- Thread starter
- #21
the boosters good as well. I don't know what came over the truck. it must be pissed at me about not starting work on the rust! it drives me crazy.
truck will not idle and bucks under half throttle under 2000 rpm.
- Thread starter mongoose2231
- Start date
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Man I am having this exact problem. I feel your pain sir. I'm gonna trouble shoot this weekend and tear apart if necessary.
- Thread starter
- #23
I hope you can find out what the problem is because it looks like i am getting nowhere. What is funny is that it idled just fine until a day after the vacuum hose replacement. probably just pure coincidence or perhaps the improved vacuum now caused some valve or something to clog up.
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There may be a problem inside the dissy. The disy cap ventilation is diconnected, which will destroy the dissy in a year or two.
The vac hoses that are tee-d on the carb should not be. The top front vac can is the AC idle up. It should NOT be connected to full time vacuum with the choke opener. For now just run the stock hose routing to the choke opener and leave the AC idle up disconnected.
To determine if the problem is definitely a lack of idle fuel, get an aerosol can of flammable spray carb cleaner to use as a tester. With the air cleaner lid off, start the engine and spray carb cleaner in the throat of the carb as the engine tries to die.
If the engine can be kept running by pulsing 'fuel' (gumout) into the carb , then the problem is indeed a lack of fuel.
If the engine dies when gumout is squirted in the carb then it's either already drowning in fuel, or it has another problem (compression, ignition).
The vac hoses that are tee-d on the carb should not be. The top front vac can is the AC idle up. It should NOT be connected to full time vacuum with the choke opener. For now just run the stock hose routing to the choke opener and leave the AC idle up disconnected.
To determine if the problem is definitely a lack of idle fuel, get an aerosol can of flammable spray carb cleaner to use as a tester. With the air cleaner lid off, start the engine and spray carb cleaner in the throat of the carb as the engine tries to die.
If the engine can be kept running by pulsing 'fuel' (gumout) into the carb , then the problem is indeed a lack of fuel.
If the engine dies when gumout is squirted in the carb then it's either already drowning in fuel, or it has another problem (compression, ignition).
- Thread starter
- #25
Hey Jim, thanks for the input. I was actually sending you an email and when i came in here i noticed your reply. I still sent you an email. What is the dissy cap supposed to be connected to? Is it any of those red capped nipples on that white device on the pass side? I am completely clueless. I have been looking at diagrams to perhaps bring the truck back to factory setup. The ruck has no A/C, it never had one. I think it was bought as such when new. I will try the carp cleaner procedure tonight. Hope it answers some questions.
- Thread starter
- #26
after searching the forum i found out how to properly connect the dissy and how to properly route the vacuum lines. Still no change. I have yet to spray carb cleaner in the carb to see if it makes a difference. will keep posting as i make progress, if i ever fix this problem.
I had a similar problem with mine. What happens when the choke is partially pulled out? Does it idle any better or worse?
- Thread starter
- #28
i also came to the conclusion that the ac idle up was connected to the choke opener to help the truck idle. i bet it was a temp fix by previous owner as the truck mightn't have idled properly. I guess that might have caused a problem or two in the long run. I have now disconnected the ac idle up, since the truck does not have air conditioning and as it turns out i have omitted replacing the 3 small vac lines from the 3 pronged "filter" on top of intake manifold. one of them was rather loose and seemed to have a little play while on the nipple. will try starting and seeing if it made any changes. cheers
- Thread starter
- #29
No, the choke does not make any difference. So what gives?
- Thread starter
- #30
OI think I found the problem. The hissing sound which was priorly nonexistent seems to come from the intake manifold gasket. Too much stuff to take off the motor now but I will take care of it in the weeknd. I hope this will solve my problem. I also have an exhaust leak at the manifold as well.
- Thread starter
- #31
Ordered new gasket form Toyota. Hopefully will have it in by end of next week. Also have a new gas pump and filter just to freshen up the system. Unfortunately it has to wait a little longer to get fixed as my "Swiss cheese" (read toyo pickup 22r) has taken a dump and needs a head gasket replacement. Will do that first this weekend since it's my wood getter and snow plow etc mobile. lol. Keep you all posted on the issue, I hope that it is the gasket as I've come to conclude.
- Thread starter
- #32
So after finally finishing the HG replacement on my 86 PU, (that went well) I finally started tearing into my Land Cruiser. I took the carb off, and I am expecting to see a bad intake gasket between the block and manifold. Hopefully, replacing the gasket will fix my idle problem. Will keep everyone posted on the progress. Here are some pictures.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Hopefully you labeled what went where and good luck with the diagnosis.
- Thread starter
- #34
I documented everything with pictures. Hopefully I'll be able to put it all back together.
- Thread starter
- #35
ok, so I spent a couple hours last night trying to get the truck done prior to the snow storm we have coming. All buttoned up, key in ignition starts right up even after sitting for more than a month, still WILL NOT HOLD THE IDLE. What gives? Can someone help me out with some insights. I do hear a hissing sound. All vacuum lines have been replaced. Brake booster's fine. Idle solenoid is fine. New intake gasket installed. WHAT IS THERE THAT I CAN DO THO MAKE THIS BUGGER IDLE? Any help is greatly appreciated.
- Thread starter
- #36
still no results
After some debating with a friend I have decided to dismantle the intake/ exhaust manifolds and check them for warpage and have them resurfaced. It seems that the gasket has been done befroe and sealant was used. Any sugestions?
After some debating with a friend I have decided to dismantle the intake/ exhaust manifolds and check them for warpage and have them resurfaced. It seems that the gasket has been done befroe and sealant was used. Any sugestions?
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Do not dismantle (separate) the intake & exhaust unless necessary.
Have the manifold pair machined flat and boltholes spotfaced. Reinstall with FelPro graphlex gasket. Done.
Have the manifold pair machined flat and boltholes spotfaced. Reinstall with FelPro graphlex gasket. Done.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
What JimC said... take the manifold off, put it on a flat surface and use some valve running guides to see if there is warpage. From there take it AS ONE PIECE to a machine shop and have it machined/resurfaced. Be absolutely sure that they do not separate them.
Did you ever check your current vacuum lines to see if any are cracked? Since you are getting the manifold resurfaced/machined it may be worthwhile to just replace all the vacuum lines with fresh stuff. Boostcontroller.com or McMaster-Carr are cheapest places to get Bulk line (need 3mm and 6mm - 5mm can be used in place of the 6mm) and will probably run you about $50 for the line. With as much work as you put into it I would do this just for piece of mind, taking one hose at a time off and matching/cutting the new stuff (with about 1/4" to 1/2" extra for shrinkage).
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Valve running guide?
- Thread starter
- #40
Yes the maniflds hav to b machined together. I hav replaced every vacuum line already. I hope that resurfacing them fixes my problm.
