn thing.
 
i just posted in the classified wanted section a new thread. i am looking for a stock carb that i can rebuild while i keep driving the truck with the current issue at hand. if anyone has a spare and they want to sell, please let me know. thanks.
 
Mongoose,
I'm a rookie but I read through you post and didn't see anyone mention the fuel cut off solenoid.

In this post: https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/57153-im-finally-driving.html
"After I installed my carb, I tested my fuel cut off solenoid buy turning the ignition to the ON position, taking the little green plug out of the top of the carb, and plugging it in while listening for a clicking noise to come out of the carb as I plugged it back in. If you don't hear a click, then it is broken and your truck will not idle until you get a new one."

Plus he has good advice on re-installing the manifold.

Hope this helps,
 
Ok so I am asking the community for help again. I reminded myslef to check for fuel in the sight glass as per sugestions and its dead in the middle of the glass. I then proceeded to check the idle mixture screws and they were both off factory settings by a couple turns, including the one that's supposed to be sealed under the metal cover. Returning them to factory makes the truck as bad to keep running as before resurfac ing the manifolds. What gives? Too little air or fuel? I did have flames blowing out the carb when I was trying to rev it. I bought a used carb from a fellow member to rebuild. I am hoping its the carb cause I am running out of options here. Anyone have any ideas?
 
Ok you really shouldnt mess with the Fuel Mixture screw (the one under the metal protector) until the truck is running properly. From what I have read from JimC the carb is usually happiest at 4-5 turns out from bottoming out. From there you should be adjusting everything per the LEAN DROP method. I think the FSM says two turns for the Fuel mixture screw but that ends up being to lean.
 
The po messed with the screws. I just reverted them to factory spec as per fsm numbers. I just came back from the garage now and guess what. I found the hissing problem. Upon trying to start the truck to seeif it makes a difference if I turn the screws a couple turns I kept hearing this hissing I've heard ever since. I went to check again and found the air rail to have a pin hole in it. I then pressed on it a bit and the hole got larger. Its all rotted out. I am assuming there are more of these holes in the air rail so that's where the hissing comes from. Looks as though that may cause my problem since it draws more air than it should. Anyone have one of these laying around from their desmog? Let me know. Thanks.
 
Ah well that sounds like a pretty good indicator right there.. I will have mine attached with my desmog. If I can get a free weekend to finish pulling that you are welcome to it. The caveat is that I dont know when said weekend will be.
 
Mongoose,
I'm a rookie but I read through you post and didn't see anyone mention the fuel cut off solenoid.

In this post: https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/57153-im-finally-driving.html
"After I installed my carb, I tested my fuel cut off solenoid buy turning the ignition to the ON position, taking the little green plug out of the top of the carb, and plugging it in while listening for a clicking noise to come out of the carb as I plugged it back in. If you don't hear a click, then it is broken and your truck will not idle until you get a new one."

Plus he has good advice on re-installing the manifold.

Hope this helps,

thanks for posting, the ics was one of the first things i checked when the problem arose.
 
here is the air rail. that hole was pin sized. even smaller, i could barely notice it. the hissing was/is a lot more audible than that, so i am assuming there are more of these in the air rail. i am now thinking to just desmog the thing and call it a day. sugestions? i want to keep my hac. i did find a very good thread for a desmog with hac remaining but his truck has ac and i don't, so i'd have to figure out what to do with some of the ports that he has his ac idle up hooked to. i'll do some extensive searching.

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For some reason I thought you were in an Emissions area. If not, then at this point a desmog may be the best option if you don't want to try and find another air rail. I have desmogged and kept my HAC but I do have AC so that would be a little different then your setup. If you look through my thread you will see the link to my desmog thread, really it took about 2 1/2 days overall and the truck has been great ever since.

Also, if you look in the link in my sig, you will see the JimC Desmog a 60 document, that is something you will need. Word to the wise, go through the document while looking at your engine, learn where everything is as of now, start spraying bolts down before hand, and create a list of the things you will need and what they are for. You will thank yourself in the end for less frustration.
 
For some reason I thought you were in an Emissions area. If not, then at this point a desmog may be the best option if you don't want to try and find another air rail. I have desmogged and kept my HAC but I do have AC so that would be a little different then your setup. If you look through my thread you will see the link to my desmog thread, really it took about 2 1/2 days overall and the truck has been great ever since.

Also, if you look in the link in my sig, you will see the JimC Desmog a 60 document, that is something you will need. Word to the wise, go through the document while looking at your engine, learn where everything is as of now, start spraying bolts down before hand, and create a list of the things you will need and what they are for. You will thank yourself in the end for less frustration.

i have that document. i also have pictures that i printed of a fellow member's desmog who kept the hac. he has everything marked and referenced. i wanted to jkeep the truck as close to factory as i could but looks like i might have to desmog. i will seriously look into it. thanks for your advice.
 

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